Caltrac Bars would make a huge difference also no more wheel hoping and lots better traction.

 

CAll them today and was told $419 shipped with new U-Bolts. Sounds like a good price.

 

Has anyone ran or have any info on the traction leaf springs. do they work, which ones to get, where to get them, and what will it do to my street ride with and without a load?

also i can't find a set of slicks to use with out buying new ones but i was thinking about using my spare. my spare is standard load range and the ones on my truck are E load. now TCR told me that letting air out of my tires will help which i didn't think about. now if i let air out of my E-Load tire and put the standard one on and let out some air will it work OK?

Thanks,

Also i am going to go put my truck on the rollers on Friday. with that said lets get a list going of what everyone thinks i will run with the mods on my Sig. and we will see which one of you knows CTD the best "or which one got LUCKY"

 

What version smarty do you have? The traction leaf springs look okay but boy that would be a pain to install of trac. bars. As far as slicks go their are no full on slicks that will fit a 17" wheel only drag radials from a few select companies m&h, m/t. Nitto is working on a full out slick however not word as to when it will be complete. You also cant switch to a smaller rim due to the size and diameter of the brake caliper the smaller whell will not fit over them.

 

Look at the new DieselPower magazine, the Project X truck is running a set of drag radials that I'm sure would be plenty for that little red Dodge. My suggestion is still to buy a wider E rated tire that has a softer compound like a nitto or toyo tire in the 305/60/17 range. I had those on the back of my 02 supercharged F150 and they hooked up just fine, believe me.

 

The smarty that i am running is i think the 4.08 it is the one that came on the programmer. so do you think that putting the other tire on and letting air out of both would work fine?

Thanks,

 

Eric, I don't understand this question?
You need new bigger tires anyway, right?

 

Find two spares and air them down to around 20psi and heat em up really good with a good burnout that way your not killing you good tires spares hardely get used a little tread missing wont hurt anything. What tcr stated is truck a really soft compound tire like nittos or toyo's will be a good addition.

 

Just got back from the Dyno in Buda. ran on a DynoJet stock HP & TQ =216hp 477tq. with smarty wild TM #7 5th gear= 364hp 702tq smarty #9 5th gear 369hp 703tq smarty on #9 6th gear= 377hp 726tq. not what i was wanting but don't know why my stock was so low. it fell off on the top end like it was defueling. we can't think of what it is doing. anyone had this happen before or maybe know what wight cause it. it is a 305hp so its not the S.O. But with a 148hp gain on #7 i can't be to upset.

Thanks,

P.S. Tom what have you found out about my stock?

 

Possibly needs to have the ecm or pcm re-flashed??? Not sure, what really bothers me is the roller-coaster looking HP curve and the way it looks to be de-fueling on the stock run. At a max of 27psi, it shouldn't have de-fueled???

 

so should i get it re-frashed? if so where? and will it mess anything up as far as performance with the programs? and what does it cost? also i need you to help Danielle find a Quad Box 100hp. she is going to get me one for Christmas.

 

At the dealer. W/O smarty on the truck, also wait to see if anyone else has any ideas, I'm not positive. Have Mama call me, I'll make sure you get hooked up from santa!

 

I have found that a good way to help with your launch is to set the parking brake a little bit, just enough to keep from rolling through the light. It also puts enough drag on both the wheels to keep both wheels engaged with your limited slip. Your stock clutch will not hold a 3rd gear boosted launch.... at all. Wick the throttle between 2500-3k to keep some boost on the gauge. Let her loose in 2nd and do not let the right foot off the floor until you are through the stripes at the end of the track. That will stop boost loss between shifts. It will make your RPM's spike over 4k between shifts though.

Now if you remember all that stuff, dont forget to release your parking brake off the line, keep an eye on the tach, and dont screw up the 5th gear shift.

For tires, I have a set of Long Trails that I took a paint roller and rolled Track Bite on them for 2 days to make them good and soft. I bring them in the bed with a jack and change them at the track. Good luck and please keep me informed on how you do. I love to see fellow boat rowers tearing up the strip.

P.S. I found that staging shallow and leaving just as the last yellow light illuminates, will get you a great reaction time and help with 60' times

 

A decent clutch will drop your 60' times by 0.6 seconds pretty easily...that alone will get you into the the high 14 range. The other problem you have is traction. Toyo Proxes S/T are are really good tire for this.....or 4 sandbags secured near the tail gate.....you dont have the hp to be breaking the toyos loose, but with some extra weight and airing the stock tires down too 20 psi that is all you will need untill you hit 450ish...then you will need better tires.