garbri

Geez, with all of the lift pump talk in this forum, you'd think I'd be an expert by now. Actually, quite the opposite has happened. Lift pump overload has me scratching my head, as searching the past posts brings up so much confusion and information.

So for a noobie on the lift pump topics, can someone clarify:

1) which years have the crappy stock lift pumps

2) describe the pros and cons of removing the stock filter cannister

3) recommend an aftermarket lift pump and filter for a truck that shouldn't see more than 450 HP.

Thanks, I know these questions have been answered before. It's just that with the changes in pumps and trucks over the years I don't want to follow someone's suggestion only to find out it won't work with my truck.

Thanks again,
garrett

shortbed rv

the 2004.5 came with a canister mounted pump. This pump does not hold pressure at wot as well as the 2005 and up in tank pump. The good news is the canister mounted pump is easier to upgrade.

cheapeast pump is a holley knockoff procomp( ebay), just splice the pump inline.

Next would be a Holley, just remember to remove the screen in the bottum of the pump and use a prepump filter.

Then you can go with a Walbro but you will need a bypass type regulator spliced into the retun line.

If you want a better filter system try airdog. Then you need to decide if you want 100 or the 150.

rip 112

The Airdog 100 is good to 550+ hp, can handle much more considering I'm dang close or beyond 500 and my Fuel Pressure drops from 15 to only 14psi. I like the Water separator and the better filtration of the aidog, Cleaner fuel with less air means more usable power and better mileage when driven right. the main thing that would lure me into buying one (which i already have) is the lifetime warranty that comes with it.

53 willys

Fixed it for yah...

rip 112

Thanks Mark, went ahead and edited it.

garbri

Hey thanks for the replies! So, if I go with the Airdog 100, do I remove the stock lift pump? Do I need to install a draw straw and all new plumbing as well?

Thanks again!
garrett

ptgarcia

I'd go with a system that retains the factory fuel tank module. I'd try to avoid anything requiring a draw straw be installed.

rip 112

Garrett,

The stock drawstraw can be retained. The Airdog will give you everything you need all the way to the quick connects on the CP-3 and tank. I left my stock pump and canister intact, the Airdog will bypass that, but plug in to the stock harnesses. The Airdog will replace all of your fuel line to 1/2 inch. It is a very well thought up kit, I was satisfied with the hardware and instructions.

Rick

Fisherguy

But you should plumb the AD return line into the canister or you'll have problems when you get down to ¼ tank, (or at least I did anyhow.)
Here's how I got around it:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=208226

rip 112

Haven't heard of that one...I haven't had no issues whatsoever bypassing mine, and I draw mine down below 1/8 tank quite abit. But it can be possible.

N.Johnson

So after fours years on this site the air dog is all that and a bag of chips! Lift pumps are in and out of favor like politics. First it was the BD lift pump, then some guys figured a carter (same pump) would work with some creative plumbing and filter canisters. Next came the Fass complete system in 2003, while the father and son (started fass/air dog) duked it out in court, walbro pump arrived on the scene (more plumbing artistry). Don't forget the mitsu belt driven pumps ( you are your own plumber). I can relate how confusing it can be choosing a lift pump after reading all the history on dodge cummins lift pumps. Maybe I could add my two bits. In 2004 I went with the fass sucking off the stock pick-up tank tube, because I could buy the replacement fleetguard filters at cummins. Have run my tank down to wet farts without a hick-up ( unlike airdog). Maybe with air dog you can now buy filters other than theirs, not sure. At the time the only option was airdog filters. Anyway that's all history, my point is you want filtration and a fuel pressure gauge down steam after the filters. At first I by-passed the stock canister and ran the supply hose from the fass right to the cp3, worked great. Then I had some spooky starting/running conditions in northern canada arctic winters. Decided to experiment and run the fass hose to the factory canister with its fuel heater and ( useless ) water sensor. Turned out to not affect performance at all and fuel pressure measured from a tapped banjo bolt on the cp3 inlet measured the same? So my rig is a mild 375 hp at the wheels with a stock turbo and tranny. I have three fuel filters , fleetguard 144 micron water/fuel, then fleetguard hydraulic 3 micron followed by the stock canister 7 micron/water filter with the 750 watt heater and water sensor ( did I mention it's useless?). Kind of seems backwards the micron downstream filtration levels...I know. So whats the point? Well according to Bosch they wanted at least 5 micron filtration, mother mopar couldn't make that with their weak pump, so mopar first went with 10 micron. Then the 2004.5 came out with increased rail pressure/third event and many injector related failures started costing them. So out came the revised in tank lift pump and 7 micron canister filter. So far so good as long as your stock. Up the ponies and here we are...............keeping the truck long term add a lift pump and extra filters. Trading soon don't bother just add a gauge unless your running big ponies.

Fisherguy

Rip, did you use the factory draw from the canister and plumb the return into the filler neck? I imagine you have FP guauge?
Some people have used the new draw straw into the tank, got it right and not had a problem, it seems more people DO have problems though, (I guess it's hard to get the length of it just right) so I decided to try the stock (Liberty) canister but had problems with a little more than ¼ tank, the engine wouldn't stall cuz it the CP3 would draw from the AD filter but I could see the pump starving for fuel on my FP gauge. Re-routing the AD return to the canister cured it though.

NJ, you can get new filters (down to 3 micron) and new water seperator for the AirDogs from Cummins which happens to be 10 minutes from my house.
I was worried about by-passing my fuel filter housing as well but from what I've read here people have not had a problem. It would be pretty simple to plumb it back in though I spose, but it seldon gets real cold here in the Vancouver area. Could you run the stock filter housing with no filter in it? (Seems kinda pointless to run a 7 micron downstream of a 3.)

I'd thought about a Holley or a BD pump but heard the BD is just a Carter and was not something to rely on.

All I know is I can run CL and not see my FP dip to zero anymore so I'm happy.

rip 112

It has the original drawstraw. Being I have a 04 i didn't have to drop the tank, just wedge my hand in the top and connect the quick-connects. I do have a FP gauge, its tied into the fuel line with a tee, it shows almost 16psi with pulls down to 14 at wot. I believe some of the main problems are coming from the 05-07? I've run the AD over 10k miles now and it has performed flawlessly, no 1/4 tank issues.

Fisherguy

So you AD return goes to the filler neck then?..
... and you're not having any problems, wow, how come I had such crappy luck then?!

Must be the newer canisters (04.5 and newer?) that's causing it then?

rip 112

Yes it goes to the filler neck. No problems.

posted a pic of the return at the filler neck. I'm pointing at it.