G56 took a dump today
06-19-2008 | 09:25 PM
#1
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From: bean station, tn
G56 took a dump today
Looks like my tranny lost 4th gear today just normal everyday driving and pow 4th gear is gone
. This has happen to a friend of mine twice but he was at the track both times. Does anyone make stronger internal part for these things or do i need to switch to something else.
. This has happen to a friend of mine twice but he was at the track both times. Does anyone make stronger internal part for these things or do i need to switch to something else.
the same thing happened to my grandfathers 07 last month 
06-20-2008 | 07:16 AM
#5
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From: Surrey BC Canada (it's not that bad eh!)
06-20-2008 | 09:53 AM
#6
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 308
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From: Kingsport, TN
Unruly from NC blew his G56, 4th gear too I believe. But he was making over 600hp and running 40" tires. I think we are starting to see that they aren't as durable as the NV5600. He also bought the tool kit needed to rebuild his but the Germans are keeping the parts price so high. I think replacement parts were like $1900, rebuilt was just a little more with good friend hookup. Maybe he will chime in. Tac
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06-20-2008 | 10:37 AM
#9
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,785
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From: Pattonville, Texas
Is 3rd still fine?
Any difference in how the shifter feels or works?
I've seen the shift forks crack or completely separate from the shift rails due to insufficient welds. 3-4 syncros seem to be a little tighter than the others (easy to feel when the shifter is out), and the reverse fork/rail gets abused for obvious reasons - such as premature reverse gear selection and pattern swapping with the NV5600. 1-2 doesn't get used as much and the 5-6 forks have a stronger fulcrum design (as opposed to the other forks' cantilevered design), since they rotate on case-mounted pins.
The FSM specs a horde of special-purpose high-dollar tools for G56 internal surgery, but it doesn't require much of anything that a real mechanic wouldn't already have. Pullers, press, dial indicators and a toaster oven (err... bearing preheater!
). Oh yeah - and a strong back, cause the dang mainshaft is like 100# and you have to use your other hand to lift the countershaft out of the way for reverse. 
Any difference in how the shifter feels or works?
I've seen the shift forks crack or completely separate from the shift rails due to insufficient welds. 3-4 syncros seem to be a little tighter than the others (easy to feel when the shifter is out), and the reverse fork/rail gets abused for obvious reasons - such as premature reverse gear selection and pattern swapping with the NV5600. 1-2 doesn't get used as much and the 5-6 forks have a stronger fulcrum design (as opposed to the other forks' cantilevered design), since they rotate on case-mounted pins.
The FSM specs a horde of special-purpose high-dollar tools for G56 internal surgery, but it doesn't require much of anything that a real mechanic wouldn't already have. Pullers, press, dial indicators and a toaster oven (err... bearing preheater!
). Oh yeah - and a strong back, cause the dang mainshaft is like 100# and you have to use your other hand to lift the countershaft out of the way for reverse. 
06-20-2008 | 11:34 AM
#11
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Joined: Dec 2007
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From: bean station, tn
Is 3rd still fine?
Any difference in how the shifter feels or works?
I've seen the shift forks crack or completely separate from the shift rails due to insufficient welds. 3-4 syncros seem to be a little tighter than the others (easy to feel when the shifter is out), and the reverse fork/rail gets abused for obvious reasons - such as premature reverse gear selection and pattern swapping with the NV5600. 1-2 doesn't get used as much and the 5-6 forks have a stronger fulcrum design (as opposed to the other forks' cantilevered design), since they rotate on case-mounted pins.
The FSM specs a horde of special-purpose high-dollar tools for G56 internal surgery, but it doesn't require much of anything that a real mechanic wouldn't already have. Pullers, press, dial indicators and a toaster oven (err... bearing preheater!). Oh yeah - and a strong back, cause the dang mainshaft is like 100# and you have to use your other hand to lift the countershaft out of the way for reverse.
Attachment 22662
Any difference in how the shifter feels or works?
I've seen the shift forks crack or completely separate from the shift rails due to insufficient welds. 3-4 syncros seem to be a little tighter than the others (easy to feel when the shifter is out), and the reverse fork/rail gets abused for obvious reasons - such as premature reverse gear selection and pattern swapping with the NV5600. 1-2 doesn't get used as much and the 5-6 forks have a stronger fulcrum design (as opposed to the other forks' cantilevered design), since they rotate on case-mounted pins.
The FSM specs a horde of special-purpose high-dollar tools for G56 internal surgery, but it doesn't require much of anything that a real mechanic wouldn't already have. Pullers, press, dial indicators and a toaster oven (err... bearing preheater!
). Oh yeah - and a strong back, cause the dang mainshaft is like 100# and you have to use your other hand to lift the countershaft out of the way for reverse. Attachment 22662
I still have all the other gears but have all the metal in the case from losing the gear. Guess i have a 5 speed now
. I still have that sick feeling in my stomach from hearing it let go. Anyone know where i can pick one up cheap i need to get this thing back on the road ASAP. And build another one and have it sitting at the house for when this happens again.
06-20-2008 | 03:50 PM
#14
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Joined: Aug 2007
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Mine has been rattling in 5th and 6th from day one, it gets on my nerves and i know it isn't really normal but what are ya to do!
I changed the fluids to fully synthetic, it seemed to quiet it down a little but still rattles! I wish some one would start making billet stuff for these things!
I changed the fluids to fully synthetic, it seemed to quiet it down a little but still rattles! I wish some one would start making billet stuff for these things!
