Real Differences Between Built Tranny & Upgraded Trans?
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Real Differences Between Built Tranny & Upgraded Trans?
What are the major differences between a TC/VB/FP/Input upgraded trans and a fully built one? I know there's the intermediate and output shafts that can also be done, but what about clutches and bands and other internal parts?
I was looking into upgrading mine with a TC/VB/FP/Input, but at that point it's not all that much more money to swap in a "built" rebuild ($3300 for those parts installed). Mine only has about 5k miles on it and I'm not too keen on swapping in an unknown rebuild...even coming from one of the big 4 or 5 it just seems weird.
Anyway, just wondering how the rest of my tranny will hold up with those other aftermarket parts installed and Smarty on #9? Dave Goerend said the stock '06 clutches were quality parts and should hold up, but I forgot to ask him about bands and other stuff.
I was looking into upgrading mine with a TC/VB/FP/Input, but at that point it's not all that much more money to swap in a "built" rebuild ($3300 for those parts installed). Mine only has about 5k miles on it and I'm not too keen on swapping in an unknown rebuild...even coming from one of the big 4 or 5 it just seems weird.
Anyway, just wondering how the rest of my tranny will hold up with those other aftermarket parts installed and Smarty on #9? Dave Goerend said the stock '06 clutches were quality parts and should hold up, but I forgot to ask him about bands and other stuff.
#2
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Depends on who's tranny you're talking about. John at Floor It changes to stronger clutches as well as does some machining to add clutches and also changes a couple different shims to tighten up some tolerences.
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I didn't realize Floor It did transmissions too. That sounds like it would hold some serious power.
Let's say the target is 500hp. Goerend and HTS both said TC/VB/FP/Input and a few other inexpensive misc parts woud hold fine with a relatively fresh trans. Neither mentioned doing any clutch or other upgrades, but I wasn't asking them about swapping in a rebuild either so maybe that's why.
At what point do further internal modifications become necessary? Opinions?
Let's say the target is 500hp. Goerend and HTS both said TC/VB/FP/Input and a few other inexpensive misc parts woud hold fine with a relatively fresh trans. Neither mentioned doing any clutch or other upgrades, but I wasn't asking them about swapping in a rebuild either so maybe that's why.
At what point do further internal modifications become necessary? Opinions?
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I'm sure with HTS they would send you the machined plates to add a clutch to the front, rear and overdrive packs. Dusty at HTS 05 Dodge still has stock clutches in it just one added to the front rear and overdrive packs and that truck is over 600hp
#5
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Depends on how you're going to drive it. I had 500hp with just a VB and TC and the misc. little parts you refer to. However, you can't get crazy with boosted launches at that point, but the internals will hold the power. John just had mine apart to do what I described above. The last clutch in the 3rd gear pack was a little worn, but he said that's normal and would probably look like that on a stock power truck. He changes the way 3rd gear applies and so that won't happen again. Also the 2nd gear band has been hot, but he said that has nothing to do with my power, just simply that it was hanging up for some reason and not letting go when 3rd was applying.
#6
I know DTT redoes the clutches, bands, drums, seals, machines parts out to add extra clutches, different materials on the bands and clutches, new steels, etc. I'd imagine the rest of the big guys replace the same parts but do it slightly differently.
#7
I just did my trans myself (tc,vb.fp.input,inter.output) with all goerand parts and spent alot of time on the phone with Dave. I had alot of the same questions about clutches and stuff.
what he told me was he would sell me anything I wanted but in his shop on the dyno the stock clutches held the same 800 hp as all the others, and that richard brown drives around every day on stock cluches.
so if its good enough for them thats all I needed to know
what he told me was he would sell me anything I wanted but in his shop on the dyno the stock clutches held the same 800 hp as all the others, and that richard brown drives around every day on stock cluches.
so if its good enough for them thats all I needed to know
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I just did my trans myself (tc,vb.fp.input,inter.output) with all goerand parts and spent alot of time on the phone with Dave. I had alot of the same questions about clutches and stuff.
what he told me was he would sell me anything I wanted but in his shop on the dyno the stock clutches held the same 800 hp as all the others, and that richard brown drives around every day on stock cluches.
so if its good enough for them thats all I needed to know
what he told me was he would sell me anything I wanted but in his shop on the dyno the stock clutches held the same 800 hp as all the others, and that richard brown drives around every day on stock cluches.
so if its good enough for them thats all I needed to know
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Don't forget DTT also will take care of the accumulator, solenoid, line valves, sealing washers etc, etc, etc. I have been in DTT,s shop and it is a tight in house operation. The founder is a respected active pro 1/4 mile veteran and his son keeps on keeping on. There are way more parts/details involved than a tc/vb/fp change to build a race/sled puller. Yes it cost big dollars but horsepower always has. Attention to detail in all the little parts adds up to winner results. A lot of... I should say, old farts like me, resent the fact that diesel horsepower is now a plug and play feature. We used to sweat it out getting 25 ponies out of a small block gasser let alone plugging in a down loader and putting 170+ through a stock diesel AUTO
#10
it took me and my uncle 10 or so hours but we wasted 2 or 3 trying to make some wrong parts work that ended up not working anyway.
I would not say it is an easy job you have to tear the trans completely apart to do the shafts. and that was a little scary.
I would not say it is an easy job you have to tear the trans completely apart to do the shafts. and that was a little scary.
#11
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HotRodDiesels did the complete tear down, all billet shafts, new and added clutch packs, machining to exact specs, magic pieces and other mumbo jumbo. Custom stall 3 disc TC, Suncoast Laminated Flexplate and TC lockup switch.
What I have in my case is very street/towing friendly shifting with no stock slush. And the difference is many hard 25+psi 4wd launches on 315s without any TC/Transmission issues.
What I have in my case is very street/towing friendly shifting with no stock slush. And the difference is many hard 25+psi 4wd launches on 315s without any TC/Transmission issues.
#13
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John, I've been told by experienced diesel draggers that boosted launches are very tough on the driveline - even that billet shafts don't like 10psi+...
In my experience, driveline shock is the real killer - so if the whole driveline is preloaded against the concrete/asphalt - how bad IS it on the hard parts?
Since you have many high-boost launches on your truck, any thoughts?
In my experience, driveline shock is the real killer - so if the whole driveline is preloaded against the concrete/asphalt - how bad IS it on the hard parts?
Since you have many high-boost launches on your truck, any thoughts?
#14
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John, I've been told by experienced diesel draggers that boosted launches are very tough on the driveline - even that billet shafts don't like 10psi+...
In my experience, driveline shock is the real killer - so if the whole driveline is preloaded against the concrete/asphalt - how bad IS it on the hard parts?
Since you have many high-boost launches on your truck, any thoughts?
In my experience, driveline shock is the real killer - so if the whole driveline is preloaded against the concrete/asphalt - how bad IS it on the hard parts?
Since you have many high-boost launches on your truck, any thoughts?
We spent a lot of time discussing what I wanted the truck to be able to do. Of course back then I thought 600rwhp and low 13s was about as far as a CR should go and still be reliable daily driver .
But I decided to have him do everything to the tc/transmission possible to make it bullet proof to start with. Michael has done his research and has a race build model that he is constantly tweaking for improvement. I know of 4 other full build tc/trans some with all billet and some not that he has done. None that I know of have had problems street or track. As far as all of the parts and pieces you would need to give him a call, my short term and long term memory is going .
With my tc/trans build hard boosted launches do not seem to be that hard on the drive train. As you stated the torque/power is pre-loaded to a large degree. I am around 580rwhp so there are many trucks now that have a lot more power to throw down and I am sure there is some point that the power will just be too much to safely handle. I have stock transfer case and all other axle drive train parts and so far they have held up fine. I worry more about breaking all four tires loose on launch and start hopping/cavitation. I have done this a few times and that is where I think I can break something before I can react.
I try to lauch at 20psi most of the time, lock the TC as soon as I shift to 2nd and leave it in 4hi until at the end. That usually gets low 1.8s 60', 12.7xs 1/4 ETs and 104-106mph trap speeds.
Oh well now I forgot what my point was.