Hey Marco, Can Smarty Be Programed To Stop Heater Grid Cycles?
#31
whats the code number it shows/gives??? when you disconnect the power??seems like the way to do it would be to fool the ECM return signal..then you could unplug the big power wires and just put a resistor on the return signal for the ECM...witch should only have a 0-5volt reference right???
I love the block heater!!! I dont know why people dont use them...warm air right when you turn the heater blower on is the BEST...plus I kinda feel bad when I fire the truck up in the single digts and it rough idles and smokes for a second or two..and runs LOUD till it warms up.....block heaters rule IMHO..
I love the block heater!!! I dont know why people dont use them...warm air right when you turn the heater blower on is the BEST...plus I kinda feel bad when I fire the truck up in the single digts and it rough idles and smokes for a second or two..and runs LOUD till it warms up.....block heaters rule IMHO..
#33
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whats the code number it shows/gives??? when you disconnect the power??seems like the way to do it would be to fool the ECM return signal..then you could unplug the big power wires and just put a resistor on the return signal for the ECM...witch should only have a 0-5volt reference right???
I love the block heater!!! I dont know why people dont use them...warm air right when you turn the heater blower on is the BEST...plus I kinda feel bad when I fire the truck up in the single digts and it rough idles and smokes for a second or two..and runs LOUD till it warms up.....block heaters rule IMHO..
I love the block heater!!! I dont know why people dont use them...warm air right when you turn the heater blower on is the BEST...plus I kinda feel bad when I fire the truck up in the single digts and it rough idles and smokes for a second or two..and runs LOUD till it warms up.....block heaters rule IMHO..
the ecm sets a code for "ecm did not detect voltage drop from intake air heater".
i tried to fool the ecm by modifying the grid and removing most of the element material which resulted in 95% less restriction......but also resulted in a meltdown as well . im glad i tested it before re-installing it. i guess the amperage was just too much for the greately reduced length of heater element.
those of you who arent getting codes, is it cold enough for your wait to start light to come on? that is when the grid cycles and after a couple starts in that situation it always set a code for me.......but not anymore, now my truck thinks its summer all year long w/ my block heater pluged in
#34
please tell me the code number.......
the guys not getting codes are the older trucks with out the CAN diagnostics...from what I notice it is all the new trucks that throw code/s
the guys not getting codes are the older trucks with out the CAN diagnostics...from what I notice it is all the new trucks that throw code/s
#35
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Yep
Mine did even plugged in.
Wait to start light didn't come on, but the first time the heater was supposed to cycle , the CEL came on.
No biggie, It'll go away when it's warmer.
Mine did even plugged in.
Wait to start light didn't come on, but the first time the heater was supposed to cycle , the CEL came on.
No biggie, It'll go away when it's warmer.
#36
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i think it is 2906. I got the same code when i installed the bodylift. The gaskets between the grid heater are a metal based and that is how it is grounded. The new gaskets that came with the bodylift were paper based and could not ground. pulled codes and it was a failure of voltage drop or something like that.
#38
For all of those that are saying that the loss of boost pressure due to removing the grid heater or changing intake horn is bad, need to think about this. Boost pressure is created by restriction. The more the restriction, the more the pressure for the same amount of volume of air. Your supply volume of air, turbo, has more or less stayed the same, but you have removed restriction, heater grid/stock airhorn, thus the pressure has dropped. The drop in boost signifies a decrease in restiction and an increase in airflow. More air means you can burn more fuel, means more hp. A lot of people are under the misconception that boost is a direct correlation to hp, but if you take a stock turbo and make 50 psi, without it comming apart, and 64/14 @ 40 psi, you will make more power with the bigger turbo, even though it has less boost. It flows more air in and out, thus less restriction/drive pressure, and more power. Just an example.
Bobby
Bobby
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i understand that less restriction=less boost, but the restriction was at the stock grid and horn. if i were measuring boost somewhere between the turbo and the grid/horn, then yes removing the grid/horn would show less boost because i got rid of the restriction.......but i am measuring boost at the head, after the restriction (grid/horn) so i dont see why my boost readings would have droped?
#40
i think it is 2906. I got the same code when i installed the bodylift. The gaskets between the grid heater are a metal based and that is how it is grounded. The new gaskets that came with the bodylift were paper based and could not ground. pulled codes and it was a failure of voltage drop or something like that.
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i am going to blame that one on the meds and the cold i am fighting. Feel like I got hit by a mack truck. you got r right mark! lol.... SOrry about that.