head studs
06-09-2005, 04:09 PM
#3
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i am not a mecanic but i had a short block replaced by DC last summer and had a head gasket failure a few months later.
when dc refused to stand behind it i took it to cummins to get it done right
the reason i was given for the head gasket failure was improper head instalation. they had used the same head bolts (witch were streched ( i assume this is common) , they had not torqed them properly and had not milled the heads.
when dc refused to stand behind it i took it to cummins to get it done right
the reason i was given for the head gasket failure was improper head instalation. they had used the same head bolts (witch were streched ( i assume this is common) , they had not torqed them properly and had not milled the heads.
06-09-2005, 10:12 PM
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You should be abe to install head studs without removing the head. I believe you have to remove the Valve cover, then the lower carrier assembly under the valve cover. You will have to remove all the rocker arms and if I remember correctly the fuel injector feed lines and tubes. It may not be the perfect way but you can remove one bolt at a time and then install the studs. You could probably do it in three hours or so. I think you can even reuse the VC and carrier gaskets. I believe I had to take off the Air intake tube to get the fuel lines removed so I had to replace that gasket. Good luck
06-09-2005, 10:36 PM
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Could be a stupid question, but when you stud a head aren't you supposed to be drilling deeper holes in the block and head to accomodate for longer and stronger studs? Like I said it could be a stupid question...
06-09-2005, 11:49 PM
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I'm not sure about that one. Good point though. I was just assuming like on a small block Chevy you would just be replacing the stock bolts with the same size Studs. I would think if anything was bigger on the studs you'd have to remove the head, Yikes 
06-10-2005, 06:09 AM
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If you are looking to just replace the bolts with 12mm studs (either Haisley or ARPs I assume) them it is a pretty straightforward but time consuming process.
1. remove breather cover and top valve cover
2. Loosen all injector nuts and then remove lower valve cover
3. Remove all rocker arms including splitters and bases
4. There are 26 bolt, so start by removing the #1 bolt in the pattern
5. Use a shop vac & straw to suck out any oil or cutting fluid from the hole
6. Reinstall a stud and thread down as far as possible. Do not tighten it into the bottom of the hole, but just bottom it out finger tight. Don't forget to apply lube to both ends of the stud!
7. Install nut and washer and torque to ~75 ft-lbs.
8. Repeat 4,5,6,&7 for the other 25 bolts (this is the time part... and the back ones are a pain)
9. Once all torqued to a nominal value (~75) torque again to final valve (~120).
10. Reinstall rocker arms, lower valve cover, and injector nuts (be careful on the nuts... break one and the game is over).
11. Start the truck and let it warm up fully. (It will idle and slow rev without the valve cover, but if you're going to rev it up put on the valve cover)
12. Once warm shut off the truck and remove valve cover and rocker arms again.
13. Retorque all studs to final valve.
14. Reinstall rocker arms & check valve clearance
15. Install valve covers and breather cover.
Notes: The six longer studs go in the exhaust side set of holes. Some say to bottom tap the holes, but there is no way a bottom tap will go in the holes under the cowl. IMO the holes on the ISBe blocks are plenty deep, but several of mine had a fair amount of cutting fluid in them that would hydrolock the longer stud if not stucked out.
From start to finish I believe it took about 6 hours, and my fingers were raw from threading all those studs
John
1. remove breather cover and top valve cover
2. Loosen all injector nuts and then remove lower valve cover
3. Remove all rocker arms including splitters and bases
4. There are 26 bolt, so start by removing the #1 bolt in the pattern
5. Use a shop vac & straw to suck out any oil or cutting fluid from the hole
6. Reinstall a stud and thread down as far as possible. Do not tighten it into the bottom of the hole, but just bottom it out finger tight. Don't forget to apply lube to both ends of the stud!
7. Install nut and washer and torque to ~75 ft-lbs.
8. Repeat 4,5,6,&7 for the other 25 bolts (this is the time part... and the back ones are a pain)
9. Once all torqued to a nominal value (~75) torque again to final valve (~120).
10. Reinstall rocker arms, lower valve cover, and injector nuts (be careful on the nuts... break one and the game is over).
11. Start the truck and let it warm up fully. (It will idle and slow rev without the valve cover, but if you're going to rev it up put on the valve cover)
12. Once warm shut off the truck and remove valve cover and rocker arms again.
13. Retorque all studs to final valve.
14. Reinstall rocker arms & check valve clearance
15. Install valve covers and breather cover.
Notes: The six longer studs go in the exhaust side set of holes. Some say to bottom tap the holes, but there is no way a bottom tap will go in the holes under the cowl. IMO the holes on the ISBe blocks are plenty deep, but several of mine had a fair amount of cutting fluid in them that would hydrolock the longer stud if not stucked out.
From start to finish I believe it took about 6 hours, and my fingers were raw from threading all those studs
John
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06-10-2005, 10:35 AM
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I can see I will be doing a lot of swearing that weekend!!!! I have a couple of questions for Banshee ? #1 what type of lube on studs #2 what is the final torque value for the ARP studs. #3 I wanted to do injectors & studs at the same time, But I don't think the EDMs are ready yet. How much of the stud installation will have to be redone when the injectors become available??? Should I just wait for the EDMs to do both as I originally planed ? Thanks for all of the the info , doug
06-10-2005, 11:51 AM
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RamWheelsBy4,
Thanks!
Doug60,
I would use only ARP Moly Assembly lube on the studs. It's pretty slick stuff and will make the torquing more uniform and accurate. The final torque for an ARP stud with ARP lube should be 125-130 lb-ft. Some say more or less, but that value will put the stud at a pretty good clamp without damaging it.
The EDMs for the 305 motors are done but I'm not sure on the 600s. If you are looking at doing injectors then doing them both at the same time would save a little time. To swap injectors you have to pull the breather, upper and lower valve covers, pull the exhaust rocker arms/splitter, remove the air horn, remove the driver's side engine lift bracket, and remove the fuel rail & lines as an assembly. Once all that is off you remove the connector tube nut & pull the connector tube out a little, remove the two injector holddown bolts, and then gently pry the injector out of its seat. The only thing you would save by doing both is removing the covers and exhaust rockers... about 15 mins worth of work. If anything, waiting a couple weeks after the studs may be better as it would give you a good chance to check the stud torque again. Neither one, installing studs or swapping injectors, is very hard on the 3rd gens, but they're pretty time consuming. I'll say without a doubt that it's more work on these trucks than a 2nd gen.
Also, torque on the rocker arm studs is 38nm (I went 30 lb-ft), and the injector holddown bolts are 10 nm. Everything else I just used german torque.... goodandtight
John
Thanks!
Doug60,
I would use only ARP Moly Assembly lube on the studs. It's pretty slick stuff and will make the torquing more uniform and accurate. The final torque for an ARP stud with ARP lube should be 125-130 lb-ft. Some say more or less, but that value will put the stud at a pretty good clamp without damaging it.
The EDMs for the 305 motors are done
but I'm not sure on the 600s. If you are looking at doing injectors then doing them both at the same time would save a little time. To swap injectors you have to pull the breather, upper and lower valve covers, pull the exhaust rocker arms/splitter, remove the air horn, remove the driver's side engine lift bracket, and remove the fuel rail & lines as an assembly. Once all that is off you remove the connector tube nut & pull the connector tube out a little, remove the two injector holddown bolts, and then gently pry the injector out of its seat. The only thing you would save by doing both is removing the covers and exhaust rockers... about 15 mins worth of work. If anything, waiting a couple weeks after the studs may be better as it would give you a good chance to check the stud torque again. Neither one, installing studs or swapping injectors, is very hard on the 3rd gens, but they're pretty time consuming. I'll say without a doubt that it's more work on these trucks than a 2nd gen.Also, torque on the rocker arm studs is 38nm (I went 30 lb-ft), and the injector holddown bolts are 10 nm. Everything else I just used german torque.... goodandtight
John
06-10-2005, 12:11 PM
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I forgot one other thing....
You'll have to take either a die grinder or dremel too with a small metal cutting stone/bit to grind a scallop out of the lower valve cover/box to clear the cetner rear stud. The stock bolt head is lower than the nuts are plus the stud will stick up through the nut a couple/few threads. The cover also goes over the stud in the very front of the motor (you can see this one if you look at the motor as the bolt is outside the valve cover), but it has more clearance than the rear one does. Some guys have also had to grind the front... either they had longer studs or they didn't get them down far enough (hydrolock?). Just a heads up I remembered!!
John
You'll have to take either a die grinder or dremel too with a small metal cutting stone/bit to grind a scallop out of the lower valve cover/box to clear the cetner rear stud. The stock bolt head is lower than the nuts are plus the stud will stick up through the nut a couple/few threads. The cover also goes over the stud in the very front of the motor (you can see this one if you look at the motor as the bolt is outside the valve cover), but it has more clearance than the rear one does. Some guys have also had to grind the front... either they had longer studs or they didn't get them down far enough (hydrolock?). Just a heads up I remembered!!
John
06-17-2005, 06:50 PM
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sorry to bother but, banshee instructed to install #1 stud in the pattern. what is the correct sequence for installing & torquing the studs?? Thanks doug