Sandaholic

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...&siteid=214358

There are proabably others as well. If you are going to order it maybe print out this price and go to your local Jeep dealer and hit up the guys at the parts counter and ask for the same price (or just call them. I just hate ordering stuff online and not knowing if the company is for real you know?

Bswope

Bump....... me too!!

jgiachino

Anyone see an issue running the AD150 + Jeep Canister + http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/pr...pf_id=0306FE?? Looking to support smarty 4.4 level 9 and a turbo in the future....don't want to hastle with the 1/4 tank issue and i'm deciding between the above and a GDP392 and wire a switch to run stock pump at 1/4 tank....but obviously the 392 doesnt have filtration and would have to manually switch at 1/4 tank....

06CTDforAU

Go to dodgeparts.com and search the OEM catalog using a part number. Put in 5140832AB and make sure that you select Jeep parts. It'll come up.

Sandaholic

I see what was happening. We were clicking on Jeep parts under online catalogs. Instead of Oem catalog under the Dodge accessories catalog. Kinda confusing when you click on jeep parts, but you need to look under Dodge accessories

That one threw me off the trail

here https://www.dodgeparts.com/oe_parts_catalog.html that should be it

Sixpack73

mine fluctuates a little no matter how full the tank is. I think that is due to using a check valve instead of a true bypass regulator. but with that said, whenever i put the throttle to the floor, pressure holds at a fairly steady 16psi, even with a very low tank. this is with the liberty setup.

your 150 shouldn't suck the stock fuel basket dry unless you are actually burning all that fuel. the majority of it is excess and will just recirculate through your return line back into the basket (keeping it from going dry). thats why its important to make sure you use the stock return line fitting on the top of the liberty module. there is also a little flapper valve on the bottom of the canister that allows fuel from the tank to flow into the basket, but only when there is flow coming through the return line. when you see this setup up close it will make better sense.

53 willys

Thanks for the update

I will keep the stock/engine return line going in to the canister for sure..where else would a guy plumb it and why would you change that part anyway?


I will also try plumbing the airdog return line into the top of the canister this should help keep the canister full...I am just worried about the air and fuel it is dropping back into the canister making the AD run loud..

my set up will show 0 psi at 1/4 tank but wont die or stumble...it bugs me...what the point of the AD if at 1/4 tank I suck a bunch of air any way....so that why I want to try the modded canister or jeep canister.

so does yours ever show 0 psi when the tank gets low???

Fisherguy

6 pack, so you're using the Liberty set up untouched? As in not modified?

There's another thread where the guy drilled it out, put in bigger lines with hose clamps etc IN the tank, I wouldn't feel comfortable using that one, if the Liberty one is good for 500 HP that's more than I'll ever need.
Dropping the tank is a pain and with my boat loader, cap etc removing the box is not an option.

Sandaholic

I'm sorry I don't understand........you will have to do one or the other with an 05'+ rig. It either needs a drawstraw a liberty module or you could gut your stocker like some of the guys were thinkin of doing.

Fisherguy

What I mean is it's something I only want to do once. If the Liberty unit works from the box without "modifying" it I'd be happy.
Drilling another hole in the tank for a new draw straw and running out of fuel at ¼ tank is not an option.

53 willys

the only way you can use the jeep canister unmodded is if you run the AD100

yelloz28

****** I think you are wrong, unless I have been following this wrong 6pack is running the walbro pump and using the stock liberty pickup with no mods to the liberty unit at all.


Right?

Fisherguy

(Okay, been reading the many FP threads, the Liberty lines are too small for the AD 150. )
What would happen if I used the 100 with the factory pump still in the tank?
I just want a few more pounds pressure than the "0" I'm getting now when I tromp on it which is not too often, but I'm worried I might damage the CP3, does this make sense?

The less I need to cut into or replace the better, I'm never going to be making the HP lotsa you guys are and I'm not really wanting to be running new fuel lines all over the place, just need a few more PSI with the reliability of the factory supplied lines without a buncha hose clamps all over the place.
(BTW *****, how do those hoses in your setup attach to the metal fittings without hose clamps?)

Maybe I'm just being too ****¿

53 willys

yeah your right...the reason I said AD100 is cause fisherguy has been talking about running a AD.
sorry I should have been more specific.

if you have a fuel system that requires you to use a 1/2" drawstraw...you must mod the jeep can.

53 willys

the AD100 would be fine for you...but you still have to drop the tank to remove the stock in tank pump or add the jeep can.

the fitting are called push-lock fittings and the just push on..but make sure you lube them with LOTS of oil before you try to push them on.