Thanks for your help man!!

4" lift arms...I'll freek. Modern in Calgary did my lift. I'll have to do some measuring tomorrow. Again, thanks for the numbers.

I'll give them one more chance to make it right, if not, will obviously have to figure out a way to fix it. I don't really want to fork out money on a new lift, but if I have to, at least in the front, then I have to.

 

Let me know if you want a new front end kit. I get a good deal from North Shore Off Road in BC. They blow everyone in albertas price away. The only ones that came close was 4 Wheel performance in edmonton and they were still like 225 more than NSOR. Just some thought for you.

 

Cowhand...not to argue...but IMHO 3rd gens need more than 2nd's. Almost 100k now straight as an arrow.....

 

Understood.....but alot of caster is hard on ball joints. I recommend that folks start with as little as possible and increase caster until the problem goes away. No reason to go 5* when 3.5-4* resolves any issues. Most alignment shops offer at least a 30 day warranty, if you need more caster it shouldn't cost anything.

 

Good point...I have heard that wives tale too. It not hit me first hand though. Original OEM balljoints...must have got lucky!

I do agree...if 4 works, use it. Your steering will "feel" lighter at slow speeds.

 

He has 5.5* difference in cross castor adjustment! The drivers side is -3.5* and the passenger side is +2*. Something is really out of alignment if you need that much cross castor difference

 

Jeff, how do you read those brackets? Jeeps (well, TJ's anyway), use the same method, and it'd be really handy if I knew how to just look at the cambolts and tell the caster.

 

Good point.....I misread the post.

I hope you're not reading that off the cams....I don't know what the marks equate to but thet're not anywhere close to accurate. I don't think it's physically possible to get 5.5* cross caster in that axle, chances are those nice soft rubber bushings are mashed hard. If there is indeed 5.5* of cross caster in that axle, it's seriously tweaked. I guess it's possible that the axle C's aren't perfectly parallel, but then it wouldn't have driven right before the lift.

With the axle pushed forward into the sway bar links, I don't think Igor has the 4" arms. I would measure all 4 arms center to center and see if one is longer than the others....something obviously isn't right. Both cam bolts should be in roughly the same position.

 

Yeah, you're right, who knows what those marks realy mean. I was always told that each mark was 1 degree, but maybe that is not the case. Either way, like you said, they both should be adjusted roughly to the same position. That much or a difference from one side to the other means something is not right.

 

Sorry guys, I've been really busy with work over the last few days to do anything.

So went into the mud again today and measured my control arms. Looks like the measurements up there are what I got for my control arms, center/center of the bolts. So they should be the right, 6" arms.

Now looking at the cam settings on the lower arms, its obvious that the way the pass. side is setup, its biased to move the diff forward. So I'm thinking either my problems are:

Wrong caster settings indeed
Need a adj. track bar
Total junk lift and need a new one

I honestly don't want to buy a new lift if I don't have to.

If I mark where the current settings are, use a loader here to lift my truck by the frame, brake the pass. side bolts loose on the LCA at the diff, rotate the cams to match the drivers side and tighten, would this be ok to try? Or is it hopeless w/o an alignment machine?

I figured if all goes well I should be able to just return them to the original possition they are at now if stuff isn't working good. I have pavment close to here, so I can go try the truck out and see how it runs.

I apprecate all the help you guys are trying to give me!

Thanks guys,

Igor.

P.S. Maybe I should just get this to try? Anyone using one? What did it do/feel like?

http://www.thurenfabrication.com/3rdgentrackbar.html

 

Superlift has a fairly good reputation, so I'd be hesitant to say that the lift itself is junk. More likely it was installed improperly. Even the best lift will cause problems if it's not installed correctly.

I would try to set the passenger side cam bolt to as close to the same position as the driver's side as you can, then go from there.

 

Well, hope so.

Other then this problem, I can't say its given me any more grief.

Looking at the bump stops though, they look destroyed already. And the endlinks look a little whimpy.

Was wondering if anyknow knows what brands of either would be good to "upgrade"?

 

Best track bar you can buy....I've torture tested mine and it's still tight.

Try rotating your cam bolts to the same position, it's worth a try. Get it to a good alignment shop.

 

Hey guys.

Its been a while, but I finally got to do some stuff to this truck. Here is what I found:

Rotated pass. side cam bolts back, took it for a ride, better, came back and rotated it back some more to almost match the drivers side, much better. Can actually let the steering wheel go and truck goes pretty straight. I still say it pulls a bit more to the left then I would like, but at this point its good and almost great so am happy.

As far as the endlink, I think I have 2 choices here. The coil on the pass. side happends to sit right where the top endlink ends. So:

Choice 1: Rotate coil 'till the gap in the coilsprings is about 1/2 way up the top part of the endlink (IE endlink top is sitting where the gap in the coils is on the coil spring, insuring no contact when on bad bumps). I think this is why the drivers side has no issues as the way the coil sits the top of the endlink has nothing to hit.

Choice 2: pull the sway bar and slot the bushing holes, and pull it towards the front some more spacing the endlinks further out. I don't like this choice.

Can I rotate the front coils? If so, I can rotate them to sit just right so the endlink can never hit. I'm sure my description is not very good, but as long as I can rotate the coil I can fix it. So can I (even with top/lower mount)? Or is it fixed?

And lastly, I'm leaning towards buying and trying an adj. track bar. I'm just not understanding what this adjustment will do for me? I think the superjunk uses a drop bracket for the stock track bar (from what I can see, wish I installed this lift myself more and more every day). For the money it might be worth buying this track bar and trying it out.

On a side note, found a bad rear u-joint (very rear one) while I was under the truck and changed it with a spicer one and truck got smooth again. Think this stock u-joint has been going bad for some time now. Truck has 40k miles on it. I was gonna ask the dealer to fix it, but for the price of the spicer and 45mins it took me to change it (**** rust), it just wasn't worth getting more mexican parts on my truck, and dealing with the (s)dealer.

Thanks guys,

Igor.