please help 1650 degrees
#1
please help 1650 degrees
i have asked this once already but there wasnt much input one person said timing one said up the boost pressure and thank you to those people but i need to know what to do as far as advancing the timing i know how to fix the boost problem. what are some good programmers to advance timing you should i just get a rokktech sensor???????
thanks to everyone for input
thanks to everyone for input
#3
If you've done 1650 a few times the damage is probably done....the valve seats are probably spinning in their grooves waiting for the right moment to drop. 1350 really is the EGT limit for these trucks at 1500 you will start eroding the pistons with fuel spray especially with pressure.....the pistons won't fail for a while they will just continue to erode. If you are that hot....you need a turbo and maybe even water or a box that will defuel....from experience ....it is not worth trashing your truck to impress some other idiots. If you play hard it will fail....guaranteed. Kerry
#4
Have you verified that the EGT temperatures is correct? What was the temps before installing the bigger turbo and injectors?
If that's the case I would recommend the SMARTY with the aftermarket injectors/turbo program.
MikeyB
If that's the case I would recommend the SMARTY with the aftermarket injectors/turbo program.
MikeyB
#5
If you've done 1650 a few times the damage is probably done....the valve seats are probably spinning in their grooves waiting for the right moment to drop. 1350 really is the EGT limit for these trucks at 1500 you will start eroding the pistons with fuel spray especially with pressure.....the pistons won't fail for a while they will just continue to erode. If you are that hot....you need a turbo and maybe even water or a box that will defuel....from experience ....it is not worth trashing your truck to impress some other idiots. If you play hard it will fail....guaranteed. Kerry
Everyone else I talk to that races says 1600+ for a short burst is nothing to worry about. I know your '03 doesn't like the higher EGT's, but even 12V and 24V guys frequently run over 1600 at the track without problems. I understand you want to warn the guy about running high EGT's, but considering this is his 2nd post asking how to lower them, I think he's already well aware of the danger. There's really no need to try and scare him to death by saying his engine is toast because it hit 1650 for a split second.
#6
That's the same thing you said about mine.
Everyone else I talk to that races says 1600+ for a short burst is nothing to worry about. I know your '03 doesn't like the higher EGT's, but even 12V and 24V guys frequently run over 1600 at the track without problems. I understand you want to warn the guy about running high EGT's, but considering this is his 2nd post asking how to lower them, I think he's already well aware of the danger. There's really no need to try and scare him to death by saying his engine is toast because it hit 1650 for a split second.
Everyone else I talk to that races says 1600+ for a short burst is nothing to worry about. I know your '03 doesn't like the higher EGT's, but even 12V and 24V guys frequently run over 1600 at the track without problems. I understand you want to warn the guy about running high EGT's, but considering this is his 2nd post asking how to lower them, I think he's already well aware of the danger. There's really no need to try and scare him to death by saying his engine is toast because it hit 1650 for a split second.
Plus the drive pressures are much higher with a restrictive stock turbo. That's where the piston damage is gonna come from. I know this first hand
#7
An EGT gage in a modded CR is next to worthless for giving one info on whats happening in the cylinder.
Cool EGT can oftentimes mean plasma hot cylinder temps.
I have seen these engine melt slugs, score cylinder walls, and drop valves with EGT around 1300.
The CR uses piston cooling ducts and J-jet oil squirters. Cummins tightened up the ring gaps for the first and second rings since adding this feature. I have seen as little as .011" on the top ring. Not good for high cylinder temps. Rings begin to bump together and the scoring starts.
EGT = Exhaust temps, not cylinder temps.
Water injection is a must for a modded CR when towing. Even mild mods if the load is heavy. Hard core engines need it too. Even if towing is out the window.
Cool EGT can oftentimes mean plasma hot cylinder temps.
I have seen these engine melt slugs, score cylinder walls, and drop valves with EGT around 1300.
The CR uses piston cooling ducts and J-jet oil squirters. Cummins tightened up the ring gaps for the first and second rings since adding this feature. I have seen as little as .011" on the top ring. Not good for high cylinder temps. Rings begin to bump together and the scoring starts.
EGT = Exhaust temps, not cylinder temps.
Water injection is a must for a modded CR when towing. Even mild mods if the load is heavy. Hard core engines need it too. Even if towing is out the window.
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#8
I've had a seat drop and I know how much fun that is. My truck had seen 1500' more times than I can count prior to the seat dropping. Most times for 1 or 2 seconds sometimes for 5 or a little more. I may be a lucky one but I know my pistons looked good and the cylinder had good visable crosshatch at 115000 miles with 40000 of that being modified. I would like to add water meth injection though because all of these guys talking about how egts mean very little on a CR has me worried.
#11
What Don said makes a lot of sense. I have been told, by several experienced folks, to watch water temp really close. If the water temp starts climbing that is when things are getting pushed. The rate of climb is very important as well. This is more relative to towing than 1/4 mile runs or sled pulls. The problem with this is the fact that the engine cooling is pretty good and a temp gauge isn't quite sensitive enough IMO. Is there a better way to read cylinder temps Don? Is there a better way to monitor engine safety? Some suggestions would be cool.
one4
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