RamDodgeSam

The 3rd gen in my sig is taking me on a 3000 mile round trip soon. It had gauges at one point but they were removed before I purchased the truck.

The exhaust manifold is drilled and tapped for pyro probes in two locations. One between #5 and #6 and one between #2 and #3 (assuming its 1-6 front to back). Why the two? Should I use both and will they average out a reading for one gauge or will I need two to use both. End goal is one gauge so if I have to I'll be using only one probe location.

There is an inline fuel gauge located forward of the pump I guess to just check idle pressure because it does no good while driving.

thinking of using a boost bolt for boost gauge. good/bad?


I'll be hauling a trailer and load that is probably around 2 tons so I'm not too worried about trans temp. Just want to make sure nothing gets out of line with the engine. suggestions?

soulezoo

First... if you were all stock I'd say no worries...

Since you are far from it, yes, you need them.

The best place to put a pyro is at the collector, pre-turbo. Since you are already tapped, you'll find yourself using the one closest the firewall (between 5-6). Largely because the pyro leads are not that long!

The theory is that 5-6 are the hottest cylinders due to being the furthest from the intake horn. I have found on my engine that #2 is consistently hotter. Go figure.

Boost bolts are just fine to use. No worries there.

C Schomer

I silver soldered a 1/8"FPT brass fitting onto the head of one of the manifold cover bolts and drilled a hole thru it. Craig

kerry.king

I used a boost bolt from genos on my 01 & worked flawlessly. If you only want one gauage, westach makes a nice combo boost/pyro

CRToney

My guess is that they had a drive pressure gauge possibly in the one hole and pyro in the other. Yes get gauges !

RamDodgeSam

Thanks for the input. Unfortunately I won't be able to install gauges before the first leg of the trip. I'm ordering some to be sent to the destination.

The trailer is a lot smaller than I thought - it's a single motorcycle enclosed trailer. It's narrower and shorter than the truck. I'm taking I-20 from west texas to SC, which flat most of the way and I'll have a total drop in elevation of 2800ft, not to say I won't be climbing a little.

My thoughts were to keep it under 70mph on the flats and let the truck slow down to the tops of hills instead of accelerating up.

I'm not sure what to set the smarty to in order to keep the heat down. I'm leery of setting it back to stock because it runs kind of crappy on that software. What torque and timing settings would y'all suggest?

Thanks for the input so far.

RamDodgeSam

I got gauges and installed them last week. Man those autometers are bright. Ended up putting a 5kohm potentiometer between power source and gauges so I could get the voltage down so the factory dash light dimmer would actually dim the gauges. Couldn't find a manifold bolt that went all the way through that was in a reasonable position so I just went with tapping the intake elbow just before the grid heater. Forgot to tighten the rubber boot on the test drive so I was blowing grey smoke everywhere until I figured it out. O_o yeah

First thing I noticed is boost is pretty much non existent cruising below 60mph. It's around 4 or 5psi at 70mph and 650-700F.

It takes a bit to get spooled up under 1/4 throttle acceleration. It will make about 40-45psi no problem if I get on it. I haven't seen EGT over 1000F yet but I haven't pushed it too hard.

soulezoo

Souns like you're golden.

With the route travelled and the smallness of the trailer, I wouldn't worry too much about the smarty setting. Leave it where you normally do. You are watching the egts, so there shouldn't be an issue.