PacBrake PRXB Issue
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PacBrake PRXB Issue
Having heard great things about it, I installed a PRXB on my 2006 Dodge 2500 Auto. I installed it last week on Friday and as yet it does not work.
The compressor works fine and with the trucj running I can ground the 85 pin on the back relay (closest to the cab) and activate the PRXB, but under normal operation the PRXB does not activate. The kit I purchased (C44045) did not come with the ECM by-pass as it was not required for the Dodge 2006 Auto. Instead it the installation require plugging a couple of wires into the ECM. A black wire from the relay modules and a white wire from the dash on/off switch.
The black wire about a 16 gauge I'm guessing plugged right in and locked into place. The white wire was a smaller gauge maybe a 18 or 20. Plugging it in was like pushing a cooked noodle into a key hole. When I did get it into the hole it did not seem to lock in. When I tested the PRXB it did not work. The next day I examined the white wire and it was indeed loose, so I got back into it and reinserted it. This time I could feel it seem to lock in, but with a little gentle tugging it would come back out. Pushed it back in, taped it and hoped for the best. No luck.
I called Pacbrake on Monday. The guy I was consulting with was kind of helpful, but I really had to work for it. Toward the end of the day he sent me a TPS reset procedure thinking that might be my problem. Even though I told him about the white wire problem, he seemed to feel it was something with the ECM not recognizing the throttle position. All Greek to me. I did try the TPS reset procedure several times since it said it might take several tries. No luck.
I called back yesterday and finally spoke with right person, Jim, at Pacbrake he said the white wire was a known problem and he'd send me a heavier guage wire that I could splice onto the white wire he thought this would solve my problem and if not we'd move on from there. I'm hoping he's right.
Sorry for all of this info, this is my first exhaust brake and I'm wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem with a PRXB installation.
The compressor works fine and with the trucj running I can ground the 85 pin on the back relay (closest to the cab) and activate the PRXB, but under normal operation the PRXB does not activate. The kit I purchased (C44045) did not come with the ECM by-pass as it was not required for the Dodge 2006 Auto. Instead it the installation require plugging a couple of wires into the ECM. A black wire from the relay modules and a white wire from the dash on/off switch.
The black wire about a 16 gauge I'm guessing plugged right in and locked into place. The white wire was a smaller gauge maybe a 18 or 20. Plugging it in was like pushing a cooked noodle into a key hole. When I did get it into the hole it did not seem to lock in. When I tested the PRXB it did not work. The next day I examined the white wire and it was indeed loose, so I got back into it and reinserted it. This time I could feel it seem to lock in, but with a little gentle tugging it would come back out. Pushed it back in, taped it and hoped for the best. No luck.
I called Pacbrake on Monday. The guy I was consulting with was kind of helpful, but I really had to work for it. Toward the end of the day he sent me a TPS reset procedure thinking that might be my problem. Even though I told him about the white wire problem, he seemed to feel it was something with the ECM not recognizing the throttle position. All Greek to me. I did try the TPS reset procedure several times since it said it might take several tries. No luck.
I called back yesterday and finally spoke with right person, Jim, at Pacbrake he said the white wire was a known problem and he'd send me a heavier guage wire that I could splice onto the white wire he thought this would solve my problem and if not we'd move on from there. I'm hoping he's right.
Sorry for all of this info, this is my first exhaust brake and I'm wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem with a PRXB installation.
#2
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I can't be much help as my last truck was a 2001 so it's a long time since I installed it, it did work great though and is still in use every day, my son knows the person that bought it from his company which bought it from me. I believe mine only had the black wire that went to the ECM but as I mentioned because I didn't want the 3 second delay I used the ECM bypass kit. The kit does not come with the exhaust brake I had to order it separately along with the gear lever mounted on/off switch. While the bypass kit seemed a little flaky and cheap it was fairly easy to install and never once gave a problem. Like I said, not much help.
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I can't be much help as my last truck was a 2001 so it's a long time since I installed it, it did work great though and is still in use every day, my son knows the person that bought it from his company which bought it from me. I believe mine only had the black wire that went to the ECM but as I mentioned because I didn't want the 3 second delay I used the ECM bypass kit. The kit does not come with the exhaust brake I had to order it separately along with the gear lever mounted on/off switch. While the bypass kit seemed a little flaky and cheap it was fairly easy to install and never once gave a problem. Like I said, not much help.
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What is the TPS reset procedure?
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FWIW, my 03 6spd truck has a switch that I bought and mounted on the stick and the white wire goes thru the ecm. In the first year there were times when the brake wouldn't come on and I blamed the cheapo $6 switch from pep boys. Then the tps took a dump and I replaced it and the brake never missed a lick again and some driveability problems also went away. Craig
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FWIW, my 03 6spd truck has a switch that I bought and mounted on the stick and the white wire goes thru the ecm. In the first year there were times when the brake wouldn't come on and I blamed the cheapo $6 switch from pep boys. Then the tps took a dump and I replaced it and the brake never missed a lick again and some driveability problems also went away. Craig
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Yes. My plugs were to recessed to pull I had to remove the ECM 50 pin face and push them out with a straightened paperclip. The last time I inserted the white wire I removed the face again and inserted the wire then I reconnect the face. I also wrap a couple turns of electrical tap around the wire above the pin to stiffen the wire, making it easier to push into the port. The problem seems to be the pin. It's not locking into the port.
#9
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They called it an apps on the 03s instead of a tps but it's still a tps, in layman terms. Anyway, there is a much better quality tps, made by Williams, for the 03 and 04s w/o haven't to buy the entire mounting. Mine cost $169 delivered. A diesel mechanic told me it's the same tps used on most OTR diesels. I don't know if the 04.5+ ctds use it but do some shopping in case you have to replace yours. Craig
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They called it an apps on the 03s instead of a tps but it's still a tps, in layman terms. Anyway, there is a much better quality tps, made by Williams, for the 03 and 04s w/o haven't to buy the entire mounting. Mine cost $169 delivered. A diesel mechanic told me it's the same tps used on most OTR diesels. I don't know if the 04.5+ ctds use it but do some shopping in case you have to replace yours. Craig
#12
I recently put a PRXB on my truck but did not have any problems with the white wire. Maybe because I used to make wiring harnesses for aircraft and know how to insert pins into plugs....or maybe just because they gave me the correct pin....
#13
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I got mine from test products.com but its not the same on the later years. The pot alone wasnt available for the later years at that time. Check with them and see if they have one for yours yet. Craig
#15
I have had a Pacbrake on my 2006 for years and have had quite a few issues, fixed them all myself, its a real good unit but, I use it all the time and so eventually it needs some tlc ,maybe I can help, pin 85 on the rear relay is the ECM output,it goes low or gnd to activate the air solenoid which then operates the gate valve ,did you get the little plug out of the hole in the ECM rear connector on pin 42 before trying to push the black wire into it and pin 39 for the white wire ?
Remove the ECM connector ,insert a needle into the hole,put the needle in backwards and push out the plug using pliers on the needle ,numbers are on the outside of the ECM connector,use a needle just large enough to fit into the pin hole,you should be able to insert the white wire properly after that ,it should snap in. You need to remove the ECM connector.
This is important, I would advise you to put a drain valve on the bottom of your air tank, your tank will get a fair bit of moisture in it, which in the past gave some freezing issues ,but the relocation of some of the parts has pretty much solved that, but the issue is that if the air solenoid valve ever sticks on and mine has, due to needing a cleaning inside or for any other reason your gate valve becomes stuck on ,you will not be able to drive your truck, at all ,you can idle along and that's it.
If this ever happens open the drain valve on your tank, unplug the air pressure sw to prevent the compressor from continuing to run and you will be able to drive it till you can resolve the issue. Make sure you show anyone who drives it this fix, in 7 years it only happened 3x,but it will save you a lot of grief if you learn how the unit works ,what things can go wrong ,how to fix them or temporarily bypass the problem. It also is a good idea to drain out the moisture every month.
There should be a locking tab on the pin on the white and black wires too, take a very close look, maybe they need a little bend on them ,check the crimp where the wire goes onto the pin and recheck your hole numbers and of course you are in the rear engine plug. Have you tested your switched ground to pin 39?
Sorry for the long post ,I missed your post on using the paper clip to remove the connector plugs.
Remove the ECM connector ,insert a needle into the hole,put the needle in backwards and push out the plug using pliers on the needle ,numbers are on the outside of the ECM connector,use a needle just large enough to fit into the pin hole,you should be able to insert the white wire properly after that ,it should snap in. You need to remove the ECM connector.
This is important, I would advise you to put a drain valve on the bottom of your air tank, your tank will get a fair bit of moisture in it, which in the past gave some freezing issues ,but the relocation of some of the parts has pretty much solved that, but the issue is that if the air solenoid valve ever sticks on and mine has, due to needing a cleaning inside or for any other reason your gate valve becomes stuck on ,you will not be able to drive your truck, at all ,you can idle along and that's it.
If this ever happens open the drain valve on your tank, unplug the air pressure sw to prevent the compressor from continuing to run and you will be able to drive it till you can resolve the issue. Make sure you show anyone who drives it this fix, in 7 years it only happened 3x,but it will save you a lot of grief if you learn how the unit works ,what things can go wrong ,how to fix them or temporarily bypass the problem. It also is a good idea to drain out the moisture every month.
There should be a locking tab on the pin on the white and black wires too, take a very close look, maybe they need a little bend on them ,check the crimp where the wire goes onto the pin and recheck your hole numbers and of course you are in the rear engine plug. Have you tested your switched ground to pin 39?
Sorry for the long post ,I missed your post on using the paper clip to remove the connector plugs.