I am home now, busted clutch master 300 miles from home w/trailer - photos
#31
Have the SB DD 3250, have not had the plastic pin break, however there is a lot more pressure on the pin then with stock setup. Read some there that the pin failed for someone else and they placed a bolt in its place. Even the clutch pedal is plastic. There appears to be a lot of strain on all these plastic parts with the Double disk setups. Wish if all the plastic parts could be replace with real metal part!
#33
Double disks do not put any more strain on clutch components a 3200 dd is the same as a 3200 sd it just has one more disk the pressure plate is the same.The spring rate is whats different 3200 v oem at 2800,thats the reason for the larger master cyl dia. to allow less peddle pressure the up graded hyd are OEM parts not built by SB.
#34
From actual experience, the force to disengage the clutch (SB DD 3250) is greatly increased from the force needed to disengage a OEM clutch. I understand that the plate pressures are about the same, however the actual experience says there is a big difference from the drivers seat.
#36
Maybe it is the larger master cyl dia. If the hydraulic pressure (psi) is the same or a little higher due to the higher plate pressure, then the larger master cyl dia will require a much larger force (large area more lbs of force)
#39
So the force to disengage the clutch with a SB DD 3250 is greater then the OEM. Is the force the same as the aftermarket single disk, such as a SB OFE? Or is it just the up graded hydraulics?
#40
Registered User
Thread Starter
Both the 3250DD and the OFE are stiffer than stock. The 3250 is stiffer than the OFE as well. When I called South Bend I asked them if the 3250 is supposed to be stiffer than the OFE and he said yes.
#41
Registered User
Thread Starter
I talked to Peter this morning. He was totally cool about it. He is sending a new set up.
He said that when you originally install the master, you have to be very careful the first time you pop it in and clock it over. If you are not, you can shave some of the plastic off on that first spin, keeping it from ever having the ability to be snug in there.
He suggested taking master cyl. hole/flange (thingy I can't think of a good word for)metal piece that bolts to the firewall that accepts the master off. I think he said either to install the master on this piece first or practice putting it in a couple times first (I say "think" because my 1 year old & my 4 year old were abusing my like Rocky Balboa does a slab of ribs while I was on the phone).
I will take some photos of my install for others to see.
Thanx SB!!!
He said that when you originally install the master, you have to be very careful the first time you pop it in and clock it over. If you are not, you can shave some of the plastic off on that first spin, keeping it from ever having the ability to be snug in there.
He suggested taking master cyl. hole/flange (thingy I can't think of a good word for)metal piece that bolts to the firewall that accepts the master off. I think he said either to install the master on this piece first or practice putting it in a couple times first (I say "think" because my 1 year old & my 4 year old were abusing my like Rocky Balboa does a slab of ribs while I was on the phone).
I will take some photos of my install for others to see.
Thanx SB!!!
#42
I talked to Peter this morning. He was totally cool about it. He is sending a new set up.
He said that when you originally install the master, you have to be very careful the first time you pop it in and clock it over. If you are not, you can shave some of the plastic off on that first spin, keeping it from ever having the ability to be snug in there.
He suggested taking master cyl. hole/flange (thingy I can't think of a good word for)metal piece that bolts to the firewall that accepts the master off. I think he said either to install the master on this piece first or practice putting it in a couple times first (I say "think" because my 1 year old & my 4 year old were abusing my like Rocky Balboa does a slab of ribs while I was on the phone).
I will take some photos of my install for others to see.
Thanx SB!!!
He said that when you originally install the master, you have to be very careful the first time you pop it in and clock it over. If you are not, you can shave some of the plastic off on that first spin, keeping it from ever having the ability to be snug in there.
He suggested taking master cyl. hole/flange (thingy I can't think of a good word for)metal piece that bolts to the firewall that accepts the master off. I think he said either to install the master on this piece first or practice putting it in a couple times first (I say "think" because my 1 year old & my 4 year old were abusing my like Rocky Balboa does a slab of ribs while I was on the phone).
I will take some photos of my install for others to see.
Thanx SB!!!
#44
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Willow Park, Tx
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Not wanting to hyjack but, how does a DD pull? I've been lookin at getting a clutch and was leaning toward the ofe, but I wana do it right the first time and not have to change it later. I wana go to about 550 or 600 hp, but I pull alot so I need a clutch that can do both, but also not be a big pain to drive. So should I stick wit the ofe, or will it handle what I wana do?
#45
Registered User
Thread Starter
Not wanting to hyjack but, how does a DD pull? I've been lookin at getting a clutch and was leaning toward the ofe, but I wana do it right the first time and not have to change it later. I wana go to about 550 or 600 hp, but I pull alot so I need a clutch that can do both, but also not be a big pain to drive. So should I stick wit the ofe, or will it handle what I wana do?
When you say "pull" do you mean like pull a sled or tow?