KVD

If so many people are makin this big horsepower on a triple disk TC, why does ATS have the 5 star TC??

I only ask because there on ebay right now for 1,380 with a 380 core charge. Thats about the price of most triple disk converters so would it be worth it to go with the ATS??

I only plan to do the TC/VB/input maybe but all I want it 400-450 no towin, drag racin or sled pullin so do I need somethin like the 5 start?? You think with a good TC/VB my factory trans with 56k would hold or do I need to rebuild it. It's had a pretty easy life, no towin no chips its still all stock.

nfsommer

how many hours should a place charge to do a vb and converter and "the little parts" on a 4x4 truck?

Luvnacumns

So what does a full out bullet proof tranny cost?

SHane

acook

I know what you mean, at first i wanted a low 13 second truck that was a daily driver...now i have a daily driver that runs a 12.3 on 35's. My ATS tranny is holding well, I will even be towing out a 6.0 to the vegas event on the 5th all the way from pueblo, co.

XLR8R

Whatchya towing the Ferd out there for?

nfsommer

5500 from what im told

RamWheelsBy4

I would think that is the bare minimum. I have more than that in mine not including the Laminated Flexplate. My three billet shafts alone cost just over $2,200.

jwb600

well I believe I have 6800 in mine. it is an hts with billet shafts, suncoast converter, flexplate, then I bought a deep pan later on. it was also shipped down here cheap and installed by a local place. its a ton of money but worth in the end. other guys had their trannies do dumb things on the dyno mine did great. I basically have the same trans as luken, just in an 06. theres ways to keep costs down. I could have had something that would hold power for probably 3500 in upgrades. I just didnt want to do it again.

jgiachino

Here's my thought process for my situation, and i'm truely clueless on a built trans as i've never even driven one....

- 06 has 8k miles on it....so trans should be in really good shape....so didnt really want to trade in on a rebuilt / higher mileage transmission

- Fred Swanson (very reputible DTT Builder) is within 10 miles of my house....i know the installer is very important, so this just makes sense for me...

My Goals: Daily Driver that puts the power down w/o being offensive (so wife can still drive it)...dont tow heavy or frequently (but dont want to give up towing capabiity), dont race or pull at the strip....but would like to do a 10psi boosted 4x4 launch for the rare occasions that a new tundra,...edited by admin....dont have much more than $4k to spend, other than the occasional stop light drag, i'm not very hard on the truck and i do have self control (havent gone above smarty level 3 in almost a year)....power goals are approx 450ish hp with smarty only...will add gdp392 and sps 6280 in the future to help the smarty...

Ok, so i was planning on getting the below from DTT:

TC
VB
Billet Input
Flex Plate
Servo / Accumulator
3rd Gear Clutches
3rd Gear Apply Lever
few other small parts
Complete inspection, and some personalized fine tuning

Later, plan on adding Output Shaft and Controller for 2nd gear lockup...as i believe they're easier to add after the fact.....i'd love the intermediate, but i'm at my spending limit....and i can sneak these by the wife w/ o issue in the future... :-)

Low $4's on pricing, no shipping, core charges,....

My questions for the Built Tran's guru's
- Does my thought process make sense?
- How critical is the intermediate shaft? Is it a common failure on boosted launches? Can i realistically get by w/o it?
- Opinions on the DTT Controler? I like the thought of 2nd gear lockup just becasue when the trans is in lockup, the power's there and feels good
- Will something like this last w/o "having to do it again"?
- Any other thoughts?

jrussell

You're in the same exact situation as me, only you have a well known installer right next door! I would go with DTT just for that reason alone.

I can't find anyone in or around Salt Lake City known to do good high performance work on 48RE's.

The intermediate shaft is a tough one though. It seems like the stock ones are ok doing 5-10psi 4x4 boosted launches? I guess you can always just hope the output breaks instead!

RamWheelsBy4

I makes very good sense to me. Knowing the trans builder is a very key issue to me. Seems like that strategy would give you all the upgrade you need for what you want to do.

You know what you have and since you are not planning hard 4wd lauches at the track on a consistent basis you should be fine. But there is always that outside chance that you could still produce enough power to break something when that tundra clouds your better judgement. But that possibility exists for everyone at any upgrade level.

jwb600

I dont blame anybody for going with someone local. with the high costs of shipping you cant go wrong. the hts worked out for me. shipping costs were affordable. if I had more time I would have went to their shop to just have upgrades done also. I didnt plan on having the baddest trk in america or anything. I would say unless you plan to sled pull, drag race, etc. you dont need an intermediate shaft. I wanted to do mine one time and wanted it to last for a long time. I went the cheap route on another trk & it just was a hassle when the driveline would not handle the power

jwb600

I was told by a couple builders, heres what they said:
to hold power you need a:
converter/flexplate
upgraded valvebody
input shaft
most guys will add extra clutches to your stock clutches.
hts has a trk holding strong with a similar setup at 600hp & 35k miles and holding strong

jwb600

i dont have a wife to make mad. I spend what I want to so that was not an issue. It was alot of money, but any gear I choose to floor it, the transmission loves it and does great. the truck would not perform like it does without the built trans.

cquestad

Around 7k in mine...

But no stone was left unturned.