Modded Jeep Liberty Canister/Fuel Module
01-28-2008, 05:29 PM
#16
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That's what I thought... If I went thru the hassle of dropping my tank again, I'd gut out the canister and make it the way I see fit. I carry a spare pump that I can swap out in minutes anyway...
01-28-2008, 05:32 PM
#17
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That's the beauty of a Walbro pump. Takes just a couple minutes to change one out in the event of a failure.
01-28-2008, 06:02 PM
#18
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True - but for the record, flow outta the Dodge lift pump module could also be improved by eliminating that 1/4" elbow, making the line fully 3/8" from the pump to the filter - if regulated pressure remains constant, flow volume can be improved by eliminating any restriction, which is increasing the area.
FYI - the flapper is a one-way valve operated by the mass-density of the fuel outside the cup vs lighter aerated fuel density inside the cup - aerated fuel is lighter than non-aerated fuel (and warm return-fuel is lighter than cool in-tank fuel), thus the raw fuel outside the cup will open the flapper, forcing the lighter fuel upward, ensuring good fuel supply at the fuel pickup, next to the valve - this is based on the 'any liquid will seek it's own level' concept from.......you guessed it: Science 101.
So, don't worry about the flapper-valve, unless your draw-straw is on top of it, holding it closed
FYI - the flapper is a one-way valve operated by the mass-density of the fuel outside the cup vs lighter aerated fuel density inside the cup - aerated fuel is lighter than non-aerated fuel (and warm return-fuel is lighter than cool in-tank fuel), thus the raw fuel outside the cup will open the flapper, forcing the lighter fuel upward, ensuring good fuel supply at the fuel pickup, next to the valve - this is based on the 'any liquid will seek it's own level' concept from.......you guessed it: Science 101.
So, don't worry about the flapper-valve, unless your draw-straw is on top of it, holding it closed
01-28-2008, 06:48 PM
#19
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I believe you could but you would have to remove the in tank pump from the canister. I think there is a "flapper" or something that is controlled electronically and it messes with the flow. At least that's what I gathered from it. The only downfall I see to the Jeep canister install is that if something ever happens to the aftermarket lift pump, you would not have a temporary back up until you get the aftermarket unit fixed.I disabled the Airdog150 and the cp3 was able to get 7.5 psi on its own so even if the airdog fails it's all good On the other hand, not too many aftermarket lift pumps fail.
01-28-2008, 06:51 PM
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01-28-2008, 06:58 PM
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True - but for the record, flow outta the Dodge lift pump module could also be improved by eliminating that 1/4" elbow, making the line fully 3/8" from the pump to the filter - if regulated pressure remains constant, flow volume can be improved by eliminating any restriction, which is increasing the area.
By looking at the pics it appears the outlet elbow is already 3/8" and the return is 1/4". Where is the 1/4" restriction in the out line?
01-28-2008, 07:03 PM
#22
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. So you better know what you're doin' cause if you screw it up and it doesn't work right you don't have a spare 
.Maybe it's really simple, but I just wasn't ready to start dismantling the fuel pump module and praying for the best. So if you ever do yours let us know how it is done!
01-28-2008, 07:17 PM
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01-28-2008, 07:46 PM
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GMCTD and anbody else interested
True - but for the record, flow outta the Dodge lift pump module could also be improved by eliminating that 1/4" elbow, making the line fully 3/8" from the pump to the filter - if regulated pressure remains constant, flow volume can be improved by eliminating any restriction, which is increasing the area.
FYI - the flapper is a one-way valve operated by the mass-density of the fuel outside the cup vs lighter aerated fuel density inside the cup - aerated fuel is lighter than non-aerated fuel (and warm return-fuel is lighter than cool in-tank fuel), thus the raw fuel outside the cup will open the flapper, forcing the lighter fuel upward, ensuring good fuel supply at the fuel pickup, next to the valve - this is based on the 'any liquid will seek it's own level' concept from.......you guessed it: Science 101.
So, don't worry about the flapper-valve, unless your draw-straw is on top of it, holding it closedI'm not sure where the flapper is, but my guess is it's in the bottom of the canister in between the mesh holes on the underside and another piece that covers that or it's somehow connected to the plastic piece that is taking the place of the fuel pump? So what I'm saying is the slot that I squeezed the hose/drawstraw into is not the flapper valve location
FYI - the flapper is a one-way valve operated by the mass-density of the fuel outside the cup vs lighter aerated fuel density inside the cup - aerated fuel is lighter than non-aerated fuel (and warm return-fuel is lighter than cool in-tank fuel), thus the raw fuel outside the cup will open the flapper, forcing the lighter fuel upward, ensuring good fuel supply at the fuel pickup, next to the valve - this is based on the 'any liquid will seek it's own level' concept from.......you guessed it: Science 101.
So, don't worry about the flapper-valve, unless your draw-straw is on top of it, holding it closed
I'm not sure where the flapper is, but my guess is it's in the bottom of the canister in between the mesh holes on the underside and another piece that covers that or it's somehow connected to the plastic piece that is taking the place of the fuel pump? So what I'm saying is the slot that I squeezed the hose/drawstraw into is not the flapper valve location
Found that link I'll post it here too http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/im...umpExposed.pdf
01-28-2008, 09:52 PM
#25
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There's a link with pics in the original 'is yer fuel tank startin' to look like swiss cheese' thread, on this forum, to Glacier Diesel, where their Dodge module was destructively tested - he was mostly right in his analysis, except for the function of the foam and the mass-differential operation of the valve - I semi-destroyed my Jeep module in working out a scheme for replacing the filter screen cage with a lift pump, rather than purchasing the hi-buck module - but yeah, you're right: the one-way flapper valve is under a screen in both modules - the draw-straw could possibly even enhance valve operation, if it were properly centered over the screen - for the theory of operation, it's simple Science 101
01-28-2008, 10:25 PM
#26
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PT, several differing measurements are used for line used for moving some substance from one place to another -
- tubing is measured on the outside diameter, or o.d., so when you say 3/8" tubing, you're not talking about the area the fluid flows thru, which is the inside diameter - the i.d is determined by wall thickness of the tube - f'rinstance the injection lines on your truck appear to be ~5/16" dia - if you removed the ball from your ball-pen, you could barely fit the ball into the end of the hi-pressure injection tubing - tubing is everything from your injection lines to fuel and brake lines to exhaust "pipe" to the large axle tubes on your differential(s) - for automotive use, hard steel tubing is often called 'pipe', where plastic is called tubing - (rubber is called hose, which is measured by i.d. so it will fit over tubing)
- pipe, on the other hand, is measured on the i.d., so when you say 1/2" water pipe, the o.d. is ~3/4" - there also, wall thickness determines the area available for flow, but just like tubing, increased wall thickness reduces the i.d., because 1/2"npt is always 1/2"npt, no matter how thick the walls - so, 1/2" 150psi water pipe is nominally 1/2" i.d. - 1/2" 10000psi pipe is ~1/4" i.d.
So, as mentioned, you gotta look at the hole in the fitting, rather than the outside, because fuel flows thru the hole, not around the outside - at least, it works out way better for us if it doesn't flow around the outside - whadda waste, right?
- tubing is measured on the outside diameter, or o.d., so when you say 3/8" tubing, you're not talking about the area the fluid flows thru, which is the inside diameter - the i.d is determined by wall thickness of the tube - f'rinstance the injection lines on your truck appear to be ~5/16" dia - if you removed the ball from your ball-pen, you could barely fit the ball into the end of the hi-pressure injection tubing - tubing is everything from your injection lines to fuel and brake lines to exhaust "pipe" to the large axle tubes on your differential(s) - for automotive use, hard steel tubing is often called 'pipe', where plastic is called tubing - (rubber is called hose, which is measured by i.d. so it will fit over tubing)
- pipe, on the other hand, is measured on the i.d., so when you say 1/2" water pipe, the o.d. is ~3/4" - there also, wall thickness determines the area available for flow, but just like tubing, increased wall thickness reduces the i.d., because 1/2"npt is always 1/2"npt, no matter how thick the walls - so, 1/2" 150psi water pipe is nominally 1/2" i.d. - 1/2" 10000psi pipe is ~1/4" i.d.
So, as mentioned, you gotta look at the hole in the fitting, rather than the outside, because fuel flows thru the hole, not around the outside - at least, it works out way better for us if it doesn't flow around the outside - whadda waste, right?
01-28-2008, 11:46 PM
#27
ANY aftermarket external pump could be bypassed or changed just as quick as a walbro....you just need to have a plan on how you want to do it in advance...
01-29-2008, 07:46 AM
#28
Chapter President
My 03 has the retro in-tank conversion. Is there any reason why the Liberty canister/module won't fit in my 03 tank? Some say the 04.5 and up tank is different and the modules will not interchange between the two but I can't find any information as to why....anybody know? They sure do look like they would interchange to me.
01-29-2008, 07:48 AM
#29
Chapter President