H2O Pressure
04-29-2007, 07:44 PM
#91
Banned
Thanks for the diagram. Where did you find that?
Also, do you think tee-ing off of the feed line before the t-stat and somehow running another coolant line to the back of the head at or before number six cylinder might aid in cooling? I seem to remember something like this being done on high performance small blocks to help cool off the hotter running rear cylinders.
Also, do you think tee-ing off of the feed line before the t-stat and somehow running another coolant line to the back of the head at or before number six cylinder might aid in cooling? I seem to remember something like this being done on high performance small blocks to help cool off the hotter running rear cylinders.
I got the diagram from the shop service manual.
I still think the cab heater lines would be a good place to place a bypass valve. To help with both pressure and flow stagnation issues.
04-29-2007, 07:47 PM
#92
Check under the intake manifold. You will find a 1/2 return line that is used to prevent stagnation of the coolant in the block. I think there is another tap near to the recirc line port. You could also look at using the block coolant drain plug to install a gauge.
If you want worse case dead head pressure use one of the head ports near the back of the head by #6.
If you want worse case dead head pressure use one of the head ports near the back of the head by #6.
yeah the head is where they suggest hooking a gauge but if there is a cylinder port I wanna try that first.
04-29-2007, 07:56 PM
#93
Registered User
Can you descibe a simple bypass that would work using the heater lines? I'm just trying to do something so I don't run into this problem...
04-29-2007, 08:07 PM
#94
does that make sense???
04-29-2007, 08:45 PM
#96
Banned
I bet you could take out one of the head plugs and install a nipple (just like they use for the heater hoses --dealer part??) and connect that to the top hose...then it may run cold all the time????but if you put a old cable style heater valve in the line you could control it when ever you wanted from the cab
does that make sense???
does that make sense???
04-30-2007, 08:12 AM
#98
Registered User
04-30-2007, 11:14 AM
#100
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Why don't you tap into the frost plug that is blowing out???? Seems like the best place to read the PSI.
Has anyone thought of installing a gauge with memory?????????????????????
You may not see the PSI increase fast enough on a regular gauge. Abviously day to day driving PSI will NOT equal what racing conditions. If it is that fast of a reaction for the plug to pop out, then by the time you realize its popped the pressure reading you see will NOT be accurate. Needless to say most of us have enough gauges to try and keep track of already!!!!!!!!!!!!!
04-30-2007, 03:13 PM
#101
that plug is THIN!! and I don't think there's any way in the world you could tap it or weld it???plus my truck is still stock. I don't think I have the computer programing or the turbo to blow a plug, so I am not in a huge hurry to hack it up just for a gauge.
I still need to look again but the plug I posted above is probably the best place to read it???
04-30-2007, 06:07 PM
#103
04-30-2007, 11:05 PM
#104
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i will wait a few weeks to allow some corrosion to stain my plate, then pull it off. i should have a nice ring giving me the exact location of the plug in relation to the bolt pattern. then i will make a new plate and machine a groove into it. just gimme time, if someone else beats me to it, thanks for helping out.
05-11-2007, 03:26 PM
#105
Registered User
Thread Starter
OK guys - I got the parts ordered today for the freeze plug BlowOut Eliminator kit... should be into the shop early next week, so I'll have the coolant pressure gauge and BOE kit installed before the Ardmore drags next weekend. 