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Rims...Total confusion....Need help.....

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Old 09-28-2005, 09:01 PM
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Question Rims...Total confusion....Need help.....

I would like to replace the rims on my truck with a wider rim (To hold my new 315's) but I am unsure of what I need. Most of the web sites I find for rims are so confusing.
What is the bolt pattern on my 8 lugs? How about the back spacing? Any recomendations?
I do not haul heavy loads and I do not need anything Fancy (As in Expensive$$$$)
Old 09-28-2005, 09:05 PM
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You need an 8lug on a 6.5" bolt circle lug pattern. The wheel should have +40mm offset, regardless of backspacing.

A 17x8.5 can handle a 315 and works better for fit, but a 10" width works better for tire wear.
Old 09-28-2005, 09:07 PM
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check out the h2 takeoff threads,,,you can get them cheap if you look,,,around 150 to 200 bucks already machined out.......they are a perfect match for 315`s ..............bama
Old 09-28-2005, 09:33 PM
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H-2's are for girls...... I saw that on the license plate frame of an H-1.
Old 09-29-2005, 04:19 AM
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Yup. I've got the H2s now and my slight rub is gone from when I had the 315s on stock rims. I kind of like the H2s w/ the Dodge center caps...
Old 09-29-2005, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by HOHN
You need an 8lug on a 6.5" bolt circle lug pattern. The wheel should have +40mm offset, regardless of backspacing.

A 17x8.5 can handle a 315 and works better for fit, but a 10" width works better for tire wear.
Hohn, what do you mean by +40mm offset?
Old 09-29-2005, 12:49 PM
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be carefull on offset numbers as they only apply to a certain rim width. offset is a calculation bassed on the with of the rim and the certerline fo the wheel. so a rim that is ten inches with 5" of backspacing would be 0 offset. now if you have 6" of backspacke you would have a 25.4mm(1") offset.

people will tell you you need X amount of offset but if they don't tell you the width of the wheel it applies to you can still make an error. 10" with 40mm offset has different backspace than 9" with 40MM offset.

if is basically a math problem. you will want the same abount of backspace as the stock rim. the stock rim is only 8" if you upsize the rim to say 9" you will need a bit different offset.

go to www.discoundtiredirect.com and plug in you vehicle it will give you wheels to fit. look at the offset and width number on those.
Old 09-29-2005, 01:06 PM
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Right, offset is a measure from the centerline of the wheel to whereever the hub is. A zero offset means the hub is mounted in the middle of the wheel. What I don't understand is why people think sticking with the factory offset is ideal when I would think a zero offset is always preferred from a pure performance standpoint. It should in theory impart the least stress to steering components (least leverage). I understand fitment issues need to be considered but when running a larger tire than stock I'd want less backspacing to clear the control arms (less offset also, which should be better). Of course fender flares are needed. The only thing I hear is that you may then rub on the rear part of the front fender.
Old 09-29-2005, 09:49 PM
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we found some ion 17x10 on ebay turns out they come from waco not far from where we live, i digress.most wheels with different offset especially those wider recommend a leveling kit or lift. we have a leveling kit and no problem with out 4x4 one ton.
Old 09-30-2005, 08:59 AM
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I'm looking at buying 20x9 AR Wolverines from a friend. They have 5" backspace. Will this work with a 2005 Ram 2500.?

Bob
Old 09-30-2005, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Berak
Right, offset is a measure from the centerline of the wheel to whereever the hub is. A zero offset means the hub is mounted in the middle of the wheel. What I don't understand is why people think sticking with the factory offset is ideal when I would think a zero offset is always preferred from a pure performance standpoint. It should in theory impart the least stress to steering components (least leverage). I understand fitment issues need to be considered but when running a larger tire than stock I'd want less backspacing to clear the control arms (less offset also, which should be better). Of course fender flares are needed. The only thing I hear is that you may then rub on the rear part of the front fender.
the reason people want the factory offset is to keep the tire from rubbing.

if you push you tire farther away from the vehicle, when you trun the wheels the tire is closer to the bumber on one side and closer to the body on the other. IE if you turn you wheels right, the drivers side tire will be closer to the bumber and the passenger side tire will be closer to the body. Now when get the tire closer to the bumber/bodyunderfull articulations you can get rubbing.

this can be compensated for with more lift. I went with 9.5 wheel so I got 6" lift where if I had gone with the correct offset 8" wheel or stayed factory I proalby could have ran a 4.5-5 inch lift.

short story long the more bacspace you have the farther away you will be from the fender and bumper. too much backspace and you tires will rub on you control arms, etc.

offset should really be optimized. the most backspace you can run without rubbing will you you the best tire clearance.

http://www.discounttiredirect.com/di...vid=007820&bp=

these are the specs on my wheels. they barely touch the control arms at full lock. mostly due to the sidewall design of the toyo Mt's. if they were set at 0 offset though I think I would be rubbing though. that 1" of offset makes a big deal.
Old 09-30-2005, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by hognutz
be carefull on offset numbers as they only apply to a certain rim width. offset is a calculation bassed on the with of the rim and the certerline fo the wheel. so a rim that is ten inches with 5" of backspacing would be 0 offset. now if you have 6" of backspacke you would have a 25.4mm(1") offset.

people will tell you you need X amount of offset but if they don't tell you the width of the wheel it applies to you can still make an error. 10" with 40mm offset has different backspace than 9" with 40MM offset.

if is basically a math problem. you will want the same abount of backspace as the stock rim. the stock rim is only 8" if you upsize the rim to say 9" you will need a bit different offset.

go to www.discoundtiredirect.com and plug in you vehicle it will give you wheels to fit. look at the offset and width number on those.

Actually, it's sort of the opposite. You want to keep OFFSET constant, and adjust BACKSPACING as the wheel width changes.

Keeping offset constant ensures that the load on the wheels is centered over the same point, regardless of wheel size. This ensures that bearings, hubs, etc are loaded in the way they were designed by the OEM.

So what you want to do is maintain OEM offset spec on any new wheel, regardless of size. This will also help to give you maximum tire clearance. On our trucks, if the wheel is too far out, it will cause a tire rub on the fender liner. If it's too far in, it will rub on the suspension trailing arms.

Example: Your OEM offset for a 3rd gen wheel is +40mm. For a second gen, it's +20mm.

So say you have a 2nd gen with the 16x8 wheels like I do (w/ +20MM offset). You want to go up to a 16x10 wheel. Therefore, your new 16x10 wheels will have to have 1" more backspacing in order to maintain the +20mm offset.

So, while you are correct about the relationship between offset and backspacing, OFFSET, not BACKSPACING-- is what you should strive to maintain as close to OEM spec as possible.

Note: deviating from OEM offset slightly will not cause catastrophic bearing failure. If you go 20mm in either direction, it's probably not going to have any negative effect, aside from fitment.

jh
Old 09-30-2005, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by HOHN
Actually, it's sort of the opposite. You want to keep OFFSET constant, and adjust BACKSPACING as the wheel width changes.

Keeping offset constant ensures that the load on the wheels is centered over the same point, regardless of wheel size. This ensures that bearings, hubs, etc are loaded in the way they were designed by the OEM.

So what you want to do is maintain OEM offset spec on any new wheel, regardless of size. This will also help to give you maximum tire clearance. On our trucks, if the wheel is too far out, it will cause a tire rub on the fender liner. If it's too far in, it will rub on the suspension trailing arms.

Example: Your OEM offset for a 3rd gen wheel is +40mm. For a second gen, it's +20mm.

So say you have a 2nd gen with the 16x8 wheels like I do (w/ +20MM offset). You want to go up to a 16x10 wheel. Therefore, your new 16x10 wheels will have to have 1" more backspacing in order to maintain the +20mm offset.

So, while you are correct about the relationship between offset and backspacing, OFFSET, not BACKSPACING-- is what you should strive to maintain as close to OEM spec as possible.

Note: deviating from OEM offset slightly will not cause catastrophic bearing failure. If you go 20mm in either direction, it's probably not going to have any negative effect, aside from fitment.

jh
good luck fitting a 10" rim with factory offset. you will have to deviate a bit. in my case I have about 20mm of offset. I ahve not chioce. the tires would hit the control arms at 40mm.
Old 10-02-2005, 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by hognutz
the reason people want the factory offset is to keep the tire from rubbing.

if you push you tire farther away from the vehicle, when you trun the wheels the tire is closer to the bumber on one side and closer to the body on the other. IE if you turn you wheels right, the drivers side tire will be closer to the bumber and the passenger side tire will be closer to the body. Now when get the tire closer to the bumber/bodyunderfull articulations you can get rubbing.

this can be compensated for with more lift. I went with 9.5 wheel so I got 6" lift where if I had gone with the correct offset 8" wheel or stayed factory I proalby could have ran a 4.5-5 inch lift.

short story long the more bacspace you have the farther away you will be from the fender and bumper. too much backspace and you tires will rub on you control arms, etc.

offset should really be optimized. the most backspace you can run without rubbing will you you the best tire clearance.

http://www.discounttiredirect.com/di...vid=007820&bp=

these are the specs on my wheels. they barely touch the control arms at full lock. mostly due to the sidewall design of the toyo Mt's. if they were set at 0 offset though I think I would be rubbing though. that 1" of offset makes a big deal.
I understand the fitment issues. Those asside, my point is that you want the least offset possible. I disagree with the conventional wisdom as explained by hognutz above. I believe that less offset creates less stress on axle components, and oem hardware is designed simply to meet those stresses. How can less offset cause more wear? There is no magic hear, it's physics.

My 35" tires rub the control arms with my oem wheels. I want a tire with a little less backspace to clear them. These would also have less offset and I believe actually create less wear on axle components. Rubbing on the fender may become an issue, I don't know yet.
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