I Got Hosed Or Short Hosed!
09-13-2007, 07:52 PM
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I Got Hosed Or Short Hosed!
Well heres what happened I ordered a GDP vent kit off here DTR. I guess it was sent from GDP paid for Thrursday shipment guess what no vent kit
The worst part is we are putting the FASS on in the morning at TST. I was getting it done all at one time. Now i will have to remove the bed again! Not pointing fingers but this really bites
The worst part is we are putting the FASS on in the morning at TST. I was getting it done all at one time. Now i will have to remove the bed again! Not pointing fingers but this really bites
09-13-2007, 08:00 PM
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09-13-2007, 08:29 PM
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Yea... when I worked @ the dealer$hip I found that since the BR bodies (94 & up) had only a few connectors from the frame to the bed it was faster to take the bed off the truck than to drop the fuel tank esp. if it was full of fuel and you had a bad fuel pump. Works on Dakotas too. steps as best I can remember them, I'm sure someone will chime in on anything I missed.
- Lower and remove spare tire crank assy. bar or tube where it goes through bed.. not the whole unit but the bar connecting to the winch, was one cotter pin. (not necessary on all trucks best I can remember)
- Remove the black plastic shroud thingy behind license plate
- Unhook the 2 or 3 connectors from frame to bed - more if truck has the tow package
- Unbolt frame from bed, bolts were EASY to get to with socket & extension, 6 for short bet 8 for long bed.
- Place fender covers on tires and where bumpers meet bed in the back on both sides (4 fender covers needed total) remember the bumper will stay with the frame!
- Ok... 2 medium to large size guys could lift off a short bed and it would usually take four to to a long bed, you don't actually have to lift it off you just raise it up a few inches to clear the bumper then you can set it on the tires and bumper about 8 inches to a foot back is all it takes and you now have total access to the fuel module assy. Just have to use care so you don't scratch the paint where the bed goes behind the bumper when you are moving the bed around but thats what the fender or other type of covering is for. It is the fastest way I know of to do anything with the fuel module area of the trucks. On 4X4's I didn't even use a bay with a lift, just rode around on the creeper under the truck, you could also do without a lift on many of the larger 4X2's. Either way the truck needs to be on the deck when the bed comes off, just easier that way.
- Lower and remove spare tire crank assy. bar or tube where it goes through bed.. not the whole unit but the bar connecting to the winch, was one cotter pin. (not necessary on all trucks best I can remember)
- Remove the black plastic shroud thingy behind license plate
- Unhook the 2 or 3 connectors from frame to bed - more if truck has the tow package
- Unbolt frame from bed, bolts were EASY to get to with socket & extension, 6 for short bet 8 for long bed.
- Place fender covers on tires and where bumpers meet bed in the back on both sides (4 fender covers needed total) remember the bumper will stay with the frame!
- Ok... 2 medium to large size guys could lift off a short bed and it would usually take four to to a long bed, you don't actually have to lift it off you just raise it up a few inches to clear the bumper then you can set it on the tires and bumper about 8 inches to a foot back is all it takes and you now have total access to the fuel module assy. Just have to use care so you don't scratch the paint where the bed goes behind the bumper when you are moving the bed around but thats what the fender or other type of covering is for. It is the fastest way I know of to do anything with the fuel module area of the trucks. On 4X4's I didn't even use a bay with a lift, just rode around on the creeper under the truck, you could also do without a lift on many of the larger 4X2's. Either way the truck needs to be on the deck when the bed comes off, just easier that way.
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09-13-2007, 08:48 PM
#8
Apparently UPS had a problem with one of their planes. You paid for 2nd day air and that was how I shipped it.
Below is a copy of UPS tracking information;
Your package is in the UPS system and has a rescheduled delivery date of 09/14/2007.
Tracking Number: 1Z 402 3WR 02 1213 324 9
Type: Package
Status: In Transit - Rescheduled
Rescheduled Delivery: 09/14/2007
Shipped To: BEDFORD, IN, US
Shipped/Billed On: 09/11/2007
Service: 2ND DAY AIR
Weight: 3.00 Lbs
Package Progress
Location Date Local Time Description
INDIANAPOLIS,
IN, US 09/13/2007 6:21 P.M. ARRIVAL SCAN
LOUISVILLE,
KY, US 09/13/2007 3:41 P.M. DEPARTURE SCAN
09/13/2007 3:45 A.M. ARRIVAL SCAN
09/13/2007 12:48 A.M. A FLIGHT DELAY OCCURRED BECAUSE OF MECHANICAL REASONS
SEATTLE,
WA, US 09/12/2007 8:58 P.M. DEPARTURE SCAN
09/12/2007 8:30 P.M. A FLIGHT DELAY OCCURRED BECAUSE OF MECHANICAL REASONS
09/12/2007 6:42 P.M. ARRIVAL SCAN
SPOKANE,
WA, US 09/12/2007 5:53 P.M. DEPARTURE SCAN
09/12/2007 4:53 A.M. ARRIVAL SCAN
09/12/2007 4:26 A.M. DEPARTURE SCAN
SPOKANE,
WA, US 09/11/2007 6:44 P.M. ORIGIN SCAN
US 09/11/2007 8:29 P.M. BILLING INFORMATION RECEIVED
I will of course be refunding you the cost of second day shipping and seeking a refund from UPS. I know that doesn't help you out tomorrow but it is one of those unfortunate circumstances that is entirely out of our control.
This was clearly a problem with UPS.
Below is a copy of UPS tracking information;
Your package is in the UPS system and has a rescheduled delivery date of 09/14/2007.
Tracking Number: 1Z 402 3WR 02 1213 324 9
Type: Package
Status: In Transit - Rescheduled
Rescheduled Delivery: 09/14/2007
Shipped To: BEDFORD, IN, US
Shipped/Billed On: 09/11/2007
Service: 2ND DAY AIR
Weight: 3.00 Lbs
Package Progress
Location Date Local Time Description
INDIANAPOLIS,
IN, US 09/13/2007 6:21 P.M. ARRIVAL SCAN
LOUISVILLE,
KY, US 09/13/2007 3:41 P.M. DEPARTURE SCAN
09/13/2007 3:45 A.M. ARRIVAL SCAN
09/13/2007 12:48 A.M. A FLIGHT DELAY OCCURRED BECAUSE OF MECHANICAL REASONS
SEATTLE,
WA, US 09/12/2007 8:58 P.M. DEPARTURE SCAN
09/12/2007 8:30 P.M. A FLIGHT DELAY OCCURRED BECAUSE OF MECHANICAL REASONS
09/12/2007 6:42 P.M. ARRIVAL SCAN
SPOKANE,
WA, US 09/12/2007 5:53 P.M. DEPARTURE SCAN
09/12/2007 4:53 A.M. ARRIVAL SCAN
09/12/2007 4:26 A.M. DEPARTURE SCAN
SPOKANE,
WA, US 09/11/2007 6:44 P.M. ORIGIN SCAN
US 09/11/2007 8:29 P.M. BILLING INFORMATION RECEIVED
I will of course be refunding you the cost of second day shipping and seeking a refund from UPS. I know that doesn't help you out tomorrow but it is one of those unfortunate circumstances that is entirely out of our control.
This was clearly a problem with UPS.
09-13-2007, 10:08 PM
#9
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Yea... when I worked @ the dealer$hip I found that since the BR bodies (94 & up) had only a few connectors from the frame to the bed it was faster to take the bed off the truck than to drop the fuel tank esp. if it was full of fuel and you had a bad fuel pump. Works on Dakotas too. steps as best I can remember them, I'm sure someone will chime in on anything I missed.
- Lower and remove spare tire crank assy. bar or tube where it goes through bed.. not the whole unit but the bar connecting to the winch, was one cotter pin. (not necessary on all trucks best I can remember)
- Remove the black plastic shroud thingy behind license plate
- Unhook the 2 or 3 connectors from frame to bed - more if truck has the tow package
- Unbolt frame from bed, bolts were EASY to get to with socket & extension, 6 for short bet 8 for long bed.
- Place fender covers on tires and where bumpers meet bed in the back on both sides (4 fender covers needed total) remember the bumper will stay with the frame!
- Ok... 2 medium to large size guys could lift off a short bed and it would usually take four to to a long bed, you don't actually have to lift it off you just raise it up a few inches to clear the bumper then you can set it on the tires and bumper about 8 inches to a foot back is all it takes and you now have total access to the fuel module assy. Just have to use care so you don't scratch the paint where the bed goes behind the bumper when you are moving the bed around but thats what the fender or other type of covering is for. It is the fastest way I know of to do anything with the fuel module area of the trucks. On 4X4's I didn't even use a bay with a lift, just rode around on the creeper under the truck, you could also do without a lift on many of the larger 4X2's. Either way the truck needs to be on the deck when the bed comes off, just easier that way.
- Lower and remove spare tire crank assy. bar or tube where it goes through bed.. not the whole unit but the bar connecting to the winch, was one cotter pin. (not necessary on all trucks best I can remember)
- Remove the black plastic shroud thingy behind license plate
- Unhook the 2 or 3 connectors from frame to bed - more if truck has the tow package
- Unbolt frame from bed, bolts were EASY to get to with socket & extension, 6 for short bet 8 for long bed.
- Place fender covers on tires and where bumpers meet bed in the back on both sides (4 fender covers needed total) remember the bumper will stay with the frame!
- Ok... 2 medium to large size guys could lift off a short bed and it would usually take four to to a long bed, you don't actually have to lift it off you just raise it up a few inches to clear the bumper then you can set it on the tires and bumper about 8 inches to a foot back is all it takes and you now have total access to the fuel module assy. Just have to use care so you don't scratch the paint where the bed goes behind the bumper when you are moving the bed around but thats what the fender or other type of covering is for. It is the fastest way I know of to do anything with the fuel module area of the trucks. On 4X4's I didn't even use a bay with a lift, just rode around on the creeper under the truck, you could also do without a lift on many of the larger 4X2's. Either way the truck needs to be on the deck when the bed comes off, just easier that way.
WOW !!
the fuel tank only has 2 nuts a couple fuel lines and some electric connections to be done with it. Plus, it can be done by yourself as opposed to have to have 2 people to lift the bed. nice write up on removing the bed though
09-13-2007, 11:20 PM
#11
Registered User
Yea... when I worked @ the dealer$hip I found that since the BR bodies (94 & up) had only a few connectors from the frame to the bed it was faster to take the bed off the truck than to drop the fuel tank esp. if it was full of fuel and you had a bad fuel pump. Works on Dakotas too. steps as best I can remember them, I'm sure someone will chime in on anything I missed.
- Lower and remove spare tire crank assy. bar or tube where it goes through bed.. not the whole unit but the bar connecting to the winch, was one cotter pin. (not necessary on all trucks best I can remember)
- Remove the black plastic shroud thingy behind license plate
- Unhook the 2 or 3 connectors from frame to bed - more if truck has the tow package
- Unbolt frame from bed, bolts were EASY to get to with socket & extension, 6 for short bet 8 for long bed.
- Place fender covers on tires and where bumpers meet bed in the back on both sides (4 fender covers needed total) remember the bumper will stay with the frame!
- Ok... 2 medium to large size guys could lift off a short bed and it would usually take four to to a long bed, you don't actually have to lift it off you just raise it up a few inches to clear the bumper then you can set it on the tires and bumper about 8 inches to a foot back is all it takes and you now have total access to the fuel module assy. Just have to use care so you don't scratch the paint where the bed goes behind the bumper when you are moving the bed around but thats what the fender or other type of covering is for. It is the fastest way I know of to do anything with the fuel module area of the trucks. On 4X4's I didn't even use a bay with a lift, just rode around on the creeper under the truck, you could also do without a lift on many of the larger 4X2's. Either way the truck needs to be on the deck when the bed comes off, just easier that way.
- Lower and remove spare tire crank assy. bar or tube where it goes through bed.. not the whole unit but the bar connecting to the winch, was one cotter pin. (not necessary on all trucks best I can remember)
- Remove the black plastic shroud thingy behind license plate
- Unhook the 2 or 3 connectors from frame to bed - more if truck has the tow package
- Unbolt frame from bed, bolts were EASY to get to with socket & extension, 6 for short bet 8 for long bed.
- Place fender covers on tires and where bumpers meet bed in the back on both sides (4 fender covers needed total) remember the bumper will stay with the frame!
- Ok... 2 medium to large size guys could lift off a short bed and it would usually take four to to a long bed, you don't actually have to lift it off you just raise it up a few inches to clear the bumper then you can set it on the tires and bumper about 8 inches to a foot back is all it takes and you now have total access to the fuel module assy. Just have to use care so you don't scratch the paint where the bed goes behind the bumper when you are moving the bed around but thats what the fender or other type of covering is for. It is the fastest way I know of to do anything with the fuel module area of the trucks. On 4X4's I didn't even use a bay with a lift, just rode around on the creeper under the truck, you could also do without a lift on many of the larger 4X2's. Either way the truck needs to be on the deck when the bed comes off, just easier that way.
09-13-2007, 11:32 PM
#12
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When I did my vent mod, we had the tank out in less then 10 minutes, 2 fuel lines, one electrical connector and 2 nuts, 2 hose clamps and the tank was on the ground.
09-14-2007, 08:49 AM
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I could have a fuel pump module out and back in on a gasser truck with 30 gal of fuel still in the tank in around 25min. using air tools (running and bed back on). The pump or level gauge didn't always wait for empty to fail, and I know I could have pumped it out but that takes too long on a 34gal tank. I shared this in case any of you had to deal with a full gasser or our common rails with a lift pump in the tank. The bed is not very heavy but I said to use more people so ya didn't scratch any paint, I did my old 2500 gasser long bed in the driveway by my self by going from side to side and moving the bed slowly back and up on the bumper and it worked out fine.
09-14-2007, 02:35 PM
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I had mine out in no more than 20 by myself (with at least 5 gallons still in the tank).
IMO it is a big hassle and more time consuming to take the bed off.
Sorry to hear about the inconvience, I feel it for you along with the others. I usually end up waiting on the shipping companies also.
Worst case, I would think that your local hardware store is open until 9 or 10 tonight. Go fab one up, only need about 4 different parts.
Click here for more info
Hope this helps
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