Oiled air filters versus dry air filters
04-30-2008, 05:07 PM
#16
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I have read 2-3 posts about oiled filters actually freezing in extreme cold temps. Some filters have actually cracked, from what I have read.
I really like my AEM dry filter:
I really like my AEM dry filter:
04-30-2008, 05:21 PM
#17
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When does it get cold enough in Indiana to worry about cracking an oiled filter at subzero temps? If you drive north in the winter, disregard this wise crack.
04-30-2008, 05:29 PM
#18
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i have not had a chance to read all posts on this thread but the main reason that things are stirred up is a few years ago the manufactures all started issuing bulletins to the dealers for check engine lights. for the techs to inspect to see if an "oiled" aftermarket filter is installed. if so, they were to check codes and if the MAF (i know diesels usually don't have them) was setting codes they were to blame the problem on over oiling and contaminating the MAF and it then turned out to be customer pay situation rather than warranty. This was the main reason most of the filter manufactures started to mfg "Dry" filters.
04-30-2008, 06:01 PM
#19
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The Amsoil in 6" is only with an 8" tall filter. I'm currently running a 6" X 9" so I don't want to go backwards.
04-30-2008, 07:21 PM
#20
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I run a lot of dirt/gravel roads and was also sick of cleaning oiled filters. Last year I bgt an Amsoil Microfiber Filter (#4095) to test against the Pro Guard 7 that came with my BD twins. A brief summary of my findings on the Amsoil Filter...
Positives
- Quality construction....well made, IMO.
- Good filtration; Zero dust or debris in my intake tubes or turbo throats.
- Very easy to clean. 20-30 psi compressed air on the inside blows them clean. Your back on the road in under 5 min. First of each month, I give it a quick 'blow out' and that's it!
Negatives
- Restrictive above about 400-450 hp. Just not enough flow for my set up.
- Turbos spool a bit slower and I get suction noise (vacume pressure) when playing hard.
I also discovered the PRO Guard 7 costs about 15 hp on my CTD, vs the AFE Racing filter (5 layer). But that's for another thread.
I now use the Amsoil Nanofiber Filter for daily driving and work, which is usually set around 425 hp anyway. Love it! I switch to the AFE Race Filter for dynos, drag strip or weekend playing. At my present rate I figure I will never need to clean/re-oil the AFE filter in this lifetime.
RJ
Positives
- Quality construction....well made, IMO.
- Good filtration; Zero dust or debris in my intake tubes or turbo throats.
- Very easy to clean. 20-30 psi compressed air on the inside blows them clean. Your back on the road in under 5 min. First of each month, I give it a quick 'blow out' and that's it!
Negatives
- Restrictive above about 400-450 hp. Just not enough flow for my set up.
- Turbos spool a bit slower and I get suction noise (vacume pressure) when playing hard.
I also discovered the PRO Guard 7 costs about 15 hp on my CTD, vs the AFE Racing filter (5 layer). But that's for another thread.
I now use the Amsoil Nanofiber Filter for daily driving and work, which is usually set around 425 hp anyway. Love it! I switch to the AFE Race Filter for dynos, drag strip or weekend playing. At my present rate I figure I will never need to clean/re-oil the AFE filter in this lifetime.
RJ
The Amsoil filter always gave ~3-4 ppm silicon oil samples, but was restrictive and I ended up always sucking beaucoup oil past the turbo seals when the fueling was turned up.
In comparison the AFE PG7 filter returned ~15 ppm silicon oil samples. It was also restrictive in terms of sucking oil past the turbo seals, but noticeably less so than the Amsoil filter even though the Amsoil was dimensionally larger in all directions (i.e., more apparent surface area) than the AFE.
I am back to running a large AFE Magnum Force oiled filter with my MPI twins with a pre-filter cover.
If Amsoil made a lot bigger nanofiber filter I would be running it.
04-30-2008, 09:09 PM
#21
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I would say if I were in your shoes the negatives out weigh the positives JMO. My Airaid filters perfectly for my use. I've always(18yrs) had K&N type filters and have NEVER had any problems w/ oiled filters. Yes, you can over-oil if you don't know what your doing. But what all can you do wrong w/ a dry filter if you don't know what your doing???
04-30-2008, 09:26 PM
#22
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matego, we are on the same brainwaves! I totally agree, I've always run oiled filters, even on my toys. I clean my about every 25,000 miles for good measure and it still cleans up good. I just haven't justified a reason to go to a dry filter, I've had absolutely no intake problems.
05-01-2008, 07:35 AM
#24
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You brought up a good question. Who actually takes the time to set a regulator to 30 PSI and does not use a narrow tipped blow gun? After X ammount of blowing from the inside-out, when does this dry material start to tear? I will continue to run oiled filters that I can properly clean and reoil. I dont mind the extra time it takes to clean it, it only needs done 1 time a year with the mileage I run.
05-01-2008, 07:43 AM
#25
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I've cleaned mine once since mid 03.I've checked the intake a few times and all was spotless and no dust.I clean mind late afternoon.Put it in my pump house that is brick and stays warm.Dry by morning,reoiled with a moderate misting and reinstalled.Washed the outerwears in the sink.
05-01-2008, 08:37 AM
#27
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Originally Posted by tcr
Exactly, and really, how hard is it to oil them right?
There are, from the comments above, many ways to 'skin this cat'. I know one member that buys a new AFE filter every two-three yrs... just to have the piece of mind about proper amount of oiling.
Sounds crazy and wasteful to some... maybe not so to others.
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