But have any of those cams been pulled and inspected? Just a question. How many miles in that year will matter as well. I do know that too heavy a spring will wear out a cam as well as lifters. Not saying I know that to be the case with the F1 springs and the stock cam, only sharing what someone told me.

 

I so want the springs. Of course I want the cam, but that is a huge dollar job for me.

 

Right on I would do the springs when i was in there as well.

I 2 didnt plann on running over 3500 RPMs though just kinda happend

 

The Pro/Sport springs will run on a stock cam as well or better than a factory spring will. Especially past 3500 RPM when the stock spring can no longer control the tappet and valve. Causing the tappet to bang on the cam lobe face.

We tested them first on a stock cam. For months, for hundreds of hours in multiple trucks.

I will go out on a limb here and tell everyone that we have done more testing than anyone on the 24V engines ( both 24 and CR ) valvetrain than anyone.

We had the first design of an affordable spring solution to the enterprise engine system that uses a titanium retainer, titaniun bridge and titanium spring. We struggled to get a spring that would "drop-in" and work with the stock spring bridges, and retainers with out failure. The Pro/Sports do this. We have never had a retainer, lock or bridge failure and we keep the vavletrain under control. Several of the recent entries into the Cummins performance market have had failures.

After a year or so, some in the industry figured out who was making our spring for us. With only 3 major players in the industry producing springs it was easy for them. Many of them are selling and telling people they "have the F1 Springs" at a lower cost. Nothing could be further from the truth. We perform secondary processes here locally to the raw springs we receive. Additional heat treating among them. This gives them long life and the perfect spring rate we were looking for.

 

Great post Don! Thanks for your input!

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John_P

 

that's why I was waiting for your input.

 

i love mine they kill it and i know they are quality parts that i dont have to worrie about since they are proven in trucks putting down alot more then mine does. i am always warrie of what companys sell you and tell you but when you see the cams and springs in a 1300hp truck on fuel only pulling sleds with no issues all year, that is what made me buy my set.

 

One more. Is it necessary to pull the head when installing?

 

not if you have the right spring tool you can do the springs with the head on the motor

 

I've been wondering how that would work. Does the cylinder you're working on have to be at TDC? Otherwise the valves slide into the cylinder as soon as you remove the keepers right?

 

Yes the cylinder you are working on needs to be at tdc. You can do cyl 1 and 6 at the same time and 2 and 5 and last 3 and 4. They are at tdc at the same time. Once you have the head stripped and the injectors out, you can do all 24 springs in a hour or so. Use a magnet to retrieve the keepers and grease to hold them in place during r & r. Tim