yes sir, I tore down the engine today only to find lots of metal shavings and two broken damper bolts. Other than that things looked pretty good.
Valve seats look good, head gasket was perfect, push rods ace.
The problem should be found tomorrow, I will pull the remainder drop the pan and see.
Signs of the problem loud rattle after 1600 rpm, rattle continued after throttle was released.

Second subject
I installed a Fluid Damper 2000miles ago. I installed the damper my way and DID not follow Justin's advice nor Fluid Dampers advice. When using a damper under high horsepower applications a second dowel pin should be installed. I neglected to do this and guess what two bolts are sheered off along with the dowel pin.
Since my bottom end will come apart I will have this repaired.

So after I find out what's up, I will be in the market for more parts. My guess is crank bearings, I hope the crank is OK.

I'm dirty and blue


Don my injectors are on route for an inspection...via UPS over night

 

Man that sux, Hope for the best and the crank is OK. Were the shavings lead, steel, or brass?

 

Metal, and I think I could see some brass as well.

 

BUMMER DUDE!!! that SUX for sure...so maybe that was not the injectors rattling on you last dyno vid??? is that what made you tear it down??Good luck buddy let us know what else you find!

 

I fear brass There are only a few places they put it and none are good. I would say with knocking and brass it would be the wrist pin/piston bushings. This is only a partially educated guess so take it for whats it worth. At least you have the head off and it would be easy to pop the slugs up and check them out, except for the pan in the road. Good luck!

 

Oh Jesus, I wonder how many of us did not do the extra dowel pin? I know I didn't. Rob, do you think that was the cause? Jay

 

Dude I don't know? I have two issues, a bad noise and broken damper bolts.

If you can follow the instructions

 

Super sorry to hear that. Good luck on the tear down. Jay

 

Hate it for ya man. I am glad to have the reminder on the fluidampr though.

 

Have you ever done oil analysis on the engine?

 

thanks, for the info. gotta make a phone call tomorrow.

 

That sucks Rob, I hope the repair isn't too spendy, but I know the rig will come back faster and stronger once you are done.

 

Wow, you dont mess around. I just heard about your problem Sat from Nate. I will check the stix when they arrive.

Yep, high RPM can snap the fluidamper bolts off. Seen this a few times

 

Only 2 thousand miles leads me to wonder if there is something else going on inside your engine or a pre-existing condition that might have contributed to this. No doubt a second dowel pin is a good thing to add to the fluid damper and can only help. However I doubt you ever worked your engine as hard as I have over the last 2 seasons of sled pulling at not much less power than you currently have. I have been running the Fluidampr basically since it's release to market for the Cummins/Cr application.

What install procedure did you use? Please explain.

My quick/short opinion of all this is that the damper bolts were not torqued properly to begin with. Even with 2 locating pins installed, an undertorqued damper will still fail and shear bolts and pins.

Further the instances of the bolts shearing with the fluidampr application came out of "one" diesel shop that was probably trying to follow Fluidampr's directions on installation. The directions are correct however it is hard for most to work out a 60 degree final angle when turning a bolt that is not visible to them.

On another note, I do not rule out bolt integrity as a possible cause.

It would be nice if they included new bolts with the new damper. Heck they are over 4 bills new.

 

Rob did you replace your bolts when you put on the dampner? I know you are suppose to replace anything that gets stretched by rule of thumb. I ran down to the dodge dealer (in a hurry for what I don't know) were the charged me $18 for 4 bolts (ouch) I hope its nothing major but it don't sound good.

Ron