Need to get H2 rims machined
#1
Need to get H2 rims machined
Anybody in So. Cal. know where I can get my new H2 rims machined to proper specs...preferrably in Orange County? Also, does anybody remember what the specs are? I've read it somewhere before but can't seem to find it right now. I know you can do it yourself with a hole saw, but I'd like to see if I can get a good deal before I risk thrashing these things. Thanks in advance.
#3
DTR's 'Wrench thrower...' And he aims for the gusto...
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,668
Likes: 3
From: Smith Valley, NV (sometimes Redwood City, CA)
Originally Posted by Rambunctious1
Anybody in So. Cal. know where I can get my new H2 rims machined to proper specs...preferrably in Orange County? Also, does anybody remember what the specs are? I've read it somewhere before but can't seem to find it right now. I know you can do it yourself with a hole saw, but I'd like to see if I can get a good deal before I risk thrashing these things. Thanks in advance.
I know you want to be careful and do a good job. But if you can't find a machine shop to take care of it for a reasonable price, go ahead with the hole saw. As long as you are comfortable with using a right angle, variable speed, Hole Hog style drill, you won't thrash the wheels. But only use that style drill. The wheels have a stepped center hole that the cup saw sets right down into. It won't come out and it holds it centered while you are cutting. Don't apply any down pressure to the drill, set it into the hole while stopped, hold both handles to keep it from binding, and then run it slowly and let the tool do the work. It is not as dramatic as you might imagine and it works better if the tires are already mounted. I set mine on the tail gate and giggled at how simple it was. I gave the tool and the hole a good soaking of WD40 before the cut. After it gets through, about 30 seconds, you can finish out the surface and bring it to the final size with a two inch drum sander on a high speed 3/8 drill motor. By the time you carefully sand the inner diameter to smooth, while holding the drill reasonably verticle, it will be at the right diameter to go onto the truck. Go for a test fit and make sure it has a little play over the raised center on the axle flange. The whole process takes about two minutes per wheel and it retains some of the balancing taper on the inside of the wheel. I had my 315s re-balanced after about 40,000 miles and later had new 285s put on and balanced. No problems and I love the wheels. Dodges should have come with this size wheel, offset and width are just right.
I don't want to argue with anyone who wants a more "professional" hole in the center of their wheels, that's fine, and you should have them machined if you are not comfortable with the tools I've mentioned. But having said that, remember, this is only a clearance hole, it does nothing to support the truck, and it can be done so easily at home. It is a great procedure under the right circumstances. I'll be doing another set this weekend.
Are you planning on using the Dodge caps? If so they will go right on if you cut a 7/8 inch ring off the plastic to make the clips stick out more on the back side. Then carefully grind a little off the clips on the opposite side of where they each grab the nuts. Remove about 1/8 inch of the little metal flange on all eight. Then the caps will snap on and fit very securely. You can also make a little right angle tool out of some 1/2 inch flat stock that fits into the wheel cutout to snap off the caps, tape it to your tire wrench and you're done.
Enjoy.
Wetspirit
#5
Also, just a heads up. The stock caps fit without any modifications with an extra set of lug nuts on the studs. I'll be modifying my caps eventually when I have time, but for the time being they're on there with the extra lug nuts.
#7
Originally Posted by Wetspirit
I know you want to be careful and do a good job. But if you can't find a machine shop to take care of it for a reasonable price, go ahead with the hole saw. As long as you are comfortable with using a right angle, variable speed, Hole Hog style drill, you won't thrash the wheels. But only use that style drill. The wheels have a stepped center hole that the cup saw sets right down into. It won't come out and it holds it centered while you are cutting. Don't apply any down pressure to the drill, set it into the hole while stopped, hold both handles to keep it from binding, and then run it slowly and let the tool do the work. It is not as dramatic as you might imagine and it works better if the tires are already mounted. I set mine on the tail gate and giggled at how simple it was. I gave the tool and the hole a good soaking of WD40 before the cut. After it gets through, about 30 seconds, you can finish out the surface and bring it to the final size with a two inch drum sander on a high speed 3/8 drill motor. By the time you carefully sand the inner diameter to smooth, while holding the drill reasonably verticle, it will be at the right diameter to go onto the truck. Go for a test fit and make sure it has a little play over the raised center on the axle flange. The whole process takes about two minutes per wheel and it retains some of the balancing taper on the inside of the wheel. I had my 315s re-balanced after about 40,000 miles and later had new 285s put on and balanced. No problems and I love the wheels. Dodges should have come with this size wheel, offset and width are just right.
I don't want to argue with anyone who wants a more "professional" hole in the center of their wheels, that's fine, and you should have them machined if you are not comfortable with the tools I've mentioned. But having said that, remember, this is only a clearance hole, it does nothing to support the truck, and it can be done so easily at home. It is a great procedure under the right circumstances. I'll be doing another set this weekend.
Are you planning on using the Dodge caps? If so they will go right on if you cut a 7/8 inch ring off the plastic to make the clips stick out more on the back side. Then carefully grind a little off the clips on the opposite side of where they each grab the nuts. Remove about 1/8 inch of the little metal flange on all eight. Then the caps will snap on and fit very securely. You can also make a little right angle tool out of some 1/2 inch flat stock that fits into the wheel cutout to snap off the caps, tape it to your tire wrench and you're done.
Enjoy.
Wetspirit
I don't want to argue with anyone who wants a more "professional" hole in the center of their wheels, that's fine, and you should have them machined if you are not comfortable with the tools I've mentioned. But having said that, remember, this is only a clearance hole, it does nothing to support the truck, and it can be done so easily at home. It is a great procedure under the right circumstances. I'll be doing another set this weekend.
Are you planning on using the Dodge caps? If so they will go right on if you cut a 7/8 inch ring off the plastic to make the clips stick out more on the back side. Then carefully grind a little off the clips on the opposite side of where they each grab the nuts. Remove about 1/8 inch of the little metal flange on all eight. Then the caps will snap on and fit very securely. You can also make a little right angle tool out of some 1/2 inch flat stock that fits into the wheel cutout to snap off the caps, tape it to your tire wrench and you're done.
Enjoy.
Wetspirit
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#8
If you're up in Norcal or want to ship them, Wheel Techniques at (408) 866-5859 in Santa Clara did mine. All four for $275 or something like that. Not cheap, but quality shop for custom wheel fab work.
#9
DTR's 'Wrench thrower...' And he aims for the gusto...
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,668
Likes: 3
From: Smith Valley, NV (sometimes Redwood City, CA)
Originally Posted by Rambunctious1
So Wetspirit, what size bit do I need to use for this and where would I get one? Also, I don't think I have the type of drill you mentioned. I do have a pretty stout 18V variable speed hand held drill with a removable 90* handle. Would this work do you think? I'd rather not go buy a new drill that I would most likely use once for this project. I see what you're saying about how the bit will sit in the recessed portion of the wheel and will be centered. That's great! My biggest concern was how I was gonna center the thing. Thanks to all for the great input.
It is a 4 3/4" hole saw, not a drill bit. And the proper drive is a Hole Hog drill. You might get away with a lesser drill motor but the Hole Hog has the torque and the mass to do a good job safely. Harbor Freight has them on sale occasionally for very cheap, mine is a Milwaukee. A router (as mentioned in another post) seems like such a hassle and far less accurate. You only want to remove enough material to let the wheels fit but not enough to remove the balancing taper. If you are not familiar with these tools it might be better to do it another way. If you are, you'll love how easy and quick it is.
Wetspirit
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