Hummer wheels and tires?

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12-08-2007, 05:30 AM

#31

Mark Hodowanec

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Quote:

Originally Posted by gpshemi

JC...I'm NOT saying OUR trucks are hubcentric!!

I'm also not saying that routering them out is bad in itself. In fact I think it's a great idea over paying to machine them if you don't have free access to CNC. I was just defending my method from Raspy beating up on my method.

Telling the tire shop the wheel were modified wasn't in my plans, however, they commented on the fact they wouldn't fit as the hubs were different. So at that point I had two choices. Tell them they were modified to fit, or pack up and go to another shop. I chose to fess up and take a chance. Just pointing out something to watch for.

As for the lugs being tapered, I'm not sure I've seen a flat nut hold a wheel on regardless if it's hub-centric or lug-centric. I'm not going to argue with you about the wheel design though. I've said my thoughts. You go ahead and beat it up.

FWIW: These guys commented that the taper on the wheel holes was not the correct "lug-centric taper". Never heard of that before. I said tons of guys are doing it, don't worry about it. They didn't, they're on, they balanced great as is.

But here's the deal...it's your truck...do it your way. They'll all work fine. I don't personally care. Just don't beat up on the other guy for doing it different. I was just pointing out some of the pitfalls to watch for in both cases.

gpshemi, nobody is '"beating you up". However your method is WRONG and we are trying to set the record strait so that others do not follow your method thinking it is correct. You can do with your truck as you see fit. For all I care, you can forget lug nuts all together and super glue the wheels on. Just don't tell everyone that this is the right way to mount H2 rims on our trucks!

One last time, to set the record strait, for 3rd gen 3/4 & 1 ton trucks using H2 wheels:
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Note: if the hub is machined out to 4.774 the wheel will barely clear the hub. Any rust, etc., & it will not. I machined mine out to 4.780 +/-0.001 and the wheels clear easy. Furthermore, plenty of taper remains for balancing.

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12-08-2007, 11:06 AM

#32

CoolumConst

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Have any of you seen a set of aftermarket wheels on a dodge. The hub opening is almost a 1/4" bigger then the hub. Do not worry if you are within a .001" of the hug. On H2s just leave some of the taper for balancing or leave the ugly weights off and get some of those balancing beeds. $40 will get you a 4 3/4" hole saw and you are done. The saw self centers on the taper. There is no guessing or trying to figure how much to take off.

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12-08-2007, 11:24 AM

#33

06CTDforAU

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Truckman0097

Gotcha - thanks for clearing that up guys - I am thinking 315's on stock will be my next purchase, but no levelling - will I be regretting that? How bad is the rub and will it damage anything -on the truck or tires?

Be careful doing that if you have factory chrome CLAD wheels. The chrome cladding will chip off around the edges because of the extra width of the 315's. Been there, done that; twice!

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12-08-2007, 01:38 PM

#34

alaskaflyer

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So I was doing the router method and you know that bearing on the end of the router bit? word of advice make sure the hex head screw is tight. Mine came off in the middle of the first wheel and I gouged the heck out of it. Put the bearing back on and the last 3 came out perfect and now I'm on ebay looking for a single wheel. all I can say is DOH!!!!!!!