Beeram305

Ours wasn't nearly so bad, we just had to take the front stud off of the manifold. Let us know how it runs, ours is spooling a little better than when we first got it on there, but it still spools around 1900. Just the nature of the beast I guess. And the altitude.

bluechrome

I'll find out on sunday. Does any body have pis of install? also I cant really tell its an ss turbo kinda looks like aluminum to me who knows i'll post my results sunday night with pics

jrussell

Yeah, I was expecting it to be shiny polished SS so I was a little disappointed when it looked like a normal housing.

Haven't really had a chance to work it hard yet, but man is it smoky and laggy! It spools around 1900 RPM. Boost while cruising is down considerably and EGT's are up. Where I used to see about 6psi and 700* cruising at 70mph I now see 2psi and 900*.

Max boost is down from 43psi to 33psi but that was to be expected. Max EGT's seem lower but I haven't been able to stay in it past 60mph, so hard to say what they will be in OD at the end of track.

Is it normal for cruising EGT's to increase this much with a bigger single? When I upgraded the turbo on my '93 it had a little less boost on the highway but EGT's were down instead of up.

t-boe

Once it's lit does it seem to make boost alot faster? I think it's normal to see a little higher EGT's at cruising with a bigger turbo, but 200 degrees seems like alot. I can't believe it's that laggy! I thought these new stainless housings were suppose to have decreased lag. What setting was the Smarty on?

jrussell

Yeah it definitely builds boost faster once it's lit. The Smarty was on #9. I was expecting a little lag, but it seems pretty bad to me. For example, I was in 2wd and built 2psi of boost and launched it. Normally this would spin the tires all the way through 2nd gear. With the new turbo there was lag until just before 2nd gear so it didn't spin tires at all. So yeah, basically the lag lasted from launch till almost 2nd gear.

One odd thing I noticed is that my stock manifold doesn't have the divider going down the middle. It has a divider, but all cylinders collect together just before the turbo mounting flange. It almost looks like you could drill and tap for a pyro there and get a reading for all 6 cylinders. Anyway, so I thought it was weird that the HTT housing did have a divider in the middle. Seems like the air flow would hit that divider and that could cause higher EGT's?

jrussell

Some pics of the turbo and manifold...

bluechrome

i'm bout to go and install mine. I'm going to pull the manifold off and put the new one on, on top of the bench hopefully it will go easy

jrussell

Yes, that's by far the easiest way! I was able to get the stocker off without removing the manifold, but that back bolt on the HTT is blocked by the larger housing. With the heater lines in the way I couldn't get a wrench on it at all.

Pulling the manifold was easier than I expected, but watch out for the falling gaskets! Installing the new turbo on the bench was cake. Wrestling with the exhaust and elbow in direct sunlight when it's 101* in the shade wasn't as fun as one might expect.

Oh, when you install the new studs you need to put the long side in the exhaust manifold and the short end goes through the turbo. Just don't screw them in the manifold all the way or you won't have enough threads left for the bolts. I put them in backwards the first time and the long side hit part of the turbine housing so it wouldn't go together.

badcompany

Is that an "ss" turbo? Thought it would be polished or not painted. At least in there ads its nice and shiny.

Billy Ram

When removing the stock turbo it helps to spray penetrating on the studs the night before. They can be tight. The way the studs are threaded into the turbo makes it hard to remove so remove the studs also and the turbo will come out. It helps a lot to have a deep off set boxed end wrench to reach the rear nut " I have wrenches with different off sets" and you can only turn the nut a little at a time. Installing the new turbo is easer and also removing.
I haven't tried the new SS turbo but I have heard they start spooling a little later than the htb2 and having a larger turbine wheel adds weight and that makes sence.

Beeram305

Jrussell, it sounds like you and I are experiencing the exact same thing. I like how it spools fast once it gets to about 10 psi, but it's at 1900 rpm like you said. Ours seemed to loosen up a little bit with driving, but there is a night and day difference when driving the 2000 vs. the 03, or even the stock turbo. I'm thinkin it's the altitude, we have tried the smarty, smarty + EZ, beta smarty, and hot juice to try and get it to spool up quicker, nothing's really helped. Maybe we would have been better off with a 64/64/13, but we aren't gonna bother, I'm just trying to figure out what would help spool it lower down in the rpm's besides a cam.

Cruising temps are up a little, but it does a good job on the top end.

OK, my rambling on and on is done.

Sapps

I just got my HTT SS 62/13 put in a while back and had the same problem. Higher EGTS low boost, slow spool etc. Talked to Dave @ HTT - Super nice guy, very helpfull. We tried a few things and it turned out I had a weak actuator. Dave sent me a new one to put on. Try this..... clamp a small set of visegrips on the blue line coming out of the comp housing going to the wastegate. Go drive it and see how the charger works. Mine worked great, the weak actuator was letting the drive pressure blow the wastegate open. You may be able to adjust the wastegate down to alleviate your problems. It looks like a pain to get to installed on the truck though.

My SS 62/13 now lights fast, makes 45lbs, cools 200 degrees and looks cool 2

CTD06

Polished housing is an extra 100 bucks.

jrussell

Thanks for the tip. I'll go give that a try right now.

I thought that was for a polished compressor housing? Do they polish the exhaust housing for that same price as well?

Luvnacumns

On my aurora 5k once it lit boost was there at any time but laggey!!! OMG!!! I will agree taking the stock manifold off is the easiest way to remove and install a turbo but do watch for the gaskets what a pain!! When I removed the 5k and installed the stocker I did it all with the manifold on just removed the whole air assembly and it was fairly simple..

Nice looking turbo!!!