Also the switch to and from the mitusa to lift pump is seamless, no shudder or miss. I have a red led light to tell me when the electric pump is on. Tim

 

The fuel pickup problem is the only thing keeping me from buying this setup as well as others..

Seriously what is the point of all these bombs if they only work if you have over 1/4 tank fuel.

Do you guys just hope you never need full power if your below 1/4 tank.

Better scratch the idea of running a small amount of fuel on track days to save weight and hopefully a bombed d-max wont blow smoke on you on the way to the fuel station which you now have to freqent more often due to this whole pick up problem.

I cant understand how this is still a problem, but we've seem to overcome everything else. 1280rwhp no problem, 850rwhp no drugs no problem, 10 second CR, no problem, twin turbos, twin cp3 ect........ but we still cant fix this problem.

I really hope some smart guy out there can figure out how to suck fuel from a tank low on fuel. Oh and still be able to run a Fluidamper....

I know im not the only out there that cant aford to fill er up when its $3.79 a gallon.

Come on guys.... is it realy that hard to do on a part that already retails for $800

 

I think there are some ways to run with a mechanical pump with ¼ tank or less. I am with SlowSixSpeed however and have not moved forward with this until I get it ironed out. One approach could be to use the fuel canister from and 05 or 06 jeep crd. It is just like the one in the late model trucks that have the pump in the tank except without the pump. Then you could use the factory (jeep) pickup tube. The issue with that is that you would have to manually spin the MITUSA after a fuel filter change. I was toying with the idea of placing a new fuel supply tube inside the factory fuel canister and run the electric pump full time to draw fuel into the canister as Dodge designed it. Then draw fuel for the MITUSA from there.

 

What is the price difference between the two?

 

Opie told me he had a set-up for the mitusa that allowed for the fluid damper?????I was going to call him to get the rest of the details but I was not ready to buy at the time.......he said he had one that mounts up top by the CP3.yes????, no?????

 

Here is a potential solution I've been brainstorming on to solve the sloshing problem on the stock tank. The only downside to this approach is that you unfortunately have to purchase or fabricate the surge tank shown in the picture, and find a place to mount it. (I'm probably going to mount mine in the bed of the truck inside a toolbox, but that's still TBD. I haven't seen any better alternatives yet.)

The good thing about this approach is that the surge tank *should* never run out of fuel (depending on how big you make yours) or get low enough to allow air into the fuel lines. Hence, you should be able to go WOT irregardless of how much fuel is in the stock tank.

BTW, the theory in the drawing is that the stock pump and the return line are both acting together to keep the surge tank full of fuel. It also helps if the supply line on the surge tank is drawing from the bottom via a sump instead of a pick up tube to further reduce the chance of sloshing problems and air in the lines.

Any opinions/feedback on this? Any better solutions out there, aside from replacing the stock tank all together?

 

Something Richard at GDP told me, when you run your tank down to 1/8th or below, the fuel remaining gets hot. This is due to the fuel being returned to the tank from the CP3, rail and injectors-there is a substancial amount of heat being transferred from these parts to the fuel.
I got my Fuel boss going last night with the 2 micron filtering and F/W seperator. I put a $2 green LED on the dash to show when the elec. pump is running. So when I start it up, it takes about 10 seconds to go out when the Fuel Boss pressurizes the system. I like it so far.
Over on GDP's site, they took apart a stock lift pump. Apparently about 1/2 of the volumne was wasted with some type of venturi. If that could be 'fixed', it'd be a better lift pump. When I pulled the lift pump out (to put the other fuel drawstraw in) I could see that the stock lift pump had a slight advantage being slightly lower, but I can't see it being 1/8th of a tank lower. I would think it could pick up the last gallon better but that's it.
Guess I'll watch the 'lil green light as I get lower in fuel and see at what point it comes on.

 

I think I'm going with a Walbro system. I had a FASS in my last truck, and I got used to having only 25 useable gallons...

As far as not being able to fill the tank, why not do what I do? I go to the fuel station at 1/2 tank or so. That way I get a full tank before the $75 limit kicks in on the atm card. Yesterday I filled at a bit over 1/4 tank and it cost $100 exactly

 

anybody wanna share some feedback on my fancy drawing a few posts back?

just curious if anyone has any other suggestions or things they would change, and opinions on whether it will fix the problem or not.

 

I'm sure it would work just fine, depending on how long you're demanding more fuel than the stock l/p can provide to the second tank. Probably not a problem for drag racers or pullers, but if you're hammering down on a big grade, it may not work so well. You may have a case where the little tank runs dry while your big tank is still full. I don't know how much fuel flows back to the tank from the CP3. Probably depends on the size of your sticks.

 

With the mechanical drive pumps wether it be the Mitusa or its copy the Fuel boss,do you have to fabricate any mounts or pulleys to run with the dual cp3kits.

The dmax crowd has the same problem with low fuel here is one persons solution---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I installed the Mitusa lift pump on my truck along with a trippin pick-up back in the spring. My truck would run out of fuel at a quarter tank, limiting my travel time, and flat p1ssing me off.

During the off season, I unhooked the pump to see if it was a pickup problem or pump sucking too much fuel out of the bowl.

Truck ran down past empty with pump unhooked, "O.K. it's the pump". I then hooked the pump back up and removed the Mitusa return line from the filler neck and plumbed into the 1/2" fuel supply line coming from the tank. Problem solved, thanks 1000hp for the suggestion. Fuel pressure didn't increase either

Most likely work for the FASS problem also.

Thought I'd post findings.

Take care,
Rob


This was on the dieselplace.


Eric

 

I think it would work. I don’t like the down side of taking up truck bed space with the transfer tank. I also like to keep the ability to prime the fuel system after a filter change with the factory electric pump.

 

Eric the Chevs and Dodges are two different scenarios. The Chev LB7 caught me by surprise on this. And actually the fix for it was incorperated in both the LB7 and LLY kits afterwards. That fix was to intall a street tee at the aft line of the fuel cooler and have the Mitusa return there. It is actually a simple fix for the Dodges but there is more than one way to skin a chicken. I am sure GDP wont have any problem coming up with their own fix.

53 ****** the bracket kit you are in question over is only for twin CP3 trucks.

 

oops I thought you had one for the single cp3's too after our last chatguess I misunderstood sorry.....opie you should make a bracket kit to fit the Mitusa pump up top so it can be used with the fluid damper......I bet you could sell even more just based on that......thanks for setting me straight.
sorry if I misled anybody on thisnow I feel bad...i have told a few people it works with a fluid damper

 

So moving the return line so that it feeds into the supply line is the fix for dodges? or are you saying there is another fix? If so, what is it??