Pics of Jeep Liberty fuel canister (for aftermarket lift pumps)
#93
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That is the same thought I had.
You do not want the return fuel (warmed and probably full of air dumping right back into the canister making your Pump work double time!!!!!!!
By returning the fuel to a different location you are letting it "settle" into the tank, therefore letting the air out and or float on top of the fuel inside the tank. You will most likely never use this "foamy concoction" unless below ~1/8 tank~
#94
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Understand
Ok sorry now I got ya!
I thought you were thinking you wouldn't have to drop or lift the bed. I fully agree about doing it once, as it's not a super fun thing to do!
#96
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Sixpack, did you route your line after the check valve back into the stock return line?
I am nearly ready to do the liberty module just trying to work out the final details.
If you don't route the line after the Glacier bypass back into the stock return line, will the stock return line return enough fuel to open the flapper that allows more fuel into the basket. I already have my GDP kit installed and have the bypass line dumping into the filler neck like it says in the kit, the stock return line is unmodified in the GDP kit.
So what I am asking is, did you cut into the stock return line and plumb in the bypass "overflow" as well? I would think that due to the increased fuel pressure of the walbro pump there would be more fuel in the stock return line than stock and hopefully enough to actuate the flapper in the new liberty canister.
Any Thoughts??
I am nearly ready to do the liberty module just trying to work out the final details.
If you don't route the line after the Glacier bypass back into the stock return line, will the stock return line return enough fuel to open the flapper that allows more fuel into the basket. I already have my GDP kit installed and have the bypass line dumping into the filler neck like it says in the kit, the stock return line is unmodified in the GDP kit.
So what I am asking is, did you cut into the stock return line and plumb in the bypass "overflow" as well? I would think that due to the increased fuel pressure of the walbro pump there would be more fuel in the stock return line than stock and hopefully enough to actuate the flapper in the new liberty canister.
Any Thoughts??
#97
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Sixpack, did you route your line after the check valve back into the stock return line?
I am nearly ready to do the liberty module just trying to work out the final details.
If you don't route the line after the Glacier bypass back into the stock return line, will the stock return line return enough fuel to open the flapper that allows more fuel into the basket. I already have my GDP kit installed and have the bypass line dumping into the filler neck like it says in the kit, the stock return line is unmodified in the GDP kit.
So what I am asking is, did you cut into the stock return line and plumb in the bypass "overflow" as well? I would think that due to the increased fuel pressure of the walbro pump there would be more fuel in the stock return line than stock and hopefully enough to actuate the flapper in the new liberty canister.
Any Thoughts??
I am nearly ready to do the liberty module just trying to work out the final details.
If you don't route the line after the Glacier bypass back into the stock return line, will the stock return line return enough fuel to open the flapper that allows more fuel into the basket. I already have my GDP kit installed and have the bypass line dumping into the filler neck like it says in the kit, the stock return line is unmodified in the GDP kit.
So what I am asking is, did you cut into the stock return line and plumb in the bypass "overflow" as well? I would think that due to the increased fuel pressure of the walbro pump there would be more fuel in the stock return line than stock and hopefully enough to actuate the flapper in the new liberty canister.
Any Thoughts??
I don't think there are any mind boggling answers in this thread, but maybe some good info. you could use(if you haven't seen it) https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=189220
#98
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Yeah I have been following that one as well.
I really think we will be ok with returning the bypass into the fuel neck and leaving the stock return as is. Here's my logic and correct me if I'm wrong:
The flapper in the jeep canister is opened by the fuel returned from the engine mounted pump. The Jeeps don't have a supply pump so the amount of returned fuel is bound to be minimal.
The dodges come from the Factory with a supply pump and being as we are putting aftermarket pumps that flow more fuel to the CP3, the amount of fuel in our return lines even without routing the bypass regulator line into them is bound to be more than the amount required to operate the flapper in the jeep canister.
What do ya think??
I really think we will be ok with returning the bypass into the fuel neck and leaving the stock return as is. Here's my logic and correct me if I'm wrong:
The flapper in the jeep canister is opened by the fuel returned from the engine mounted pump. The Jeeps don't have a supply pump so the amount of returned fuel is bound to be minimal.
The dodges come from the Factory with a supply pump and being as we are putting aftermarket pumps that flow more fuel to the CP3, the amount of fuel in our return lines even without routing the bypass regulator line into them is bound to be more than the amount required to operate the flapper in the jeep canister.
What do ya think??
#99
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Yes but didn't you just say all your returning fuel is plumbed to your filler neck?
A AD system is $500, adding the Liberty canister adds aother $100 to that.
There was a thread where a guy used a new draw straw but mounted it right beside the canister with the end of it going into the factory canister (with the lift pump), that sounds like a good idea.
53Willys is going to try modifying the factory canister by getting rid of the factory pump and enlarging the supply tube, I'm waiting to see how that goes for him...
A AD system is $500, adding the Liberty canister adds aother $100 to that.
There was a thread where a guy used a new draw straw but mounted it right beside the canister with the end of it going into the factory canister (with the lift pump), that sounds like a good idea.
53Willys is going to try modifying the factory canister by getting rid of the factory pump and enlarging the supply tube, I'm waiting to see how that goes for him...
#100
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No. On the GDP kit the way that you regulate pressure is with a bypass mounted after the pump. The excess fuel is routed into the filler neck and returns to the tank.
The stock return line is not changed or modified in any way.
The problem with that is the way I understand you have to have the stock pump running in order for it to draw fresh fuel into the canister. Which is pointless and if the stock pump ever did fail you would have your draw straw in a canister that isn't refilling.
That is what the Jeep canister solves, because its flapper is operated by using the fuel in the return line rather than an in tank pump.
At least that is how I understand it
The stock return line is not changed or modified in any way.
The problem with that is the way I understand you have to have the stock pump running in order for it to draw fresh fuel into the canister. Which is pointless and if the stock pump ever did fail you would have your draw straw in a canister that isn't refilling.
That is what the Jeep canister solves, because its flapper is operated by using the fuel in the return line rather than an in tank pump.
At least that is how I understand it
#102
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Mark's at it again, WAY TO GO MARK!
Got the box off again I see, hopefully you have pics of the canister mods to?
Yelloz, thanks for the info, don't know much about the GDP kits.
This guy on another forum sells this kit for $350, uses a Walbro, might be another option to sab=ve a few bucks?
(Is this okay to do Lary?)
http://www.cumminsforum.com/gallery/...94/ppuser/5037
#103
Pauls at it again, WAY TO GO PAUL!
Got the box off again I see, hopefully you have pics of the canister mods to?
Yelloz, thanks for the info, don't know much about the GDP kits.
This guy on another forum sells this kit for $350, uses a Walbro, might be another option to sab=ve a few bucks?
(Is this okay to do Lary?)
http://www.cumminsforum.com/gallery/...94/ppuser/5037
Got the box off again I see, hopefully you have pics of the canister mods to?
Yelloz, thanks for the info, don't know much about the GDP kits.
This guy on another forum sells this kit for $350, uses a Walbro, might be another option to sab=ve a few bucks?
(Is this okay to do Lary?)
http://www.cumminsforum.com/gallery/...94/ppuser/5037
Whoos Paul???
yes I pulled the bed again!!! I am getting fast at it now
Mark
#105
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definitely need to route your return line back into the stock return port on the Liberty module. this is what helps open the flapper valve on the bottom and keep the cup full of fuel (especially when the tank gets low)