t-boe

I was thinking 04.5. Sticks are going to be neccessary.

rip 112

I don't mind going with sticks, but I will probably do that as needed. TCR thanks for the info. Will I really need to do headstuds? What psi will a 64/13-71 push? I'm also trying to get my mods done in a good order, as needed first.

Clutch,
Fuel,
Turbo,
sticks (if necessary)

I'm willing to drop the money, I just need the proper guidance.

soulezoo

Rip-- using the basic formula of 10psi of boost for 100 HP, then when you just hit that 500 mark, you're in "stud range". If you set the wastegate of the turbo for 45psi, you will not need studs. If you get stix and are wanting to push 550hp, you're going to want the studs. You have read all the stories of "I made 10k HP on 2000lbs of boost and didn't need studs"-- be safe and do the studs before you start making daily 50psi floggings. You won't need them until you get there, but think in these terms (although it's only money) your truck is down in the shop for stix, springs for the 4k smarty tune, you might just as well have them put the studs in too...

Having said that-- if you don't mind dropping the coin, get a set of towing twins and you will really smile!! I love mine!!

jlibert

I agree that studs are a good idea, but not necessary with fuel only with Smarty's timing. I made 551hp on the dyno with 32psi boost. I'm sure he could wastegate his turbo to somewhere around 45psi and provide enough air for 550.

omaharam

Exactly what I was going to say. You don't need 50psi to make 500hp. If you want to run as much boost as possible, then you will want studs so you can run 50psi or whatever. I just recently did studs because I will be switching to a twins set up in a couple months. But without going to twins, I wouldn't have spent the money for the studs.

cquestad

45 psi on a HTB2, Hot Juice, Flux Mileage Beta Injects, and a MP-8 made 527 uncorrected the other day on my 04.5. Nice nice setup for a "mild" truck.

See my other post....

desertchecker

I agree with soulzezoo , except the fact that 45lbs of boost is no guarantee that you will not blow a head gasket ! boost is not the only cause of a blown head gasket , timing & heat , can also contribute to a scored and blown head gasket !
if you set wastegate to 42 lbs and stay with a smarty only, no ez or other timing pressure box stacked , and you keep your egts in check , you could probably get away without , but head studs are going to be the cheapest of all parts you need so why skimp on cheap insurance.

a lot of guys talk boost as in hp , high boost is not directly related to high HP in fact you dont need high boost to make HP , and more boost is not a guarantee of more HP .

I made 655.44 HP 1262 ftlbs of tq exactly with 32lbs of boost on a 40% loaded dyno jet in OD 1-1.
with truck and mods in my sig. 05/03/07 ( corrected )

that run was also done with a blown head gasket & scored head as I found out shortly after.

for some reason when I started building my truck I was thinking I dont need head studs I am only going to push 45lbs of boost , and head studs are only needed for 50lbs or more !
guess what ? I needed head studs ended up costing about 1,300.00 to pull the head pay for shipping to schied $ 150.00 one way incl insurance these heads are heavy plus the cost of studs , the cost of resurfacing the head new gaskets ,fire rings in the head , studs, shipping tax, labor etc.

would it have been cheaper just to do head studs to begain with ? you bet it would of been , oh well some of us dont listen & learn the expensive hard way. try to save a little $ ended up paying more later , in this case a lot more !

soulezoo

Everyone has some good points here to make and there are a lot of truths to them as well. I was speaking in generalities and everyone's experience and truck will be different. I do know of a couple of trucks that saw extended duty seeing regular trips to 65psi without studs and without problems. Would anyone here seriously consider giving advice saying "well my buddy did 65psi without studs so you can too". Of course not, that would be very foolish. But, as was mentioned above, 45psi caused problems on another truck. One thing not mentioned was drive pressures causing failure. More than psi alone, high drive pressures that in turn create very high cylinder pressures do more to hurt a HG than just boost alone. The guys that made the high HP with the low boost in the previous posts-- did you pay attention to the truck years? Rip has an 04. the others were 04.5 and up. We all know it is easier on the newer trucks to make HP. I guess, and this is just my thinking here, he will have plenty of turbo with his choice he listed, (or twins ) drive pressures and airflow should not be an issue and therefore 45psi will be a "cool" airflow. Not like he is trying to drive a HX35 to 45psi. The right mild stix and the rest of his setup he should be sitting just fine, be at or over 500hp and not "need" studs. I would (as I did above) still recommend them, however, as a safety precaution.

rip 112

Thanks snoyes. I agree with everyone. I don't want my truck maxed out, but I don't wanna get crazy with the power. If I do stix I will definitely do studs and probably springs just to get it out of the way. I wasn't clear on the htb2 psi range. Its more getting to 500 than 550 that i'm wanting, but a little extra wouldn't hurt if I can get there safely. I seriously thought about twins, but I don't want to throw the coin on that and everything else. I want a nice, dependable setup that I won't have to worry about.

Poppin Smoke

My .02..... this should get you close....

K&N 63 intake, stock turbo, CFM+ intake horn, Zillaraider I or II (could wait for the Adrenline), Quad Commander w/ fuel, 4in exhaust w/ a deadkitty (Power Pinnacle) and a Fuel Air system (FASS 150/150).

TORQUE BEAST

How do you figure that? I don't see him getting 500+ out of that.

Poppin Smoke

Well it should be pretty close...I pulled 395 with on level 2 with Zilla I, K&N, stock turbo, CFM+ and 4 in exhaust...


So on level 3, should be around 440 mark....
MIA kitty 10 hp...????....
FASS should help with delivery and add another 10-15 hp.
I forgot to add the heater grid delete... there is another 15 hp there...

So total = 475+

rip 112

Again we go back to the fact that I have a early 04 HO, power doesn't come by so easy as on 04.5 and up yrs. A turbo is a necessity, along with clutch and fuel. I'm trying to determine if stix are truly needed to get me there. I've pretty much set myself on a sbc dd 3250 (good choice, or should I stick with a single?) , HTT 64/13-71, an Airdog 100, and some other goodies (bd short throw, more gauges, rhino lining the rockers and bed, etc) I'm just not sure this is the most effective way to do it, that's why I need the opinions of the ones who have done it before and know what to look for. As I said before, I aim to do it right the first time, and if stix and springs are called for, I will do it. I don't need to go overboard.

Big Blue24

If you're gonna drop coin on the double disk, get a bigger badder one.

rip 112

I would, but I'd still like to drive it..... I think the 3250 dd would be a perfect compliment. I fear the 3600 dd would be a little too much.