My Walbro fuel pump setup
02-17-2006, 02:46 PM
#1
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My Walbro fuel pump setup
I've been getting questions about this so I thought I'd just start a new post here.
I mounted my Walbro on the inside frame, just behind the transfer case and ahead of the crossmember. This is on a short box truck. I used the mounting straps included with the pump. I installed a new pickup tube that I purchased from Rip. It's the same one used on the fass. From that pickup, I ran a 3/8" fuel line and fed the Walbro. I ran a short piece of line out of the Walbro and connected this to the stock fuel line that I cut with a tubing cutter. I clamped a short piece of hose to the existing line from the tank and plugged it shut. I'll get into why I did this later. At my cp3 inlet and return outlet, I installed 2 tapped banjo fittings from Geno's garage. I installed 2 barbed fittings at these locations. One 5/16" one 3/16". The 5/16" on the inlet, I ran a 5/16" fuel line toward the driver fender between the washer fluid and the fuse panel. Here I mounted a "tee" fitting" and connected the 5/16" line. One other port of the T is where I installed a pressure sender unit. The other port is where I reduced down to the 3/16" barb and ran a fuel line connecting it back to the cp3 return w/ barbed fitting. Very simple. I bought a Painless wiring harness/relay from Summit and installed it on the fender near the firewall. I trigger that relay with a tap off of the cigarette lighter fuse in the panel (it is hot when the key is on) so this will energize the pump and de-energize the pump with your ignition key. I ran the hot lead of the relay to a fuseholder and went directly to the + battery terminal. I also removed the stock fuel pump relay (61). The load side of the new relay I ran down to the frame (with loom) and wired to the walbro. I grounded the walbro to the frame as well. Between the pump, banjos, barb fittings, hose, wiring, loom, various clamps and wire connectors plus the fuel pickup, I have about $210-220 invested.
As it stands, I cannot see how any other system could stack up against this for the power, performance, and durability (time will tell), AND the low, low price. There will be those out there who disagree.... This is America (for most of us) and that is fine. This is my opinion, backed up by numbers, and performance.
btw- the reason I ran the seperate fuel pickup is IN CASE my pump dies, I can switch back to the stock in tank pump in 5 minutes by switching the 2 clamped lines under the truck and installing the stock relay back into the fuse panel. I don't know of any systems that allow that type of redundancy, at that price.
I mounted my Walbro on the inside frame, just behind the transfer case and ahead of the crossmember. This is on a short box truck. I used the mounting straps included with the pump. I installed a new pickup tube that I purchased from Rip. It's the same one used on the fass. From that pickup, I ran a 3/8" fuel line and fed the Walbro. I ran a short piece of line out of the Walbro and connected this to the stock fuel line that I cut with a tubing cutter. I clamped a short piece of hose to the existing line from the tank and plugged it shut. I'll get into why I did this later. At my cp3 inlet and return outlet, I installed 2 tapped banjo fittings from Geno's garage. I installed 2 barbed fittings at these locations. One 5/16" one 3/16". The 5/16" on the inlet, I ran a 5/16" fuel line toward the driver fender between the washer fluid and the fuse panel. Here I mounted a "tee" fitting" and connected the 5/16" line. One other port of the T is where I installed a pressure sender unit. The other port is where I reduced down to the 3/16" barb and ran a fuel line connecting it back to the cp3 return w/ barbed fitting. Very simple. I bought a Painless wiring harness/relay from Summit and installed it on the fender near the firewall. I trigger that relay with a tap off of the cigarette lighter fuse in the panel (it is hot when the key is on) so this will energize the pump and de-energize the pump with your ignition key. I ran the hot lead of the relay to a fuseholder and went directly to the + battery terminal. I also removed the stock fuel pump relay (61). The load side of the new relay I ran down to the frame (with loom) and wired to the walbro. I grounded the walbro to the frame as well. Between the pump, banjos, barb fittings, hose, wiring, loom, various clamps and wire connectors plus the fuel pickup, I have about $210-220 invested.
As it stands, I cannot see how any other system could stack up against this for the power, performance, and durability (time will tell), AND the low, low price. There will be those out there who disagree.... This is America (for most of us) and that is fine. This is my opinion, backed up by numbers, and performance.
btw- the reason I ran the seperate fuel pickup is IN CASE my pump dies, I can switch back to the stock in tank pump in 5 minutes by switching the 2 clamped lines under the truck and installing the stock relay back into the fuse panel. I don't know of any systems that allow that type of redundancy, at that price.
02-17-2006, 03:15 PM
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Excellent job! What's your fuel pressure with the 3/16" bypass versus 5/16" bypass? I think the factory steel return lines were 5/16" (3/8" OD) the last time I measured them???
02-17-2006, 03:22 PM
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Hey Trick, good going. I will be doing this soon. I still have the factory original canister mounted unit w/125,000+mi. and though it still gives good pressure, when I have both my BDPP & Edge tuned up I can tell it's starving for fuel, so I don't know how much longer it will last. So I just keep things duned down and try to drive sane 
. I can't say much, but a member of both here and TDR is working on a retrofit kit with all nessesary fittings and I'm going to wait till he has them together, cause I don't have the time to fab up my own or the cash to pay someone to do it for me.
. I can't say much, but a member of both here and TDR is working on a retrofit kit with all nessesary fittings and I'm going to wait till he has them together, cause I don't have the time to fab up my own or the cash to pay someone to do it for me.
02-17-2006, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by streetsmoker
I can't say much, but a member of both here and TDR is working on a retrofit kit with all nessesary fittings and I'm going to wait till he has them together, cause I don't have the time to fab up my own or the cash to pay someone to do it for me.
Good job, who ever it is.
02-17-2006, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by trik396
I've been getting questions about this so I thought I'd just start a new post here.
I mounted my Walbro on the inside frame, just behind the transfer case and ahead of the crossmember. This is on a short box truck. I used the mounting straps included with the pump. I installed a new pickup tube that I purchased from Rip. It's the same one used on the fass. From that pickup, I ran a 3/8" fuel line and fed the Walbro. I ran a short piece of line out of the Walbro and connected this to the stock fuel line that I cut with a tubing cutter. I clamped a short piece of hose to the existing line from the tank and plugged it shut. I'll get into why I did this later. At my cp3 inlet and return outlet, I installed 2 tapped banjo fittings from Geno's garage. I installed 2 barbed fittings at these locations. One 5/16" one 3/16". The 5/16" on the inlet, I ran a 5/16" fuel line toward the driver fender between the washer fluid and the fuse panel. Here I mounted a "tee" fitting" and connected the 5/16" line. One other port of the T is where I installed a pressure sender unit. The other port is where I reduced down to the 3/16" barb and ran a fuel line connecting it back to the cp3 return w/ barbed fitting. Very simple. I bought a Painless wiring harness/relay from Summit and installed it on the fender near the firewall. I trigger that relay with a tap off of the cigarette lighter fuse in the panel (it is hot when the key is on) so this will energize the pump and de-energize the pump with your ignition key. I ran the hot lead of the relay to a fuseholder and went directly to the + battery terminal. I also removed the stock fuel pump relay (61). The load side of the new relay I ran down to the frame (with loom) and wired to the walbro. I grounded the walbro to the frame as well. Between the pump, banjos, barb fittings, hose, wiring, loom, various clamps and wire connectors plus the fuel pickup, I have about $210-220 invested.
As it stands, I cannot see how any other system could stack up against this for the power, performance, and durability (time will tell), AND the low, low price. There will be those out there who disagree.... This is America (for most of us) and that is fine. This is my opinion, backed up by numbers, and performance.
btw- the reason I ran the seperate fuel pickup is IN CASE my pump dies, I can switch back to the stock in tank pump in 5 minutes by switching the 2 clamped lines under the truck and installing the stock relay back into the fuse panel. I don't know of any systems that allow that type of redundancy, at that price.
I mounted my Walbro on the inside frame, just behind the transfer case and ahead of the crossmember. This is on a short box truck. I used the mounting straps included with the pump. I installed a new pickup tube that I purchased from Rip. It's the same one used on the fass. From that pickup, I ran a 3/8" fuel line and fed the Walbro. I ran a short piece of line out of the Walbro and connected this to the stock fuel line that I cut with a tubing cutter. I clamped a short piece of hose to the existing line from the tank and plugged it shut. I'll get into why I did this later. At my cp3 inlet and return outlet, I installed 2 tapped banjo fittings from Geno's garage. I installed 2 barbed fittings at these locations. One 5/16" one 3/16". The 5/16" on the inlet, I ran a 5/16" fuel line toward the driver fender between the washer fluid and the fuse panel. Here I mounted a "tee" fitting" and connected the 5/16" line. One other port of the T is where I installed a pressure sender unit. The other port is where I reduced down to the 3/16" barb and ran a fuel line connecting it back to the cp3 return w/ barbed fitting. Very simple. I bought a Painless wiring harness/relay from Summit and installed it on the fender near the firewall. I trigger that relay with a tap off of the cigarette lighter fuse in the panel (it is hot when the key is on) so this will energize the pump and de-energize the pump with your ignition key. I ran the hot lead of the relay to a fuseholder and went directly to the + battery terminal. I also removed the stock fuel pump relay (61). The load side of the new relay I ran down to the frame (with loom) and wired to the walbro. I grounded the walbro to the frame as well. Between the pump, banjos, barb fittings, hose, wiring, loom, various clamps and wire connectors plus the fuel pickup, I have about $210-220 invested.
As it stands, I cannot see how any other system could stack up against this for the power, performance, and durability (time will tell), AND the low, low price. There will be those out there who disagree.... This is America (for most of us) and that is fine. This is my opinion, backed up by numbers, and performance.
btw- the reason I ran the seperate fuel pickup is IN CASE my pump dies, I can switch back to the stock in tank pump in 5 minutes by switching the 2 clamped lines under the truck and installing the stock relay back into the fuse panel. I don't know of any systems that allow that type of redundancy, at that price.
Sounds nice.....I like the fact of having the extra pump still intact in case the other goes out. I was thinking why not put a Tee inline after the Walbro and put a 1 way valve on it then you could leave the stock lift pump always hooked up and just pull the fuse. then it would be a plug and play switch over.
02-17-2006, 04:46 PM
#6
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Jcroman - Now that's a good idea also. Wish I'd thought of it while I was under the truck.
Jsteiger - I've been playing around with different size bypasses and a totally seperate 3/8" return line. Currently I'm running the 3/16" bypass but my pressures are a little too high, from 24-28psi warm while cruising.
With the 3/8" seperate return and no bypass at the cp3, I was at 17psi cruising, but at wot, it'd drop to almost 3psi. So I'm looking for a medium ground in between. Probably going with 5/16 or 3/8" bypass at the cp3. I'm still experimenting as I think I'm the only one with an 05'Dodge messing with this stuff.
Whatever the pressure, so far, it has run without a hiccup.
Jsteiger - I've been playing around with different size bypasses and a totally seperate 3/8" return line. Currently I'm running the 3/16" bypass but my pressures are a little too high, from 24-28psi warm while cruising.
With the 3/8" seperate return and no bypass at the cp3, I was at 17psi cruising, but at wot, it'd drop to almost 3psi. So I'm looking for a medium ground in between. Probably going with 5/16 or 3/8" bypass at the cp3. I'm still experimenting as I think I'm the only one with an 05'Dodge messing with this stuff.
Whatever the pressure, so far, it has run without a hiccup.
02-17-2006, 04:54 PM
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"Good job, who ever it is."
It isn't me (Superduty) if that is what you are implying. I don't have a membership at TDR either. I think Gypsyman is doing something but you would have to ask him to be sure.
It isn't me (Superduty) if that is what you are implying. I don't have a membership at TDR either. I think Gypsyman is doing something but you would have to ask him to be sure.
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02-17-2006, 08:41 PM
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No, it's not Superduty. MAn can you think of the stink that would raise with some folks on here. It is Gypsyman, but we need to keep it quite as possible until he can get an advertiser's spot or he will be violating some major rules by telling people. so there will be no more word about it will there. We don't want to ruin a good thing before it gets off the ground. Glad to see you back Superduty, were you muted for a while or just been busy? And to think I almost went to BD Diesels retrofit kit which I found out was one of SD's glorified carb pumps. They couldn't even tell me how to get a replacement w/o all the fittings if I needed it. I just hope my stock setup lasts till I can get my Walbro installed. Another thing SD, you would not believe the # of people I run accross that do not know about the huge problems the 98.5-04.5 Cummins lift pumps are having. I have talked to 3diff. people in as many weeks with 3rd gens that have the dreded CP3 weep and their deelers didn't tell them it could be caused by the LP. As far as a lot of the dealers are concerned, the problems were fixed with the advent of the 3rd gen.
02-17-2006, 08:45 PM
#9
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Originally Posted by JCROMAN
Sounds nice.....I like the fact of having the extra pump still intact in case the other goes out. I was thinking why not put a Tee inline after the Walbro and put a 1 way valve on it then you could leave the stock lift pump always hooked up and just pull the fuse. then it would be a plug and play switch over.
02-17-2006, 09:11 PM
#10
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Thread Starter
You could probably set up the stock relay/pump with an in cab switch. You could also use some type of electric solenoid valve to switch fuel from one line to another. All from in the cab, with the engine running. Cool. 
02-18-2006, 12:20 AM
#11
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Thanks Trik for sharing this stuff. Sounds great. Still a little over my head, but im catching on.
It would be nice if Gypsyman could get this kit together.
Trik.....Not asking for a price....but where did you get your Wallbro pump? Link? Thanks for your help and I got your PM.
It would be nice if Gypsyman could get this kit together.
Trik.....Not asking for a price....but where did you get your Wallbro pump? Link? Thanks for your help and I got your PM.
02-18-2006, 07:44 AM
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02-18-2006, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by trik396