Installing gagues
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Installing gagues
I'm expecting my Dipricol EGT and Boost gague any day now. I want to have all the required tools before they get here. What size drill and tap is everyone using for the dipricol. I think it said it came with both 1/8 and 1/4" thermocouples.
Also, is there a diffrence between NPT, NC, NF taps. I went to a local Sears hardware and couldnt find anything that said NPT. Are you guys using regular grease for the drill and tap or is there a special cutting grease that I need to get.
One more thing, I guess I'll use Teflon tape on the boost bolt, but what about the thermocouple. Will copper thread sealant hold up to the task.
Thanks
John
Also, is there a diffrence between NPT, NC, NF taps. I went to a local Sears hardware and couldnt find anything that said NPT. Are you guys using regular grease for the drill and tap or is there a special cutting grease that I need to get.
One more thing, I guess I'll use Teflon tape on the boost bolt, but what about the thermocouple. Will copper thread sealant hold up to the task.
Thanks
John
#2
Re: Installing gagues
Also, is there a diffrence between NPT, NC, NF taps. I went to a local Sears hardware and couldnt find anything that said NPT. Are you guys using regular grease for the drill and tap or is there a special cutting grease that I need to get.
NPT = National Pipe Thread, is a taperred thread that tightens up the more items are turned
NC = National Coarse, is a uniform thread, having fewer threads per inch than National Fine.
NF = National Fine, has many threads per inch, is a shallower, low rise thread that is used in high strength or high vibration areas to resist loosening.
For the thermocouple, use the NPT tap so the sender tightens and seals in the manifold. NC is not the same thread pitch, but I have seen it done. Also, the NPT sizing is different -- usually the 1/8 or 1/4 references the pipe inside diameter, not the size of the hole being tapped!! This means the hole is actually considerably larger to take in the wall thickness of the pipe.
Hope this helps.
NPT = National Pipe Thread, is a taperred thread that tightens up the more items are turned
NC = National Coarse, is a uniform thread, having fewer threads per inch than National Fine.
NF = National Fine, has many threads per inch, is a shallower, low rise thread that is used in high strength or high vibration areas to resist loosening.
For the thermocouple, use the NPT tap so the sender tightens and seals in the manifold. NC is not the same thread pitch, but I have seen it done. Also, the NPT sizing is different -- usually the 1/8 or 1/4 references the pipe inside diameter, not the size of the hole being tapped!! This means the hole is actually considerably larger to take in the wall thickness of the pipe.
Hope this helps.
#3
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I used a 1/4 NPT for the thermocouple. As far as sealant I used the copper sealant and have had no problems. I did not use any cutting grease or oil to tap mine. I just drilled it, taped it, and cleaned out the manifold with a strong magnet until no metal shavings were left.
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Re: npt
Originally posted by durango12
so for a 1/4 npt thermocoupler you use a 1/4 npt tap and a 7/16 drill bit right?
d12
so for a 1/4 npt thermocoupler you use a 1/4 npt tap and a 7/16 drill bit right?
d12
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All you guys that say just use a magnet and grease are taking you Turbo into you own hands (about $4500). If you want to do it right then take the extra hour and remove the trubo or atleast remove the bolts and break it away form the exhaust manifold and slide some type of cover in there then drill and tap and then use the magnet to finish getting shaving out. Make sure you take icture so you can prove it to DC when your Turbo bites the big one. This way they have to replace it and then actually have to send it in to have it torn apart to be inspected.
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All you guys that say just use a magnet and grease are taking you Turbo into you own hands (about $4500)
stock hy35w's float around on ebay new & used for the ±$500 range
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Originally posted by SuperGewl
All you guys that say just use a magnet and grease are taking you Turbo into you own hands (about $4500). If you want to do it right then take the extra hour and remove the trubo or atleast remove the bolts and break it away form the exhaust manifold and slide some type of cover in there then drill and tap and then use the magnet to finish getting shaving out. Make sure you take icture so you can prove it to DC when your Turbo bites the big one. This way they have to replace it and then actually have to send it in to have it torn apart to be inspected.
All you guys that say just use a magnet and grease are taking you Turbo into you own hands (about $4500). If you want to do it right then take the extra hour and remove the trubo or atleast remove the bolts and break it away form the exhaust manifold and slide some type of cover in there then drill and tap and then use the magnet to finish getting shaving out. Make sure you take icture so you can prove it to DC when your Turbo bites the big one. This way they have to replace it and then actually have to send it in to have it torn apart to be inspected.
I guess I would have known right away if there were any problems.
P.S... My thermocouple is on the top of the manifold a few inches forward of where the manifold goes down to bolt to the turbo. I have seen some people put it on the side of that down turn. If that is the case I would agree with supergewl to remove the turbo.
Just my opinion
John
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