Which is harder on the trans?
#1
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Which is harder on the trans?
I drive like a grandma most of the time. I drive with my SMARTY on SW#3 most of the time but once in a while I will roll out SW#5. As I said I drive like Ethel, but on occasion I do like to "Roll some coal". With SMARTY, which is harder on the trans, lugging it around 1600-1900rpm's and rolling the coal or slamming the pedal down and running through the gears? I only lug it when I want to roll some coal, other than that I drive normal, very light on the go pedal and no jack rabbit starts. Just trying to see what I can do with this SMARTY to not ruin my trans.....
#4
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^^^ what he said x2. I ran higher levels in Smarty with no problems even though it is not, and I do not recommend it. The difference was I drove conservatively until the TC was locked.
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With my Smarty on level 3 I was able to slip the TC in lockup. Be careful. Lugging means a high EGT and working it hard at 1600 RPM means a possible burned up TC clutch. Watch the tach for signs of slipping. Better to get the revs up.
John
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#10
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I would have to disagree. The weekest part of the 48re is the TC. Before it's locked, it's suppose to slip. The problem comes in when it is suppose to be locked and the truck has enough power that it slips those locked clutches.
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I have burned up forward clutches and bands in two 48REs, so I would say hard launches and WOT runs is the hardest on "stock" or "lightly modded"(TC/VB) trannies. My TCs have been fine, and I drive my truck like I stole it.
#12
This is fine, until the computer tells the TC to lock at WOT after a 1-2 shift.
When a TC is already locked, it can hold a lot more power than say, a TC that is unlocked and then told to lock. The slipping clutch then has to overcome the torque of the motor and stop the slip, as opposed to simply holding the the torque when already locked.
I learned this drag racing my '03 with a NV5600 and a stock clutch. If I hammered the throttle in gear with the clutch out, it would hold. If I hammered the trottle before the clutch grabbed after a shift, it would not grab until I lifted the throttle.
The same will apply to a TC. The only real difference is that the TC is a wet clutch.
#14
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Sure, it's supposed to slip saving the rest of the trans.
This is fine, until the computer tells the TC to lock at WOT after a 1-2 shift.
When a TC is already locked, it can hold a lot more power than say, a TC that is unlocked and then told to lock. The slipping clutch then has to overcome the torque of the motor and stop the slip, as opposed to simply holding the the torque when already locked.
I learned this drag racing my '03 with a NV5600 and a stock clutch. If I hammered the throttle in gear with the clutch out, it would hold. If I hammered the trottle before the clutch grabbed after a shift, it would not grab until I lifted the throttle.
The same will apply to a TC. The only real difference is that the TC is a wet clutch.
This is fine, until the computer tells the TC to lock at WOT after a 1-2 shift.
When a TC is already locked, it can hold a lot more power than say, a TC that is unlocked and then told to lock. The slipping clutch then has to overcome the torque of the motor and stop the slip, as opposed to simply holding the the torque when already locked.
I learned this drag racing my '03 with a NV5600 and a stock clutch. If I hammered the throttle in gear with the clutch out, it would hold. If I hammered the trottle before the clutch grabbed after a shift, it would not grab until I lifted the throttle.
The same will apply to a TC. The only real difference is that the TC is a wet clutch.
No. With an extra 100hp with the truck already locked in 4th gear, if you mash the pedal it will slip the TC. I know this for a fact as I have done it with two different trucks.