Im going by Shanes write up and his play by play phone tag. LOl

 

That guy did a KILLER job of how to...... That was mighty nice of him to take the time to explain everything. A blind person could almost do it, going off his notes.........I can't write enough, as ya can see.

I wonder if a person can work on each cyl. at a time, do the spring and inj. same time for each cyl. as to not mess up/confuse wiring. I'm partially color blind, that's why I want to work one cyl. and move to the next, completing as I go. So I don't mix wiring with another. Is this possible?? As I'm typing this and remembering the pics./comments, I think it is..........Do the ones that are tdc, then rotate...........

 

I'm the same way with colors....Thank God for Sharpies! I numbered...dotted and marked what I could to remember where it went back. I just marked the injector connector with a dot on the exhaust side...I numbered the injectors....bridges...rockers....etc. I think I could do it blindfolded now! LOL!

 

I haven't opened up the valve cover yet........which push rod is the exh.?? I looked at the pics. and can't tell which is which......I'm replacing the exh. pushrods. When I pull the cover tomorrow, is it obvious??

 

the exhaust pushrods and rockers are the ones BEHIND the injector. The exhaust rocker is the longer one of the two that reaches over to the exhaust side of the engine. pretty simple

 

After I posted, I went in to shower and was going over the pics./comments in my mind and the pic. of the rockers in place popped the answer to myself.

It was obvious, valves closer to exh. is exh. and so on.........

When I asked the quest., I was thinking of the pic. with nothing on but the pushrods.

!st time for me opening up valve cover on a diesel and changing springs, inj. and studs. On a V-8 gas motor, the valves line up with exh./int. ports. and never have worked on a 6 banger either.

Thanks for the reply, though.........

 

hehe anytime it happens to the best of us!

 

Does anyone have/know the torque specs. for the rocker hold down and the riser bolts??

 

What I did on my inj. wires since they were in a holder for each inj. was use a small zip tie to go through nut on r.side on all of 'em.

Now, I used a sharpie to number and int.(I) or exh.(E) but after I pulled the 4th set, I noticed a little tit on the very end of the bridge on the int. on #4 then on #5 it was the exh. that had it. For now I marked them but I wonder if someone had these off in the past and mixed them up??? I don't want to disturb what I have bagged in fear of the sharpe rubbing off, if I remember tomorrow when I reassemble to take note.

 

mine were the same way i dont believe it matters. Ive seen a 06 that i know for a fact it hadnt been apart and they were mixed also.

 

If I remember right its 37ft.lbs for the rocker and 18ft/lbs for the riser

 

Thanks for the info.!!!!!!!!!! Ya know this is what I love about this site, helping each other on our projects/mods., what ever we are working on. Whenever any of us gets in a bind all we have to do is ask and most of the time someone has an answer.

My only regret is not finding this forum sooner...... I would of went with GOEREND TRANS. and had it done right in the 1st place with billet shafts and wouldn't have to worry about if it's going to last for a good while or not.

 

The rocker arm torque is 27 ft lbs not 37. I actually go to to 26 ftlbs. You never enjoy drilling and tapping untill you try and do #6. Just do 26ftlbs and you will be fine. The rocker arm bolts are only 8mm I use the lower number to be safe. Tim

 

Shane pm'd me with the same #'s as you just did. Thanks

Happy holidays!!!

 

While changing your springs, I found that if you wiggle the valve (I used a small needle nose) it helps set the keepers/degree locks in place. #6 is hard to get at but it's not bad if you use a mirror. I also crawled up inside the eng. bay.

After reading Shanes write up, I did #1 first to see how things went then bit the bullit and did #6 which wasn't bad at all.