Help me with this problem....
#1
Help me with this problem....
My 35's have been rubbing my control arms since I have had them on, and it is really irratating me. I have a 2.5 inch leveling kit, so it is not a height issue, it is a backspacing problem, so what I need is a wheel with less backspacing, right? If so then what backspacing will allow me to clear the 35's? Also, by getting a new wheel with less backspacing will my 35.12.50.r17's still fit on the new wheels, no matter the backspacing? So I quess what I am trying to say is, can I get let say a wheel that is 17x8 will my tires still fit on that wheel, and will that bacskpacing stop my rubbing issue?
Thanks guys!
Oh, and where online would you guys get wheels or would you go somewhere local?
Thanks guys!
Oh, and where online would you guys get wheels or would you go somewhere local?
#2
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what wheels are you running?
I have no rub with 35s, stock wheels, and a 2-3 inch lift.
centerline is making a wheel with 6" of backspace now. there on the web.
I have no rub with 35s, stock wheels, and a 2-3 inch lift.
centerline is making a wheel with 6" of backspace now. there on the web.
#3
I am running stock wheels, it is not a height problem, it is a backspacing issue, how are yours not rubbing? What tires do you have, I have the Pro-comp Mud Terrains, the larger lugs may be my problem, every centimeter makes a difference.
#4
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mine rub'd like this stock
now no rub.
BFG MT 35x12.5 17s
It may be the stock springs, some are not as high as otheres.
My fender height has changed like this. All with the 35s. Then 2" coils and then 3" coils. Measurements made with the buckstop on the front.
Stock 2" 3"
Front Driver: 40 3/4 43 43 1/2
Front Passenger 40 42 43
We may of had different stock springs rates. I have compared with a couple different members. Is your truck a short bed?
Back to the wheels. The hummer H2 wheels will push the wheel out a bit. Then the centerline is another choice. http://centerlinewheels.com/wheel_de...ehicle&data=11
now no rub.
BFG MT 35x12.5 17s
It may be the stock springs, some are not as high as otheres.
My fender height has changed like this. All with the 35s. Then 2" coils and then 3" coils. Measurements made with the buckstop on the front.
Stock 2" 3"
Front Driver: 40 3/4 43 43 1/2
Front Passenger 40 42 43
We may of had different stock springs rates. I have compared with a couple different members. Is your truck a short bed?
Back to the wheels. The hummer H2 wheels will push the wheel out a bit. Then the centerline is another choice. http://centerlinewheels.com/wheel_de...ehicle&data=11
#5
Not A Height Issue!
This is not a height issue at all, I have plenty of height for the tires up front, the problem is the tires need to be pushed out a bit to clear the control arms, not up or down but out. Height is not an issue at all, I just want to know whether my 35-12.50-R17's will fit on any aftermarket wheel i get, as long as it is a 17 inch wheel?
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#9
You have to be carefull reducing the backspacing. I had a set of 17x9 wheels with 4.5" backspacing. When I tried 35's, the tire would just catch the lower back corner of the fender. This is one reason I stick with 295's, no rub. Personally, I would take the control arm rub over fender rub. I did have a 2" spring replacement levelling kit installed.
That is why most lift companies recommend a 4.5" backspaced wheel, so it doesn't hit the control arms, but then they are talking about lifts in the 4-5" range where it won't catch the fender.
You may end up fixing one problem and creating another. You might see if someone locally has a wheel/ 35" tire that you can mount to check fitment.
Most guys get used to the control arm rub and know where to stop turning the wheel just before they rub. I had a 2000 Ford SD with 38x16.5 Baja Claws. If I turned the wheel too far the tire would catch the leaf spring. If I turned the wheel all the way at a complete stop, the tire lugs would keep the truck from moving, like a parking brake. I got used to it and never had a problem, but my wife hated it.
That is why most lift companies recommend a 4.5" backspaced wheel, so it doesn't hit the control arms, but then they are talking about lifts in the 4-5" range where it won't catch the fender.
You may end up fixing one problem and creating another. You might see if someone locally has a wheel/ 35" tire that you can mount to check fitment.
Most guys get used to the control arm rub and know where to stop turning the wheel just before they rub. I had a 2000 Ford SD with 38x16.5 Baja Claws. If I turned the wheel too far the tire would catch the leaf spring. If I turned the wheel all the way at a complete stop, the tire lugs would keep the truck from moving, like a parking brake. I got used to it and never had a problem, but my wife hated it.
#10
Originally Posted by djbikeman
You have to be carefull reducing the backspacing. I had a set of 17x9 wheels with 4.5" backspacing. When I tried 35's, the tire would just catch the lower back corner of the fender. This is one reason I stick with 295's, no rub. Personally, I would take the control arm rub over fender rub. I did have a 2" spring replacement levelling kit installed.
That is why most lift companies recommend a 4.5" backspaced wheel, so it doesn't hit the control arms, but then they are talking about lifts in the 4-5" range where it won't catch the fender.
You may end up fixing one problem and creating another. You might see if someone locally has a wheel/ 35" tire that you can mount to check fitment.
Most guys get used to the control arm rub and know where to stop turning the wheel just before they rub. I had a 2000 Ford SD with 38x16.5 Baja Claws. If I turned the wheel too far the tire would catch the leaf spring. If I turned the wheel all the way at a complete stop, the tire lugs would keep the truck from moving, like a parking brake. I got used to it and never had a problem, but my wife hated it.
That is why most lift companies recommend a 4.5" backspaced wheel, so it doesn't hit the control arms, but then they are talking about lifts in the 4-5" range where it won't catch the fender.
You may end up fixing one problem and creating another. You might see if someone locally has a wheel/ 35" tire that you can mount to check fitment.
Most guys get used to the control arm rub and know where to stop turning the wheel just before they rub. I had a 2000 Ford SD with 38x16.5 Baja Claws. If I turned the wheel too far the tire would catch the leaf spring. If I turned the wheel all the way at a complete stop, the tire lugs would keep the truck from moving, like a parking brake. I got used to it and never had a problem, but my wife hated it.
#11
There is plenty of room between my tires and the fender, if I move the tires out more with a new wheel, I should not have a rubbing issue, should I? The new wheels won't move the tire backwards or forwards will they? If I clear the fender now with no problem, why would pushing the tire out more cause a rubbing issue on the fender?
#12
You might have issues because the radius of the turning tire increases by 1.5". You should see if you can test it before you buy it. Like I said, my truck had a 2" levelling kit with 17x9 wheels with 4.5" backspacing. With 315/70R17 BFG AT's, the tires would clip the back lower corner of the fender.
My current truck has 17x8 Mojave Teflon's with 4.5" backspacing on it with 295/70R17 Nitto AT's. I do not currently have a levelling kit, but the tires only clear the back corner of the front fender by 3/8".
You won't have any issues drving in a straight line, but if you hit a bump with the steering wheel near full lock, it will probably rub the fender. It will look like there is a ton of room when the wheels are straight.
My current truck has 17x8 Mojave Teflon's with 4.5" backspacing on it with 295/70R17 Nitto AT's. I do not currently have a levelling kit, but the tires only clear the back corner of the front fender by 3/8".
You won't have any issues drving in a straight line, but if you hit a bump with the steering wheel near full lock, it will probably rub the fender. It will look like there is a ton of room when the wheels are straight.
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