03DodgeHO

Go checkout WalMart TechII Synthetic rear diff oil meet all spec (GL-5) plus easy on the pocket book. Just went 4500 miles round trip pulling 5th wheel to Coastal Oregon from Oklahoma. Everything is still working fine... Walmart oil is made by Quakerstate...

FAY

The factory gear lube in both my differentials was the worst looking crap I have ever seen come out of a new differential that hadn't done any appreciable work, and my Dodge diesel unit never went into water depth any deeper than what a cloud burst can put on a flat asphalt highway. I did not even consider Mopar lube after what I saw in the drain pan.

At 2303 kilo-meters or 1431 miles, in October 2005, I drained that awful smelling and looking factory puke, and replaced it with 75W-90 Amsoil Severe Gear Synthetic EP Lubricant. It has been working out much better than I expected. I am sold on Amsoil as my rear differential runs cooler pulling a load than my rear ends in my other 2500 Ford trucks did running empty over the same 200 mile stretch.

The Amsoil ATF I replace the factory trany fluid with in my 6 speed trany and in the transfer case is functioning superbly.

mchildress

I have 75-90 royal purple in both front and rear axles, mobile 1 atf in transfer case, and penzoil syncro mesh in the 6 speed and have not heard or had any problems.

FAY

The following explanation, while not an automotive application, shows the effectiveness of Amsoil grease. I have a Tanaka straight shaft 40cc heavy duty weed eater that uses the heaviest gauge of plastic cutting twine available. For years I used Shell and Esso greases to lubricate the head gears. Every time I would use the machine for extended periods of time in thistle patches, etc., then the heavy twine in the spool would fuse together wherever it overlapped in the spool bobbin from the excessive heat generated from the twine beating the mature thistle stocks and from the friction in the head gears under a severe load. I always had to tear the fused twine apart in the spool to get more twine when the expossed twine wore away. The operator's manual for the Tanaka recommended greasing the head every 75 hours, but only sparingly, because too much grease injected into the head would be forced up the shaft to the clutch. I put a couple grease gun shots into the head everytime I used the machine for heavy work to combat friction, but heat still built up to the point that when used in damp vegetation the heat building up within the head would cause steam to rise from the wet vegetation. Always, the reserve twine fused together in places while laying stationary in the spool.

This summer I started using Amsoil Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease NLGI #2 in the heavy duty weed eater head gears. I am so amazed at the cool operation of the head and the absence of fused twine. Besides, this is one of the hottest summers we have ever had in Alberta. I am so impressed with Amsoil products that I am going to repack the front wheel bearings in our two wheel drive GMC gasoline powered pickup truck with Amsoil grease later this summer. Eventually, I will post a message on this thread if I notice any improvement with Amsoil grease in the wheel bearings. Shell grease was used the last time I repacked the same wheel bearings. I rate grease effectiveness by how much gease remains available to lubricate the wheel bearings after X number of miles run.

FAY

Well, I now periodically have a big job during the summer for the compressor that I assembled and fabricated parts for and started on trial operations last summer. Previously I had a brand new Campbell Hausfeld Extreme Duty twin cylinder portable with a 15 gallon air tank that had around a 5.5 to 6.5 Cubic Feet per Minute air output on a 1/4" air line. The 6.5 CFM could not steadily operate a die grinder with a thin cut-off disk cutting a light piece of steel, and it could not do a decent job blowing the dust out of the radiators in the farm field machinery. I gave the Campbell Hausfeld compressor to my son.

I belt linked together a 18.5 CFM three cylinder air pump rotated by a 5 HP 230 Volt 21 ampere electric motor. The air pump is rated at a maximum 150 psi output. I mounted them on a 15 gallon horizontal air tank pressure tested for 250 psi to have portability around the farm, and I fabricated the four rubber tire wheel suspension under the tank. I also fabricated a belt guard, handle and side basket with power cord hanger. A 1/4" female air coupling, a 1/4" air shut off ball valve, air pressure regulator with air gauge, air pressure switch cut-off regulator at 150 psi., an air gauge, a 230V manual power switch and an internal tank foot valve were plumbed and wired by myself before I plumbed a tee into the tank foot valve output to supply both a 1/4" feed and a 3/8" feed. The 3/8" line goes to a 3/8" air shut off ball valve and then directly to a 3/8" female air coupling to supply a 3/8" air line. When the 1/4" line is used the 3/8" ball valve remains closed and when the 3/8" line is used the 1/4" ball valve remains closed.

For a few day I first operated the new compressor air pump with fresh Campbell Hausfeld compressor oil periodically on odd jobs in my shop and then I drained out the oil to get the machine fillings out of the new air pump. I installed more of the same brand oil and noticed the air pressure gauge showed a power cut off at 150 psi and then immediately a settled down steady reading of 145 psi when the air pump stopped and before any pressure was taken from the tank. The compressor was used for odd jobs in the shop for over three weeks and then the tractor engine coolant radiator was blown out with the 3/8" line for a duration of half an hour to get the oil very hot and then it was drained out again. Compressing the air really got the air pump cooling fines hot and the 3/8" air line bulged in a few places from the continuous hot air passing through it to the air discharge wand. I replaced the Campbell Hausfeld compressor oil with Amsoil 20 weight synthetic compressor oil. After putting Amsoil in the air pump the cut off switch still shuts the electric motor off when the air pressure on the gauge reaches 150 psi, but the pressure showing on the gauge dial after the pump comes to a stand still now shows 155 psi. With the Campbell Hausfeld compressor oil the tank pressure would never be over 145 psi, but with the Amsoil it is always 155 psi. Those reading were checked out a number of times to verify their value each time.

The 3/8" line has been only used to blow out the John Deere articulating field tractor's engine coolant radiator and its over the cab air conditioning radiator. I drilled out the orifice in a four foot long air wand to supply more air volume. With the air pressure relieved from the tank to automatically turn on the cut-in power switch and with the 3/8" air wand turned on the air pump can start and sustain pressure on the 3/8" air line for over an hour and a half to blow out the tractor radiators etc. The electric motor has to run steadily all the time the air is discharged from the air wand and the electric motor case becomes very hot. While continuously blowing out the radiators the pressure in the tank only goes up to 75 psi which does not cause the pressure switch to turn off the electric motor. When the air discharge wand is closed and put down for a short time the manul power switch on the compressor unit must be turned off to prevent the pressure in the tank from increasing and causing the pressure regulator switch to turn off the power to the electric motor automatically. A large quanity of air at 75 psi sure can move a lot of dust out of the large radiators that were designed to withstand high pressure against the special heavy duty fines. The air pump and the 3/8" air line get hot from compressing the air even with Amsoil in the pump, but not as hot as when the Campbell Hausfeld oil was used. If I did not use Amsoil in the compressor it's piston rings would be worn out in no time withstanding the long periods of operation at elevated temperatures. My next message will tell about Amsoil used in my two smaller tractors.

Raspy

You don't hear it, you feel it. And it sems kind of brutal.

I changed my fluid from the Mopar stuff to Mobil 1 75-140 and it is perfectly smooth now. Very good.

PourinDiesel

I buy 2 gallon jugs of Harvest King 85w140 @ Rural King for $18 a jug.
I can afford to change the oil whenever I feel like it and not worry about it hurting my pocket.

Oh yeah, it holds up good too! I tow 15k with my tow rig on a regular basis.

FAY

I purchased a 5 US gallon pail of Amsoil 75W-90 for $170, which figures out to about $35 a gallon. You are most definitely correct implying that Amsoil gear lube is extremely costly, as 75W-140 Amsoil would cost $210 for a 5 US gallon pail. PourinDiesel, you did not say how often you will feel like changing your gear lube; on the other hand, I am a person who is never enthused about the prospect of replacing any differential oil. Nevertheless, I do always change lube oil after the first couple thousand miles if a differential is new, and always if any vehicle is driven at moderate speed through a deep water level over the differentials. Otherwise, I do not change lube oil until anywhere from one hundred K to a couple of hundred thousand miles when a synthetic lube oil is present. With Amsoil I know heat and gear wear will be kept at a minimum, no matter how heavy a load is hauled or pulled for however long a trip happens to be, because I intend keeping this truck forever. It will see extra heavy overloads around our farm local area, and maximum legal loads the rest of the time. This pickup truck is parked in my shop and is not a daily driver, but instead a work truck. I should have a 4500 or 5500 and I am looking for Dodge to get them on the market, even though I am not looking forward to a 6.7 liter Cummins hindered with pollution equipment.

Regarding the high initial cost for lubrication, I just console myself with the thought that I will eventually benefit in the long run from running Amsoil, far beyond what I have to pay for that superior product. Expensive maintenance is cheap for me when compared to the inconvenience and cost of future repairs. I hate unexpected break downs in locations that cause me much hassle. I am just a person that dislikes half measures.

PourinDiesel

Hey whatever it takes to justify $35 a gallon gear oil

Mine works just fine, and I do work my equipment!