I just received a new DiPricol Electronic Fuel Pressure gauge from Geno's and I cannot find any post or instructions on where to mount the transducer. I cannot find a test port to plug it into. The only options that I can think of are:

1) Drill and tap the plastic fuel filter cap.
2) Order a $60 billit cap with a test port from Geno's
3) Order a banjo bold and a pressure tube to install on the bottom of the fuel filter.

Any other thoughts or suggestions? Surely, there is a simple pressure test port somewhere on the 2006 that I can simply remove and replace with my transducer.

If anyone has installed on and has pictures, I would greatly appreciate any help.

 

Not one to my knowledge. You can T it into the rubber supply line from the filter housing to the CP3 or any of the other suggestions you said.

The one thing that bothers me though is the "transducer" you are referring to. Do you mean the isolator? Is this a brand new electric fuel pressure gauge that just came on the market? Or, is this the electric rail fuel pressure gauge? Typical fp gauges just have a banjo inline and then 1/8 line that goes to an isolator so you don't have to plumb fuel in the cab. From the isolator to the gauge you would use antifreeze. If it is an all new electric fp gauge then the filter cap would be the cleanest and easiest.

 

Here is a link to the one that I purchased. It has a transducer that connects to the gauge via a wiring harness. Not cheap. I hope I can get it installed without much additional costs.

http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo....I_EFPG_30_OPWH

 

This looks the most promising, but I really did not want to spend another $60 for this gauge.

http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=LT_FFCPP

DODGE 5.9L Fuel Filter Cap with Fuel Pressure Port - '00-'07

Since the fuel filter assembly revision by Dodge in model year 2000, we have been looking for a location to give owners easy access to the fuel system, thus enabling you to monitor fuel pressure. The original answer was replacement of a banjo bolt with a tapped banjo bolt.

In lieu of replacing banjo bolts, it’s also possible to screw a fuel hose into the ‘00-‘02 engine’s Schrader valve, but ‘00 and newer trucks don’t have a Schrader valve, so we developed a fuel cap for the fuel filter assembly that replaces the assembly’s plastic cap.

The polished metal cap has a 19mm (3/4”) hex-head for easy removal with metric or SAE tools. The center of the hex-head is drilled, tapped and plugged. The fitting will accept a 1/8” NPT pressure sending unit, perfect for those who wish to monitor fuel pressure.

Allows pre-filter fuel pressure monitoring.


OR this with a banjo bolt...

FUEL PRESSURE LINE - UNIVERSAL
Our experience with “universal fit” products have rarely been good. Typically, a universal fit product does not help you accomplish a project without multiple trips to the hardware store. This is not true with the Universal Fit Fuel Pressure Line, in fact, this line will eventually supersede the two remaining LAHF part numbers we currently offer. This hose is 1/4” (inside diameter) and is rated for 250 psi, and is 30” in length. The assortment of fittings for each end of the hose allow you to marry a fuel pressure sending unit to the fuel system. On the fuel pressure sending unit side of the hose, the hose is manufactured with a male 1/4 NPT fitting that is necessary for use with many of the fuel pressure isolators on the market. An adapter (included in the kit) allows the male 1/4 NPT fitting to become a 1/8 NPT female, which is used with electronic fuel pressure sending units. To access fuel pressure, the hose is manufactured with a female Schrader adapter. The Schrader adapter (remove the Schrader valve with the tool that we supply in the kit) is used on ‘00 - ‘02 trucks where the Schrader valve is located on the side of the VP-44 injection pump. Should you have a ‘98.5 - ‘99 truck, you can access the fuel system at the top of the fuel filter housing by removing the innermost 1/8 NPT plug. An adapter allows the female Schrader fitting to become a 1/8 NPT male which is used on the fuel filter housing. After several years of selling banjo bolts, an assortment of fuel pressure lines, and billet fuel filter caps, we’ve finally evolved to the final answer in how to access the fuel system. This kit is great.

Vulcan - Universal Fuel Pressure Line


=================================================
"98.5-'02 Tapped Banjo Bolt for Dodge 24 Valve Engines"

These zinc–plated 12L14 steel Banjo Fittings feature a large diameter (.187” vs. .130”) fuel port. The fittings are SAE (3/4” hex) vs. the stock 17mm hex design. The fitting on the bottom is the standard fitting, while the fitting on top has a built–up hex that is drilled to accept a 1/8 NPT male threaded fuel pressure sensor.

NOTE: Requires 2 replacement gaskets


Anyone have any other thoughts or should I just bite the bullet and get the cap? I'm not sure how to best secure the Fuel Pressure Line with the transducer, so I like the cap idea the best.

 

Dieselmanor has some pretty good instructions if I recall. I think use a banjo bolt set up if I recall.

 

Yea, the tapped banjo is the best (cheapest, easiest) way to go. It should look something like this when done:

 

So, in the picture above, it looks like you replace the existing bolt with a new tapped banjo bolt. Also, it looks like you put a shut-off. Why, Is it simply for safety?

It also looks like you added an extension hose. Where does this go, and how did you mount the hose/transducer?

Thanks!

 

banjo bolt was the route i went on my truck, simple and easy

 

Caldwell, I am running straight mechanical. I think you will find over time that your isolator is a weak point and will eventually partially or completely fail at together. I'm not putting down an electrical set up, I know it is superior to mine, just not the way I chose to go.

Heres the deal, what you are really looking it is a "sheath" a piece of 3/16"ID fuel hose from NAPA that I used to run over top of my 1/8 tubing. Yes, I just used the same old air brake line that comes with everyones boost gauge kit.

The idea is that I am protecting the actual hose with pressure on it from abrasion, heat, etc. It is covered all the way from the needle valve to the back of the gauge in rubber fuel line.

I leaned most of what I know here, from Dr. Evil, Moparman and a few other of the old heads.

Pretty much any way you plumb it you are going to want to use a banjo bolt.

 

Thanks! I appreciate your knowledge on the subject. I will have to try the Banjo bolt on the CP3. I think I will mount the transducer right on top of the CP3. I hope that will be a cool enough location for it. Thanks Again!

 

Do you plan on doing a Glacier Big Line Kit or 2 micron filter in the near future?

If so go ahead and get it. The Big Line Kit costs about 1/2 of what your gauge costs and the 2 micron filter kit (which includes the Big Line Kit) costs exactly what you're paying for the gauge.

Each of these kits have an inline fitting that will allow you to put in the transducer.

I have the 2 micron filter and big line kit and have the inline fitting placed before the 2 micron filter but after the stock fuel canister. I was reading about 20 psi with my Glacier pump.

 

If you really want a cheap way to do it and plan on upgrading to a Glacier or Fass system with new lines do like I did. Found a T fitting of the same size of line your running from pump to filter housing. Then find an old air pressure guage. Run extra fuel line from T to inside the cab and at the end of hose put a nippled fitting that will screw on to air guage. I had to turn key to prime the line then pushed gauge into line. Have me an accurate $5 fuel pressure gauge.

 

I do plan on putting in a FASS at some point. But, it's the chicken and egg syndrome -- I would really like to know what my pressure is before I spend decide to purchase a FASS.

Anyway, I hope by putting the banjo bolt right on the CP3, that I would not have to make any changes to the Fuel Pressure gauge when I do finally get the FASS or similar.

Not to change the subject, but with a FASS, do you hook the new line up to the existing fuel filter housing or go directly into the CP3 somehow? If it goes into the CP3, then I may be have to mess with the fuel pressure sensor again when I do the FASS.

Again... I bow to the all of the knowledgable souls out there.

 

Ok, hold the phone. This is a new offering from Di Pricol. Autometer used to be the only electric fuel gauge in town. To use the electric transducer you will need to isolate it using a grease gun hose or a length of rubber hose to buffer it from vibration. I have attached the a pic of how I did my e FP for reference. I would suggest going with a T in the supply line between the filter housing and the CP3 if you don't want the filter cap.

 

I have the electronic fuel pressure gauge from dipricol and I am using a banjo bolt. I had replace the bolt under the fuel filter canister.