GPH tested on modified in tank lift pump
#1
GPH tested on modified in tank lift pump
I bought a replacement tank module which has the in tank lift pump in it from Mopar a few months back. Using some info from the Glacier website I blocked off the bypass regulator. I just got around to testing it today. Pressure numbers are already given at 14 psi. I ran this thing freeflow and only got 45GPH. At 14 psi and up 10 feet of fuel line through a filter then into the CP3 I don't think it will be that good a flow numbers. The holley blue pump guys are using flow 96GPH if I remember correctly and they make 14psi and can make 18 with a moroso spring kit. Only problem Holley blue pumps don't have a great reliabilty reputation on street cars with gasoline. Diesel may lubricate the vanes better but who knows. I feel the hottest ticket would be a walbro in the tank and the regulator as close to the engine as possible.
WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK OF 45GPH @ 14 psi?
Another problem I have is somehow I screwed up the venturi whatchamacallit in the bottom of the pump module. When the fuel would get below cup it would run dry. Something is not working now that I took that apart and put back together. I would like to find the old fuel level module from a 2004 prior to a in tank lift pump service bulliten fix. I have got some tricks I think would work out well with this.
WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK OF 45GPH @ 14 psi?
Another problem I have is somehow I screwed up the venturi whatchamacallit in the bottom of the pump module. When the fuel would get below cup it would run dry. Something is not working now that I took that apart and put back together. I would like to find the old fuel level module from a 2004 prior to a in tank lift pump service bulliten fix. I have got some tricks I think would work out well with this.
#3
try putting a fuel sock around your pickup it will perhaps fix you r problem when i did my intank mods if the truck went below half tank i could sometimes suck air added the fuel sock and things are back to normal...
#5
I just installed the Walbro 392 kit with the big fuel lines and I used the performance shim kit to bring my pressure to 28 psi,I took out the screen on the bottom of the sending unit and put a 24 micro inline fuel strainer to make up for the screen, I also added the 2 micron fuel filter between the stock fuel filter and the CP3 pump. At idle my presssure stas at 28 psi and if I put in in 4wd lock up the brakes and bring my boost up to 20 psi the fuel pressure dropped to 27 psi for about a half a second and went right back up. I very happy with this system its very easy to change your pressure,fuel filters,fuel strainer and the pump if it ever goes bad.
#6
The reason you are sucking dry once your fuel level gets below the yellow fuel pickup module is because you blocked off the bypass. The bypass keeps fuel moving, it pumps the excess fuel into the yellow fuel module. By you bypassing it, it now sucks and push's by.
One of the important words Rich did at the Glacial website was the reason the pump is at low PSI and high volume is to pull the fuel through the bottom screen. If you increase your PSI and decrease your volume (pump won't move as much fuel at a high psi, you will run it dry cause it's not sucking through. Pressure and Volume work together, but a bit different
One of the important words Rich did at the Glacial website was the reason the pump is at low PSI and high volume is to pull the fuel through the bottom screen. If you increase your PSI and decrease your volume (pump won't move as much fuel at a high psi, you will run it dry cause it's not sucking through. Pressure and Volume work together, but a bit different
#7
It was after talking to Rich I tried as suggested blocking off the bypass in the H fixture. Rich had already done pressure test coming up with 14 psi. I was curious the volume because pressure makes no difference if the pump can't deliver fuel. As to the fuel cup not staying full after the fuel level is down this is something, I beleive, got screwed up when I pulled lower unit apart and had to surgically put back together. Do not do this if you want to modify just cut H fixture and block off by pass. The lower part of pump has an exhuast port that works the venturi in the bottom that is believed to keep the flap up while pumping fuel and keep the module full of fuel.
What I am asking is will 45GPH output keep the CP3 fed at high demand better than a stock in tank lift pump. This is the question if you are wanting to try this modification. I am probably going to try something else maybe a walbro and regulator in tank.
What I am asking is will 45GPH output keep the CP3 fed at high demand better than a stock in tank lift pump. This is the question if you are wanting to try this modification. I am probably going to try something else maybe a walbro and regulator in tank.
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#8
Originally Posted by abc4yew
Hmmmm, Fass 150 at 50psi drew down to 30psi on one dyno run.... at 20psi on 3/0 it went to 0.....Need 200gph at 40 to 50 FASS is POS ing me off. Too much suction on the CP3.4 ks
#9
free increased fuel pressure fix.
I have blocked the stock intank pump on an 01 and achieved 23 psi,it was to much pressure for a vp44,so have changed to a stronger spring in the bypass to achieve a lower 17 psi.The stock intank pump put out 13 psi and could drop it down to 5 at wot.My truck is completely stock but believe this is a free viable option for increased fuel pressure,See my complete instructions on this forum to make the adjustment.
Last edited by dennismorgan; 09-13-2013 at 10:41 PM. Reason: clearer explanation
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