Spooler

I put the new turbo on the truck last night. As they say the first one is the worst one. I'll give everybody a few tips on sweet spots for getting the turbo off and installing the new only pulling the turbo.

1. Unhook the batteries and jack up passenger side of truck installing a jack stand, and remove front tire. Install fender cover.

2. Take the plastic fender well cover off. 8mm screws and a couple of pushlocks.

3. Unhook the intake going to the turbo and lay it to the side. Loosen the turbo outlet boot, lube with a small amount of spray silicone, and remove.

4. Pre lube all exhaust bolts with PB Blaster including V-band clamps.

5. Loosen all V-band clamps with a deep well 11mm socket.

6. Remove oil inlet line with 22mm wrench.

7. From underneath truck use a 10mm impact swivel to unbolt drain tube bolts. Move it out of the way, put a rag or freezer bag over the hole.

8. From the fender, loosen front and back turbo/manifold nuts. Breaking them loose is the hardest part. Either double up a set of wrenchs or tap closed in wrench with hammer being careful. Easy to slip a wrench that is why I would only use the box end of the wrench. Size is 15mm.

9. From underneath truck use a impact 15mm swivel and a strong 3/8 drive impact or a 1/2in impact. I used a 1/2in. impact and adapted down to the 3/8 impact swivel. Takes a couple of long extension to get to the block side nuts. Very easy to do.

10. Remove turbo from the top of engine bay.

11. Undo exhaust clamps and slide the exhaust back about 3/4 in. Before you can do this you must undo the auto's tranny dipstick tube.

12. With a stud remover or doubled up nuts remove studs from block side of exhaust manifold. Re-install the shorter HTT studs all the way in. You can apply antisieze to threads to help. Remove the 2 pins in the exhaust elbo with a pair of pliers.

13. Pre lube the new turbo with new oil pouring from the top. Some will run out of the drain. That is what you want. Spin the turbo veins to work in the oil (with clean hands, no dirt in the new turbo).

14. Drop new turbo in from top of engine compartment.

15. The hardest part!!!!!! Reinstall copper gasket on new studs and slide in the turbo on the new studs. Tilt it high on the outside and under the studs on the inside. It is very tight due to the waste gate acutuator. You may have to move your exhaust elbo back a little further so check it before you acutally try installing.

16. Install the nut on the block side back stud first. You can tighten it up with a box end wrench from the fender well. Start all bolts before tightening one too much.

17. Install both bolts in the outside flange holes and start nuts. Tightening is done from the fender well area with a box end wrench.

18. The worst one to tighten. Install the front block side nut. You will need an elcheapo open end wrench for this one. Longer wrench is a pain. Tighten from engine bay area starting up high and slideing down behind the compressor housing. Takes time but it is not that bad when you find the sweet spot.

19. I didn't remove my drain tube and install it with the turbo. I have an 04.5 with a flexible drain tube so I elected to leave it in place. Install new HTT gasket and tighten from under the truck. Try to get the drain as straight as possible. Start both bolts by hand before you tighten. You want the flange to be in the same angle as the turbo for easy install. Use a 1/4 extension and swivel socket.

20. Remove oil inlet flange from old turbo. Install on new turbo inspecting the rubber o-rings. Do not use any RTV on this. NOT NEEDED due to o-rings. HTT give you an oring for the turbo side of the flange if your's looks rough. Install flexible oil feed line.

21. Slide the V-band clamp back over the exhaust elbo and new turbo. Reposition with prybar holding to tighten.

22. Tighten exhaust clamps and install a 1/4in. spacer betweent the auto dipstick tube and tranny. This should allow enough clearance between dip stick tube and exhaust.

23. Install HTT supplied connector to origninal waste get solenoid.

24. Install turbo compressor out to CAC hose and tighten.

25. Install turbo inlet tube.

26. Reinstall plastic fender well and front tire. Jack up and take off jackstand.

27. Reintall battery grounds. Double check all of your work to ensure all hoses and oil supply/returns, exhaust, is all hooked up.

28. Start truck and let it idle for at least 10min. to ensure oil to new turbo. Don't want any preworn bushing/bearings from lack of oil. Check for leaks.

29. Go for a drive and have fun. Check for leaks again double checking everything when you return.

Hope this helps any do it yourself folks get the job done easily.

Dieselhed

Cool write up. I'm getting ready to do this myself. I'll be installing a new exhaust manifold as well so maybe it won't be as tough to get to some of the bolts.

rustyshakelford

great write up. do you have any pics?

brett
2565

53 willys

Whats up with the post count numbers under your name brett???


great job spooler!!! very detailed...

rip 112

I think it was from a thread that was closed last night due to somebody excessively posting about posers.

rustyshakelford

actually, im trying to track my numbers of post that i make in each thread. i started it only minuted before that poser thread and i hope people dont think that the two are connected. its the easiest way for me to relate a date/thread count.

does anyone go back and read some of there early posts? its interesting how your opinions on certain things and knowledge of other stuff has grown.

and believe it or not, i had a whitty rebuttle to the guy on the poser thread but excersiced some restraint, i dont want to be banned twice

brett
2568

rip 112

Didn't mean to assume Brett, but I remember the poser thread last night. That guy was out of line.

rustyshakelford

i gotcha...just didnt want people to get the wrong idea. for once i wasnt trying to stir the pot. he was getting annoying

brett
2569

Spooler

Didn't take any pics. Was not about to use the wife's camera with greasy hands. She would have killed me. LOL. If you don't have all the tools by all means take off the manifold/turbo together. Much easier I would think for most folks. Boy do I miss a lift......

jmccart

I have done searches to find some info. Once I found a great thread w/quality stuff. Then later I realized I started the thread myself.

Spooler

I forgot to mention I have no problems at all with building boost. Wastegate was set at 40psi and I can hit 40psi no problems. I may bump it up a little bit in the future. Right now I don't see any need. My max EGT I can hit is 1250 with a quad Std. box set on 100 tune. With a Quad box that is excellent. They have always ran a little but no hotter than stock. I have no issues with surging pulling 10,000lbs today. It is somewhat laggy to get started with the 71 turbin but not bad. I would say get the 65 turbine if you already have a tight TC.

skynyrd

i would have to agree pictures would be a great addition to this write up!

Spooler

All i can do is take an after pic. Like I said I was not going there with the wifes camera. Didn't want to sleep outside with the dog and horses.

skynyrd

i can understand that maybe dieselhed can get some pictures for us when he does his swap.

jrussell

Having done the removal and install a couple times both ways, I would suggest removing the turbo and exhaust manifold in one piece. It seems like more work but it's so much easier. Plus it gives you the chance to replace the exhaust manifold bolts with studs. Anyone who has experienced the joys of reinstalling the individual multilayer exhaust manifold gaskets knows what I'm talking about.