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Hey Marco, Can Smarty Be Programed To Stop Heater Grid Cycles?

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Old 01-24-2008, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Megaramasaur
Has anyone done any dyno testing with and without or evaluated EGT's during WOT runs? I never thought of the potential restriction?

i did some wot runs tonight on the way home and i didnt see any egt drop at all, if anything it may run a little hotter. also i lost 2-4 psi boost. it now spikes just over 30 and holds 24psi steady. before the install it would always spike 34 and hold 26-28psi. keep in mind i also added a cfm+ at the same time.
Old 01-24-2008, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Megaramasaur
Has anyone done any dyno testing with and without or evaluated EGT's during WOT runs? I never thought of the potential restriction?
Yes, Erik of Tri Valley Performance has... they posted the results on their website and there is a thread here on it. Basically it was good for about 6 hp; 15 tq.
Old 01-24-2008, 08:05 PM
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I know how you feel, I experience heater failure but not by my doing, I had some kind of short in my 03, and the heater grid stayed on after I turned the truck off. I didn't know anything till the next morning when the truck wouldn't start. I lifted the hood and everything was melted, the intake horn was warped.... dealer covered it, said I was the second one they've seen.
With how much I read on this site, somehow I missed this one.... I'll have to look into it...
Old 01-24-2008, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Ghost Ram
well, i installed my cfm+ tonight and took a look at the grid heater while i was in there and decided to be the guinee pig and try a little diy mod in hopes of solving this problem and still keep the heater.

what i did was pulled all the fins out and stretched them apart to make them straight. then cut all the excess off and just left enough to reach straight across the center and added a bend at the end and drilled a new hole to rebolt the two fins back into place with.

so esentially what i now had was two individual fins, each one going from a power bolt straight across to the ground bolt. i figured this would eliminate 95% of the retriction and still draw voltage so it wouldnt set a code and also even still heat the air to some degree, basically remaining functional.

well the fab work turned out really nice, i even did some gasket matching w/ a dremel. i decided to test it out before installing it and boy was i glad i did because within 3 seconds after hooking power to it the fins turned glowing red, melted and snaped apart. needless to say my project had failed but thats always how i learn things.....first hand.

that was a concern of mine that by removing so much of the fins all the voltage would be applied to a much smaller area and it would get too hot. well my concern was valid and im glad i tested it before re-installing it. so anyway i installed my grid delete instead and plan on getting a block heater cord from the dealer tomorrow, hopefully to cure any rough starts.

btw, i hooked up the heater to the battery while it was still stock and the fins didnt glow at all but they did put off a good bit of heat and would definately burn you.


SO DONT BOTHER TO TRY THIS ONE AT HOME

now if marco could disable the heater cycles in the ecm we would all be good to go.


You got gonads, just going for it. You have my respect.
Old 01-24-2008, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Ghost Ram
i did some wot runs tonight on the way home and i didnt see any egt drop at all, if anything it may run a little hotter. also i lost 2-4 psi boost. it now spikes just over 30 and holds 24psi steady. before the install it would always spike 34 and hold 26-28psi. keep in mind i also added a cfm+ at the same time.
Well, that's not good...are you going to try the cfm+ by itself by any chance? I'm considering one of those, but not the grid heater delete....
Old 01-24-2008, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by jgiachino
Well, that's not good...are you going to try the cfm+ by itself by any chance? I'm considering one of those, but not the grid heater delete....
After I put the CFM on (kept the heater grid, it is snowing outside right now) I noticed an overall gain of 3-5 psi. (from 50psi to 53-55 psi) and it spools faster overall too. Here is the funny thing... most of that faster spool has been from the primary turbo (Bht3b). Go figure!!

That low/mid hp increase is very much felt as well.
Old 01-24-2008, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by jgiachino
Well, that's not good...are you going to try the cfm+ by itself by any chance? I'm considering one of those, but not the grid heater delete....

no i dont plan on pulling it back apart anytime soon, but im gonna drive it some more tomorrow just to double check and i will report back.
Old 01-24-2008, 10:49 PM
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I disconnected the power to the terminals from the passenger side battery. No codes.
Old 01-25-2008, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by jlibert
I disconnected the power to the terminals from the passenger side battery. No codes.
I did the same, but still have codes.
Old 01-25-2008, 07:51 AM
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I would try something like this in replacing the heater grid. Finding a place to mount it could be a problem though.
click here

MikeyB

Last edited by madhat; 01-27-2008 at 03:24 PM. Reason: click here
Old 01-25-2008, 08:15 AM
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thats interesting, but from what i saw last night i would be concerned about a meltdown. it literally took 3 seconds for that metal to get so glowing hot i couldnt look at it because it actually bothered my eyes, then it melted. i wouldnt have beleived it if i hadnt been the one to do it. my friends in the shop were also VERY surprised.
Old 01-25-2008, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Ghost Ram
thats interesting, but from what i saw last night i would be concerned about a meltdown. it literally took 3 seconds for that metal to get so glowing hot i couldnt look at it because it actually bothered my eyes, then it melted. i wouldnt have beleived it if i hadnt been the one to do it. my friends in the shop were also VERY surprised.
I would believe it for sure. It takes some serious amperage to pull the volt meter down like it does. I wouldn't feel safe unless the wires/relay are completely disconnected.
Old 01-26-2008, 11:57 PM
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PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!

the block heater works wonders i got the cord from the dealer for $30 and pluged it in last night. this morning the overhead read 24 deg, i turned the key and to my surprise the "wait to start" light didnt even come on i started it up and she purred like a kitten, not even a puff of smoke. it also warmed up to operating temp while driving in less than half the normal time

best $30 i have ever spent!
Old 01-27-2008, 12:27 AM
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whats the code number it shows/gives??? when you disconnect the power??seems like the way to do it would be to fool the ECM return signal..then you could unplug the big power wires and just put a resistor on the return signal for the ECM...witch should only have a 0-5volt reference right???
I love the block heater!!! I dont know why people dont use them...warm air right when you turn the heater blower on is the BEST...plus I kinda feel bad when I fire the truck up in the single digts and it rough idles and smokes for a second or two..and runs LOUD till it warms up.....block heaters rule IMHO..
Old 01-27-2008, 12:34 AM
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Originally Posted by 53 ******
whats the code number it shows/gives??? when you disconnect the power??seems like the way to do it would be to fool the ECM return signal..then you could unplug the big power wires and just put a resistor on the return signal for the ECM...witch should only have a 0-5volt reference right???
I love the block heater!!! I dont know why people dont use them...warm air right when you turn the heater blower on is the BEST...plus I kinda feel bad when I fire the truck up in the single digts and it rough idles and smokes for a second or two..and runs LOUD till it warms up.....block heaters rule IMHO..
Cough Cough... Mine was sitting since wednesday when the tranny broke and I couldn't get a cord to it... Um yeah it sounded like shoooooooot cranked twice and stumbled cranked again finally fired and blew smoke everywhere.... Doesn't help when it's been 0 or colder for the last two weeks...


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