got 315"s yesterday with the H2 wheels yestday and as i was putting them on i realized that the hub is to small to fit over the wheel. I was thinking about getting them drilled out, i never remember hearing about this problem when you guys were putting them on you're trucks. is there any way around this?

 

I think everyone has drilled them out..Try using the search function, it works wonders

 

I had a machine shop turn mine on a big lathe. Since they are hub centric, they have to be opened up to the exact size of the factory wheels. I don't have the exact measurements, but hoot has a great post with pictures on dieselplace.com.

 

4 3/4" holesaw has been working for most.

 

h2's are so lame I wouldn't want any part of one on my truck, with a dodge cap or not

 

you need to open them to 4.774" I just did mine and they dont fit on my truck so whoopie! anyway, I hear alot of people useing hole saws. The best way is a milling machine I think. I ended up using a dremmel 2 bits and a hone. I cant say if thats better or worse then the hole saw. because the stores here selll every size hole saw but 4.75 inch.

 

4.75'' hole saw and let it chatter around a little to open it up just a tad more then smooth out with grinding disk to take off rough areas. For the money these wheels work great and don't look too bad either.

 

Dodge SRW trucks are not hubcentric, look at your lug nuts, they are conical and the lug holes on the wheels are convex. They center on the lugs not the hubs.

 

If they don't pilot on the hubs then using hole saws and grinders etc. is OK. If they pilot on the hubs then they need to be accurate so a lathe would be much better and safer. Going down the road with an off centered wheel is asking for real trouble.

 

I believe the DRW axle/lugs, etc pilot on the center hole, but the front does not, nor do the front or rear of the 2500's. I think the only problem is going to be somebody that is putting these on a DRW axle. But then again, who would want to make the mods to the bed, etc? What a pain in the butt! Seems like I've heard of a few people doing it though.

 

H2 wheels are not for use on the back of duallies! They are for the SRW trucks. They do not center on the hub, they center on the lug nuts. Just take a look at them. With 8 tapered lug nuts they have to center on the nuts, not the hub. It's just comon sense. They just need enough clearance around the hub to not bind as the nuts tighten down. Many aftermarket wheels have been centered on the nuts for years, it's not rocket science.
Almost every post on this subject has mentioned something about opening up the center hole and all the success many of us have had with these wheels. I have about twenty thousand miles on mine now and will never go back to stock. Some may think they're lame and that's fine with me, I love them. They look great, they drive great, and they work really well off road. They are cheap, strong, and readily available. If you don't like them then don't get them. There are a lot of choices out there and no reason to all be the same. I love seeing all the new ideas people come up with.
I don't know why there is still a debate about wether they have to be opened up, or if they work, or if they have to be concentric with the hub. Can't we move on now that we have found a good thing and made it work so well?
When a new poster comes along and doesn't take the time to do a search, and benefit from all that others have written about, it doesn't mean we have to start over and debate the basics that have been settled for a long time.
Sorry for the attitude, but sheesh. Isn't this a settled issue?

Wetspirit

 

It is for some of us, but there are those that keep saying the wheels on the SRW trucks are hub centric, which as we know is wrong.

 

I don't want to get into an arguement over this but I did the conversion and noticed the original STOCK premium wheels had a very close fit.... within .003" on the hubs..... front and back. The back looks decieving. It looks like there is more clearance but once you remove the stock rims you's notice it's practically a press fit on a raised section.

D/C would not spend the extra money it takes to keep both the axle hubs and the wheel bore diameters within thousands of an inch if there wasn't a purpose.

GM trucks are hub centric and they also have conical lugnut seats.

Here is a picture of the factory wheels over the rear hub....



And here is the raised land on the hub that creates a close fit... the stock wheel had contact corrosion on the insides of the bores.



I won't argue the pros and cons of going either lug or hubcentric but I feel better knowing mine are a factory fit.

All you guys that grinded or hole sawed your wheels probably use a sawzall to install aftermarket radios and a chainsaw to get clearance for you tires just teasing..


If it works for you and you don't have vibration or loosening lugnuts than you should be fine. I just don't think you should be spreading BS to justify your method. Others may do what you did


Here is my article...

H2 Wheel Install

 

So are all aftermarket rims for the Dodge and GM hubcentric? I don't think so. Look at the Ford SRW wheels, they are truely hubcentric, they have non-tappered lug nuts with built in washers. I would not call discussing this spreading BS, you are the only one who keeps insisting on the hub centric issue.

 

All aftermarket wheels for GM and Dodge may not be correct either.

Based on my above post, do you think they are hubcentric and D/C simply makes the center hub a close fit just because it costs more to do so? Do you think D/C spec's the AAM axles with a precision dia. land on all four hubs just because it costs more? Be realistic here. Hubcentric means the wheel is primarily located by the HUB and that is exactly what we have. Nothing more, nothing less. Call a spade a spade. For you guys to say they AREN'T hubcentric is BS in my opinion when the FACT is they are a precision fit an all four hubs. I recall a previous post by someone who stated the rears were not a close fit. That was the justification for coming to the non-hubcentric conclusion. Well guess what... the observation was incorrect. Now what?

Now excuse me while I go get my hole saw.... I'm putting a set of H2 rims on my tractor


Teasing you guys... Hey if it runs true and you got no vibes... be happy. Keep an eye on your lug nuts for a while. I don't mean that to be smart. Mine too. Lug nuts on aluminum wheels sometimes have a tendancy to get loose from heat and corrosion under the mating surfaces.

Please don't get mad at me for standing my ground... based on facts.

BTW: I measured the hubs and the wheels. The sizes were .007 diameter difference between the hole in the wheel and the land on the hubs and exactly consistant on all measurements. That equates to a .0035 gap between the hub and the inner dia. of the wheel. The wheels are precision machined... you can see the lathe tool marks in it. The steel on the axles is also precision machined... you can see the lathe marks in them also. My arguement is D/C... being the cost cutting company they have shown to have been would not have spent the extra time and money to perform those precision operations without having a definate need for it.

Here's an example how cheap D/C is. They are now using AAM axles... same as GM. The rear axle has a big area cast into the bottom of the pumkin to accomidate a drain plug. GM has it, D/C didn't bother. Saves cost in machiniing and the extra parts (plug and gasket).