OK, I think I have found everything I need concerning the probe install (gonna go the grease, vacuum, magnet method) for my brand new 2005 3500 4X4 dually (it's awesome). I do have several questions though:

1) Where should I mount the little black box, inside the cab or outside?
2) Does anyone know the wire color for the positive lead light hook up?
3) Will any good ground work for the negative lead wire light hook up?
3) What color wire (and where do I find it) for the ignition (positive lead for the gauge)?
4) I also assume any good ground will work for the ground lead wire from the gauge correct?
5) What size drill bit is the best for making the final hole on the probe - I have seen 7/16, 13/32 and 27/64?
6) The extension wire that connects the probe to black box has one end with just the wires and the other end has a sealed end that is off-white with the two leads wires coming out of that. Does it make any difference how this wire is connected? (hope that made sense)

I am mounting the gauge on the A-pillar using a new A-pillar that holds a single gauge.

Thanks for your time, I really appreciate it

Mac

 

Just received mine, i have all the same questions,about the same gauge ,not much info with the gauge that helps me.

 

I've got a 2nd gen, but just put Isspro's on mine.
1- I put the black box in the cab. It simply rest on what looks like is the airbag box. I planned on zip-tying it, but it rests on top of it, and it ;'hangs' on an exposed stud. Basically anywhere inside should work.
2- To provide lighted power to the gauges, I used a fuse tap (from the spinny rack of electrical parts at NAPA, don't bother going to AutoZone) on the fuse for dash lighting. It was #5 for my 2nd Gen.
3-ground is ground
3(b)-my truck had a spare fuse slot (#16 2nd gen). I hooked the voltmeter up and found it to be switched power...bonus! Emailed Isspro, and they said a 10amp fuse would be good for the pyro box, so I put one in and another fuse tap, voila.
4- see my reply to your first #3
5-Depends on the probe size...either a Q (0.332") for 1/8"NPT or 7/16" for 1/4" NPT. mine was the bigger one.
6- My thermocouple had a plug-in connector, sounds like yours has the ring terminals. The other end of my lead-wire had white 'sheathing' to slide over the ring terminals/nuts/screws. This was on the black box side, but I had a weatherproof connector on the thermocouple end.
Hope that helps...

 

Yep that was just what I was looking for thank you very much

Just one more question...your fuse box is in the engine compartment correct? And you just ran the wires to that fusebox and used a fuse tap?

Thanks again
Mac

 

Ahhhhhh......life is good..................Pyro is in without a hitch
Just took the drilling of the manifold real slow and easy used my shop vac and when I was just about ready to punch though I switched to grease. Then I used a magnet to gather up any small particles that dropped in. Used grease on tap and cleaned it about every two turns. Made all the connections and then spent another 45 minutes installing wire loom and zip ties so everything looked neat and clean.

I bought one of those wire testers to find the right wires since I did not want to run the wires out to the fuse box. Used the cigarette lighter plug for the hot and the orange/brown stripe wire for the lights. There is a great place for ground under the dash and to the right - can't miss it
Used zip ties to secure the black box up under the dash - there are several places to do that. Put the new A-piilar and gauge in (after testing to ensure the gauge and light worked) and it looks sweet.


Thanks for the help...could not have done it with out it

Mac
2005 3500 4X4 Dually

 

Well, I see you alread finished so good for you!
Now about the fuse box, I don't know about the 3rd gens, but the 2nd gens have a fuse box (officially called something like a Power Distributoin Center) underhood for major amperage things, and a traditional fuse box on the side of the intrument panel. You open the drivers-side door and its right there.

 

This thread is a month old but I just installed my Isspro pyro gauge and thought I'd share what I did. The instructions that came with the gauge from Geno's were lacking.

In addition to using the grease method on the drill and tap, I learned a good trick from another thread on this forum. I ran the engine for a couple seconds to blow any junk through the turbo and then removed the intake tube (after blowing the area clean with high-pressure air) and spun the turbine to verify that the turbo still spun OK.

I ran the wire loom through the huge rubber grommet on the firewall near the master cylinder. That grommet pulls out and goes back in very easily. It has an inner and outer passage. I opted for the outer passage but had to poke a hole through a portion of the grommet that is inside the cab. The inner passage had too many wires in it already. The batteries apparently have enough juice in them to cause a tingle/shock on a sweaty arm. Put a dry towel over the batteries when working over them.

I pulled the kick panel out (just snaps out starting from the back end) to make it easier to run the wires and low and behold there is a nice ground right behind it.

The plastic dash piece that holds the headlight switch and A/C vent pulls right out. That is where I found the Orange wire with Brown stripe for the lighting.

For power I found a large (10 or 8 gauge?) pink wire with a yellow stripe for switched +12v right by the emergency brake pedal.

 

Hey handymantim,

I just wanted to let you know that I appreciate that you went back in and updated the thread. This info has helped.

Thanks!