MikeyB

Thanks Gypsyman. The 391 should work on a mildly bombed engine.

MikeyB

Dieseljunkie

This is very interesting.. I was looking at doing a FASS eventually, but here is my question.. Ive got an 04.5 but its got an in tank lift pump that was replaced under warranty. Originally, the pump was on the motor, but as a warranty item, Dodge moved the pump from the motor, into the gas tank, similar to the 05's, so should I wait for the 05 pricing to come out before I express more interest, or will the current 04.5 kit work with my application?
Scott

Gypsyman

Dieseljunkie,

You actually have two choices. Option one is to run the standard kit with a separate pickup tube. In my opinion the best option would be to go back to the non-pump factory pickup module. Most dealerships will just give them to you when they do a conversion on a truck. Just make sure that you get one from the correct capacity tank.

One way or another I can put together a package that will work for you. I'm doing everything I can to meet everyone's needs no matter what combination they're stuck with.

Richard

TAS05CTD610

That's great that your working on putting together kits for people (thought you could only buy the kit listed) I was looking at the kit you have now would work on my truck but wouldn't need the mount for the fuel filter, or any of that wiring (just a pick up line for in tank use) Do we call you at the glacial diesel number or do you prefer PM's ect?? I want to do the 392 kit, just want to see what exactly I need to do.

Gypsyman

Just give me a call after 8:00 am Pacific and we can talk about your exact needs. I've pieced together quite a few sub-kits to get people's projects complete and installed. There's more options to this than one might think.

Gotta' run for now. I'm fighting the flu and sleep is at a premium. Talk to you tomorrow.

Richard

043500QC

Hey Richard, whats the differance between your Performance kit and the Competition kit ? You have both kits using either pump, but there`s really no explaination of the differance between the two.

cquestad

a tuning kit for the regulator...?

Gypsyman

The tuning kit for the regulator is one item. The biggest difference is the bypass location. Some of the user wanted even lower pressures and other were concerned by filter plugging. I moved the bypass location on the performance kits to pre-filter so the guys without gauges don't have to worry about filter condition. The Comp kits bypass right at the CP-3 and have slightly oversized fittings.

As Dodge owners we've become so accustomed to seeing poor fuel pressure that anytime someone sees over 17 psi they start to get nervous. It will take a while for us as a group to become accustomed to seeing real, consistent fuel pressure. It bothered me to have to offer the kit in two forms just because I know how well it works with the bypass point at the CP-3 inlet. I want these to be as perfect as I know they can be, period. It's my product so it's my reputation and I take that very personally. De-tuning (if you can call it that) the basic kits sat wrong with me at first but I'm trying to cover every user type and have something to offer everyone.

In a nutshell here is what people are seeing and why. Pushing fuel thru the stock filter, banjos and the .220 hardline from the filter to the CP-3 causes additional restriction to the tune of about 3 to 5 psi. Having 17 psi pre-filter means that you've only got about 12 to 15 at the CP-3. So what happens when you nail the throttle? Inlet pressures drop dramatically versus pressures actually seen at the filter due to the restrictions between the two. This is the beauty of the Comp system. 100% of the fuel flow has to make it to the inlet of the CP-3 before it ever has a chance to return to the tank. To have good flow at the CP-3 inlet requires higher pressure at the filter housing to overcome the pressure drop.

The guys running the monster, rail draining injectors and 392 Comp version are seeing 25 psi at idle and can only pull down to about 21 psi. Amazing performance in my opinion. The same kit in Performance trim (pre-filter bypass) will act more in the traditional manner. Roughly 18 to 20 psi at idle depending on fuel temp with a pull down to about 14 psi on the mat.

Things will be a little slow to catch on until we begin to raise our expectations regarding fuel systems. That's ok with me. I'd rather sell 10 of something I believe in 100% than a 1000 of something I don't believe in. It sure makes it easier to sleep at night.

Sorry for the long winded explanation. I have a tendency to get off on a runner when I start talking about this stuff.

lmills

Richard, I hardly ever see below 30 psi now that I bumped the idle pressure up to feed the stage 2 CP3.

Gypsyman

Nice Lloyd... That's one thing I have noticed with these pumps. The higher you run the pressure into the pumps normal operating range the better they perform and recover pressure.

That's a good looking signature ya' got there. Great numbers man! I guess these little pumps really can feed the dog.

It cracks me up how many people think I sent them a bad pump at first because they can't hear them running. LOL.

BTW, how's that Stage 2 treating you?

Richard

lmills

well, I can tell you this much, those numbers you see in the sig were done with a popped rail relief. I am still waiting for the replacement, it is supposed to be here today. All I can say is, look out. Here we come.

67Charger383HP

How does this kit remove the factory pump on an 04.5? I am getting close to buying in, but want to know if the factory pump is still inline or not. I would prefer not...

Thanks!

lmills

I think, theres an adapter that bolts onto the filter housing that replaces the factory lift pump.

Gypsyman

As Lloyd said the stock pump is replaced by an adapter. The factory pump harness is plugged into the new relay harness so that the ECM still has control of the pump and all functions stay just as they are now for priming and starting.

Richard

Raspy

I have the setup that places the relief at the CP3. I put it on the relief line about six inches away from the CP3. I also have a gauge on the filter inlet block (thanks again Richard). So I can see the filter inlet pressure with the engine off or idling, but not while driving. This is an interesting dignostic tool and a great setup to blow out the air after a filter change. All air is removed from the CP3 inlet area, I don't see how there could ever be an air problem with this. I can always see at a glance if there is fuel pressure, and therefore a working pump. I can also begin to see a clogged fuel filter as the pressure would be higher than normal. But, maybe in the most extreme situation, the pressure in the filter could get high enough to pop the lid off the filter body if the filter was severly clogged. However, if the relief was before the filter, and it became clogged, the engine would starve and there would be no way to confirm it with the gauge.
I installed my new pump before I changed the filter so I could see what was going on. Then I took a few readings under different conditions with the new filter and recorded them. The filter had not been changed for about 60,000 miles so I was overdue.
1. Cool engine in the morning, new pump and gauge installed and all air blown out, old filter with 60,000 miles. Pressure - 21.4 PSI engine off.
2. Change filter to new NAPA Gold (Wix), old filter looks black (algae?), engine still cool, air blown out (key cycled four times to operate pump at about 25 seconds each cycle). Pressure - 22.3 PSI engine off.
3. Next morning with engine cool (after running around the previous day)
pressure - 23.4 PSI engine off.
4. Several days and about 400 miles later. Engine warm after driving and then sitting a few hours on a hot day. Pressure - 20.5 PSI engine off, and engine running.

With this configuration I can tell at a glance if there is a noticeable pressure increase and therefore see a clogging filter. I like changing fuel filters by pressure differential and did it that way for years on my boat. I thought it was interesting in this case that the new filter was more restrictive than the old one. And the pressure is affected, more than I would have guessed, by temperature. Again, the only problem I can imagine ever happening would be if there was a sudden severe clog in the filter. This could drive the pressure high enough to pop the filter lid. It seems very unlikely and a billet lid would fix that. Or a second relief at the filter inlet that was set lower than the lid popping pressure. This whole thing is a significant improvement over the stock LP, the reliability should be much better, it can be fixed easily, and the gauge is a useful tool.


John