3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (5.9L Only) Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for third generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories. THIS IS FOR THE 5.9L ONLY!

Is this realistic?

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Old 10-31-2010 | 10:02 PM
  #1  
075point9's Avatar
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From: LaCrete, Alberta
Is this realistic?

I've put together my dream mod list and what I hope the end result would be. My sig should tell you what my experience level is so please be nice.

-Diesel Power Source S400 series twins
-CFM+ Intake horn (for looks more than anything)
-Cat deleted and AeroTurbine muffler

-Smarty Jr.
-DDP 50 hp nozzles
-Airdog
-Snow Performance Stage 2 H20/Meth

-Goerend 48 RE with TC and billet input shaft
-ARP studs (necessary with twins?)
-Mag-Hytecs all around (trans, both diffs)
-Superlift traction bars (open to suggestions on this especially)
-Pyro,boost, and trans temp gauges in an a-pillar pod

Should come to $13'500 (ballpark) according to internet prices.

600 rwhp
23+ mpg (highway)
Stock driving manners, slightly louder than stock exhaust, and limited smoke.
Reliability would be my main concern, if it doesn't quite make 600 that's ok. I want to tow 10'000 lbs regularly and more if necessary. Also there's a couple of blown Cobalts and a stacked Dmax in my tiny town that have an attitude problem...

So tell me if I'm way off anywhere and any suggestions/hints/tips (especially from my fellow Albertans) would be appreciated. Thanks for reading.
Old 10-31-2010 | 10:30 PM
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From: Claxton, GA
You will need a Smarty Sr for adjustablility and the 23 MPG is not likely especially with the 33" tires. Studs and valve springs will be necessary. On a side note, you will only be able to pull at around the 400-450 hp level due to cooling issues.
Old 11-01-2010 | 06:55 AM
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Yeah, if your gonna go that far you'll need the SMARTY Sr. As far as the MPG, I'd say realistically 19 to 19.5 driving it like a old man...
Old 11-01-2010 | 09:07 AM
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I'd swap the CFM Plus for the AFE Bladerunner ..... especially running twins. Same money as the CFM but it's not composite and I'd worry a bit about heat and boost pressure over time with it.



Kris
Old 11-01-2010 | 09:15 AM
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075point9's Avatar
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Ok I wasn't sure if the Jr would do it, I wouldn't hesitate to get a Sr.

i can do 23+ mpg ON THE HIGHWAY now, didn't think that would go down... but that's minor.

Spooler: when you say cooling issues do you mean egts or engine coolant temp (i realize the two are linked)? What could i do about it?
Also I believe I mentioned head studs if thats what you meant by studs.

HMX-1: I'll look into the AFE unit.

Last edited by 075point9; 11-01-2010 at 09:28 AM. Reason: i was rudely interrupted
Old 11-01-2010 | 05:27 PM
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075point9's Avatar
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sorry i dont have 33 tires see sig for the real size.
Old 11-01-2010 | 08:39 PM
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Yes, engine coolant temp. Nothing you can do about it but take your foot off the go pedal or detune for pulling. You will also want to back the timing down to the lowest setting or risk melting a piston. Water only will give a small margin of safety.Yes to studs being head studs.
Old 11-01-2010 | 09:10 PM
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Gotcha thanks spooler.
Old 11-02-2010 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by HMX-1
I'd swap the CFM Plus for the AFE Bladerunner ..... especially running twins. Same money as the CFM but it's not composite and I'd worry a bit about heat and boost pressure over time with it.



Kris
Left Coast Diesel a while back did dyno tests comparing a number of intakes. CFM+ was most effective and AFE was actually least effective. A close second was GDP. As I recall, they tried 5 different intake horns. Before someone asks, yes it was back to back on the dyno, same truck, same day, same tuning and etc.

I've run the CFM+ now, two models, the basic and the one with ports, for 2 yrs +, seeing as much as 100lbs of boost, and no failures of any sort seeing the extreme heat of AZ (115-120*)in the summer and Montana cold (-5*) in the winter... I am not sure what else you could ask of it.

I guess my point is, other than the nitrous backfire on a ford on the dyno a couple of years back, I've not seen credible evidence of failure due to it being a composite. I don't want to seem like I am pushing CFM because I use it either, I don't really care.

If an individual isn't comfortable with it being plastic and wants a metal horn, it is all well and good. However, I just want to keep facts out there and not hyperbole.
Old 11-02-2010 | 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by soulezoo
Left Coast Diesel a while back did dyno tests comparing a number of intakes. CFM+ was most effective and AFE was actually least effective. A close second was GDP. As I recall, they tried 5 different intake horns. Before someone asks, yes it was back to back on the dyno, same truck, same day, same tuning and etc.

I've run the CFM+ now, two models, the basic and the one with ports, for 2 yrs +, seeing as much as 100lbs of boost, and no failures of any sort seeing the extreme heat of AZ (115-120*)in the summer and Montana cold (-5*) in the winter... I am not sure what else you could ask of it.

I guess my point is, other than the nitrous backfire on a ford on the dyno a couple of years back, I've not seen credible evidence of failure due to it being a composite. I don't want to seem like I am pushing CFM because I use it either, I don't really care.

If an individual isn't comfortable with it being plastic and wants a metal horn, it is all well and good. However, I just want to keep facts out there and not hyperbole.

That's actually some great information. I was thinking about getting one of my '06 but was a little apprehensive about them.

Thanks for sharing ...... and I might just have to get one now because of your post.




Kris
Old 11-02-2010 | 05:08 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by soulezoo
Left Coast Diesel a while back did dyno tests comparing a number of intakes. CFM+ was most effective and AFE was actually least effective. A close second was GDP. As I recall, they tried 5 different intake horns. Before someone asks, yes it was back to back on the dyno, same truck, same day, same tuning and etc.

I've run the CFM+ now, two models, the basic and the one with ports, for 2 yrs +, seeing as much as 100lbs of boost, and no failures of any sort seeing the extreme heat of AZ (115-120*)in the summer and Montana cold (-5*) in the winter... I am not sure what else you could ask of it.

I guess my point is, other than the nitrous backfire on a ford on the dyno a couple of years back, I've not seen credible evidence of failure due to it being a composite. I don't want to seem like I am pushing CFM because I use it either, I don't really care.

If an individual isn't comfortable with it being plastic and wants a metal horn, it is all well and good. However, I just want to keep facts out there and not hyperbole.
Not to beat on them, but we did have a CFM intake blow on our dyno. A piece of it actually embedded in the foam on our shop cieling 20ft up. I cant find the picture of it now, but I posted it on here about keeping hoods closed during a dyno run.
Old 11-02-2010 | 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by kantdrive55
Not to beat on them, but we did have a CFM intake blow on our dyno. A piece of it actually embedded in the foam on our shop cieling 20ft up. I cant find the picture of it now, but I posted it on here about keeping hoods closed during a dyno run.
were you able to do any comparison at all ??
Old 11-03-2010 | 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by browndg
were you able to do any comparison at all ??
No we were just doing a dyno run with a customer when it blew. I do believe he did get warranty on it though.
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