Installing Valve Springs
#1
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Installing Valve Springs
My gf just got the TNTr update, and bought some F1 vsprings, and when we took her truck up to Texas Diesel Power, I asked him how long it would take. He said 3-4 days and I asked why. He told me because he had to pull the head to do it, and while the head was off he was gonna get it milled before he put it back in. Now John is a standup guy, and knows his stuff, but I didn't think you had to pull the head to swap the valve-springs. What all does it take to do valve springs? Correct me if I'm wrong, but was he just BSing her to get more money,cause I coulda sworn you don't have to pull the head to do springs. I was planning on doing them on mine pretty soon, but I was going to do them myself
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You shouldn't need to pull the head to install springs. You only need the valve spring compressor tool. Run a search on here I know there are links to the product within DTR.
Now not sure what your guys talking about with "milling" the head. Maybe he's going to do work on the valve seats? I know when I talked to my engine guy one of the things he brought up was possible working on the valve seats when we put in the injectors, studs, and springs. Maybe someone else might have another reason/excuse why they would want to mill the head.
Now not sure what your guys talking about with "milling" the head. Maybe he's going to do work on the valve seats? I know when I talked to my engine guy one of the things he brought up was possible working on the valve seats when we put in the injectors, studs, and springs. Maybe someone else might have another reason/excuse why they would want to mill the head.
#4
He's talking about decking the head.No need to pull the head if she doesn't have a leaking headgasket.Just get the tool that compresses all 4 at one time.Source Automotive sells them.Should take about 3-5hrs depending on your wrenching ability.
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Thats what I was thinking. Plus you've gotta buy the head gasket and everything. I dono why he said that, but I'm definatly gona ask him about it. Just wanted to make sure I was right before I did
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Just had mine done and they left the head on. Not too sure why you would need to take it off, but nobody recommends head removal for springs...BTW, I paid for 5hrs time!!
#11
you roll the cylinder you are doing to TDC, there is VERY little quench area. when you remove the retainers and springs, the valves just sit on top of the crowns. they only drop down about 1/8".
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It took me about five hours with the source tool....that included the final torque on the head studs.
mcolectd,
When do you plan on installing the springs? Shoot me a PM where to send the tool.....You are more than welcome to use it. Just FYI...You have to pull the rail, back out the injector tubes and pull the injectors to use the tool.... It's pretty sweet! Let me know.
#13
when decking the head, they only remove the minimum material needed to acheive flatness... less than 0.010" it wont matter to piston clearance unless it is done wrong.
you do have to remove the injectors, you dont have to remove the rail or tubes..
you unbolt the rail, unbolt the injector line clamps, back out the connector tube nuts until they are completely unthreaded, remove the injectors, and start changing springs...
the least amount of connections you disturb, the better.
you do have to remove the injectors, you dont have to remove the rail or tubes..
you unbolt the rail, unbolt the injector line clamps, back out the connector tube nuts until they are completely unthreaded, remove the injectors, and start changing springs...
the least amount of connections you disturb, the better.
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Thank yall for the input. I didn't know the exact details, but I was pretty sure about alot of it, and I knew you didn't have to take the head off to do springs. He just made me second guess myself
#15
when decking the head, they only remove the minimum material needed to acheive flatness... less than 0.010" it wont matter to piston clearance unless it is done wrong.
you do have to remove the injectors, you dont have to remove the rail or tubes..
you unbolt the rail, unbolt the injector line clamps, back out the connector tube nuts until they are completely unthreaded, remove the injectors, and start changing springs...
the least amount of connections you disturb, the better.
you do have to remove the injectors, you dont have to remove the rail or tubes..
you unbolt the rail, unbolt the injector line clamps, back out the connector tube nuts until they are completely unthreaded, remove the injectors, and start changing springs...
the least amount of connections you disturb, the better.