I have the kolene steels in my trans along with Raybestos Blue clutches. They have grooves in them. They are the best/strongest according to my trans guy.

 

Not a problem... though realize that the front clutches are only applied in 3rd, 4th, and reverse. With the front clutch pack enaged, the input shaft drives the sun gear directly, which drives the rear planetary. With the rear band applied, the rear planetary carrier is held, which means the rear annulus gear (which drives the output shaft) turns counter-clockwise - result=reverse gear. Since you have reverse, it's safe to say your front clutch pack is not the problem.

Guess what I'm finishing up today? Yep - re-installing my transmission... pulled to replace a leaking front seal (then discovered the rear seal was leaking, too)... stripped another tranny pan bolt hole (getting really good at Heli-coils, too), and I stink like ATF. Nothing's ever easy.

What are they? Post 'em and let's try and figure out what's going on.

 

Tom and all Let the ciphering begin, First note that I have a ratchited Crank sensor that I have to immediately replace. The Codes are:
0628
0647
0251
2122
0335
2509
2127

I've been cutting and raking grass all day since I was away for 3 weeks instead of the supposed 3 days.

Then I've been bolting the twins to the jerry rigging to get some rough measurements.

I'll be back in a half an hour and by then the pan will be dropped and the filter will be out. The tranny fluid is definitely got a hint of burn in it which it didn't before I left for Boston. Still clear red with good lubricicity. ks

 

Guys, Dropped the fluid and about 10 liters came out.....8 liter pan an a friend quick on the ball with a 4 L jug....Was cleaning up looked at the plug and it looked long. There was a perfectly intact bolt stuck to it. UhOh. anyway there was no other significant metal on the magnetic plug but the bolt is 1 and 1/4 long and fine thread with an s stamoed on the head. back to the pan. ks

 

Guys, Pan is down, about a dime size worth of metal paste, a quarter size of friction material if put together otherwise pan is surprisingly clean.... The bolt was the front most on th passenger side of the valve body. A thread or two out of the hole was in the pan in about 5 pieces. No black grime, the container of fluid smelled better than the dipstick. I'm gonna look up the codes after a late supper. More codes than damage showing in the pan. When in 4 low reverse then to Park the truck lurched like it was still engaged. Any way this could just be a valve body problem and all clutches are fine. I have a brand new electronic solenoid competition valve body and stand alone controller ready to go in. Thanks, Kerry

 

From the service manual:

NO DRIVE RANGE (REVERSE OK)
1. Fluid Level Low. Add fluid and check for leaks if drive is restored.
2. Gearshift Linkage/Cable Loose/Misadjusted. Repair or replace linkage components.
3. Rear Clutch Burnt. Remove and disassemble transmission and rear clutch and seals. Repair/replace worn or damaged parts as needed.
4. Valve Body Malfunction. Remove and disassemble valve body. Replace assembly if any valves or bores are damaged.
5. Transmission Overrunning Clutch Broken. Remove and disassemble transmission. Replace overrunning clutch.
6. Input Shaft Seal Rings Worn/Damaged. Remove and disassemble transmission. Replace seal rings and any other worn or damaged parts.

Sounds like it might just be a valve body issue. Hopefully it is something simple

 

Thanks Jeff,
Just finished eating and its de coding time. Easy would be good. .This tranny stuff is cutting into my twins time. I'm thinking of waiting till you get back to do the twins as that piece is sort of Job one. We'll see how bad this tranny is.ks

 

Guys, Here are the codes....Almost sounds like a harness on my ECM and PCM might be loose. We had them all apart last week. Just before the tranny went out I hit a huge bump....head hit ceiling kinda bump. HMMMM!!!

Engine Code
0628 Fuel Pump A control circuit low
0647 A/C Clutch Relay Control Circuit High
0251 Injection pump metering control A
2122 Pedal Position Sensor Low
0335 Crank Shaft Position Sensor Malfunction A
2509ECM/PCM Power Input Signal Intermittent
2127 Pedal Position Validation Switch 2 Low

ks

 

Sorry, rear clutch pack is the "forward" clutches as they are engaged in ALL forward gears, front clutch pack is the "direct" clutch pack as they are engaged in drive or direct drive. The OD contains OD clutch pack and OD Direct clutch pack. Been that since the base trans was designed in the 60's and the OD added in the 90's. Don't be trying to change 30 years of tradition.

I suspect that bolt you found was out of the VB. The only question is why did it come out? Loose or stripped the threads out of the trans body? If your lucky its just the VB that has a leak or warped a valve. Cracks in the trans body are near impossible to find, impossible to fix, and will haunt the trans until it is tossed. Hope your luck is holding and you get it fixed.

 

Yep, I'm still working on the tranny. I have another valve body to go in. I have a tranny shop willing to drop the tranny and take it apart for an inspection. Still thinking it might be something stupid before something broke. Gonna check the Cable, The ECM connections and the valve body for something outta place. If anyone can figure out those codes your a genius. ks

 

Guys, The tranny is coming out tomorrow. The guy who built it and the local tranny guy I know both think its the splines on the intermediate shaft or the splines on the carrier. The intermediate is a custom machined stock shaft done by PDR. The Carrier that would be stripped is the one that was aluminum on 94 and 95's but is now steel...It's a 65 dollar part. I threaded the valve body bolt back in the threads were ok for the last 1/4 inch. Check the cable actuation....fine. Checked the ECM and PCM connections and they fine....ECM which was moved for the SCP3.4 install needed a little cushion to keep it from tapping the crossmember...done. Poured out the pan and inspected the fluid....very good shape. Filter Had no surface debris and was black but not excessively so. I don't think anyone makes a better intermediate to carrier connection. If it is the shaft, I'll put in a billet....but I doubt its the shaft. If its the $65 part, I'll be nervous forever. ks

 

i think you broke/cracked the input hub that the input shaft plugs into. It will crack and then you will lose all froward gears and you will have reverse.

 

All the guessing will be over tomorrow!!! She's coming out and will be on the bench in Pieces by noon tomorrow. The problem is most likely at either end of the intermediate shaft. I'm hoping the rear. The parts are available and Cheap. The worst part is that the parts that are gone are most likely parts that as stock only with no billet or aftermarket replacements. We'll see. Maybe I should start a poll. ks