justin mcfall

Love my CFM+ intake.

seafish

Hey texsboy73, can you tell us all where and who did the extrusion and honing and about how much it cost? My AFE from the factory is way too rough on the inside and I would love to do something about it??

Also, Eric@TVP, I am wondering if you would consider dynoing the GDP with and without a heater delete?? I would consider buying one and shipping it to you if you wanted to do something like that. Thanks,
Clark

231jasons

Seafish, you could easily DIY with a dremel a flexable shaft. A little time is all you need. Ive seen them and they are rough to say the least.

I just installed my ATS and its way smother inside. Im going to port it to match my WINspeed heater grid soon, there is about a 1/4 edge hanging over the spacer that could be smoothed out for a better transition.

Anyone had there intakes ceramic coated to give a smooth surface and avoid heat soak?

rip 112

No, that's why I went with the CFM+, to help with the heat.

Erik@LCD

Jason, ceramic coating is a cool idea, I have a place that does it, could even do it inside and out which would smooth out the inside of even the aFe.

I would be happy to test a GDP or Banks if somebody has one in the area or wants to send me one. I looked around for one when I was testing, but couldn't come up with one and figured that the 3 I tested were different enough from one another and represented different theories of design.

But my dyno mule is always available for more testing!

rip 112

So Erik, do you think that my truck would be similar to yours powerwise? If so, they aren't half bad numbers.

Erik@LCD

Other than mine was an SO when it started, the Smarty should have evened that out anyway. I am maxing at 33-34lbs of boost, but that is about all the stock turbo is happy with anyway. Sounds like we should be close!

rip 112

I'm with you Erik. My turbo is also pushing 34-35psi, holding strong. Good to know!!!!

seafish

Well I decided to return my Bladerunner (see pix for why) and I just ordered a GDP intake horn and grid heater delete block from Richard at GDP. I'll have Eric dyno my stock 2005 4x4 before and after the installation and with/without the heater delete block, when he does a 30K service on my truck later this month or early Feb. Please do be PATIENT for the results, as it's gonna take me a while to get away from the family and get down to Eriks shop. His shop is 4 hours away from where I live. It should be fun AND informative!!!

BBell

anxiously awaiting results :-)
I have a feeling I will be ordering the same setup

mitternocht

Yea there is definitely something wrong with that casting; especially around the boss you are showing. The rest is a bit uneven, but probably won’t hurt anything.

I bought the GDP horn too. I like his unit because it has ears for mounting his 2-micron filter system that I already have.

Let us know what the results are. My clutch started slipping when I put mine on, lol, but maybe the Smarty Jr had something to do with it too.

seafish

What setting on Smarty Jr. were you running when the clutch started slipping?? That IS very interesting, though, if you were running the same level before the GDP add-ons and then the GDP intake horn and grid delete added enough HP/torque to slip your clutch. That would actually speak quite well of the combination in terms of its addition to HP and torque.
I will definitely let you guys know how it turns out, but like I said it's probably gonna be a few weeks before I have the time to get down there.

D45

WOW, that is really bad.

The internal casting on my Bladerunner looks nothing like that!

seafish

Yeah, I know--I have other pix I didn't even post that show more roughness.
I do have I high hopes for the GDP intake horn--it seems to be extremely well made and is the same tubing size as what flows through the intercooler. It will be very interesting to see what my truck dynos at before and after. I may try to coordinate with someone to meet me there with a Smarty Jr. so we can see how that effects the numbers on an otherwise stock truck with the GDP horn and delete block. I do hope Erik is up for it like he says. I am going to have him doing a 30k service on my truck anyway. Should be good fun.

mitternocht

I was running the Jr on level 2. I could get it to slip anywhere from around 1700 to 2500 RPM, (I didn’t try any higher). Before I put the GDP horn (only the horn, I left in the stock grid heater) on I had the Jr on level 1 then level 3 for a few days. I didn’t notice any slipping on 1 or 3, but I didn’t run 3 for very long (just a few days to work and back).

I have the GV overdrive so ~1700/1750 is around 70 MPH going down the highway. It will slip if I get in it at that speed/RPM.

Back at stock then up to Jr level 1 I can’t get it to slip at all. I know my clutch is getting weak and the Smarty puts out a lot of low end torque. It is possible that in intake horn gives it just enough more low end torque to overcome the stocker.

UPS just dropped off my new Southbend tonight so I’ll be all set.

I’m not sure what is up with these guys that aren’t impressed with the Jr. At highway speeds in double OD with the truck stock it doesn’t accelerate much when you get in to it. With the Jr the truck takes right off from 1750/70.