Just got my Juice with the Attitude controller and have everything installed except for the EGT thermocouple. The installation manual shows the installation up on top of the manifold and more or less in line with cylinder #3.

I am think it would be better adjacent to the 4 bolt manifold outlet flange. This way it would see a better average of all 6 cylinders and what is going into the turbo.

Can those of you that have installed EGT thermocouples tell me your experiences and placement preferences.

 

I did mine here...

I took the inner fender well out and drilled mine with a 1/2chuck 18v dewalt it would be easier with a smaller size drill but it got the job done just fine.
ALSO there is a divider in the middle of that manifold so you have to stay to one side or the other...
the back two cylinders run hotter so thats why I did mine on that side

*****Dont forget to unbolt the turbo and cover the holes or you can do the other methods too..

 

This is the post turbo set up

 

Did mine yesterday. I put mine where 53 ****** did. I did lotsa research. I'm
pretty sure it is the most popular spot. It gives an average of the hottest 3
cylinders.

Pulled the fender like he said. I had one ROUGH day doing it. Tapping it was pure misery. Hardest part was getting tap started.

A BIG HINT: Try to rig your tap up to a 1/2" drive ratchet or larger. My manifold was like concrete! A second best would be a small pipe wrench.
I wound up cutting the ends of the tap handles down to about 2" each side
to clear the turbo when I turned. It was horrible...hands still sore today

If i would have had more time I would have made the ratchet work,somehow.
I'm convinced its the way to go.

Fender comes off easy. My directions for my gauge said use 5/16 bit & tap it. Thats for a fitting with a 1/8" NPT tap. I think thats what most of them are.
Most people I've seen wound up using a couple sizes bigger bit. I wound up with a 11/32 hole. Diesel Manor has great step by step instructions w/ pics.

Don't tap all the way thru. It may be too big if you do. Cut 3 or 4 turns & try
your fitting. It should be flush with inside manifold wall. I stopped after 4 turns on mine. I was tired of cutting & it fit good & tight. Put some anti-seize
on threads before snugging it down.

Several ways to dodge the cuttings in the turbo. Some drop turbo (Bolts next to block are hard to reach) some bore hole with engine running & tailpipe
stuffed w/ a rag to create backpressure & blow out chips (Wear goggles &
gloves if you do this) I followed Diesel Manor and used progressively larger
bits to create tiny shavings. Ithink this theory is that they are so small, whatever goes in the turbo is slow small it goes right on out when you crank up. I READ ABOUT ALL THESE METHODS AND ALL HAVE BEEN USED W/ NO PROBLEMS. If yur bit breaks or something like that & the engine is running..... . Thats what made me do it w/ the engine off. Once I started & saw how small the chips were I was much more at ease. I think there are fears & nightmares about chunks of iron going down in the turbo.
Once you finish you'll realize thats all they were...like a little boy's bad nightmare. That DOESN'T mean throw caution to the wind either.

PM me if you have any more qustions. Its a no brainer but IT CAN be one tough job.

ALSO, DON'T forget about the divider 53 ****** was talking about. You can see
it as a small depression in the casting running right down the middle of the vertical section. STAY RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE REAR HALF OF THE VERTICAL SECTION.

 

Guys thanks for the responses. I did not know there was a divider in the manifold outlet until today and that would have been bad to hit that during drilling.

I also read from an other source that instead of running the engine to create a positive pressure you could use your shop vac with the hose on the outlet and blow into the exhaust pipe. This creates pressure but with no fear of the turbo turning if the bit breaks. What do you think of that option?

Can anyone explain why the back cylinders are hotter on the Cummins?

 

They are further from the fan... most engines run a little hot on the back side... just plain gets hotter back there than up front with the fan and fresh air.

 

tons of guys have done the blocked exhaust trick but it was to scary for me so I pulled the turbo down a littile covered the holes AND used a shop vac to suck out what was falling...

BTW Tap fluid/cutting fluid is a life saver when tapping

 

I drilled mine(second one, for the autometer guage) where 53 ****** did, and I will say, it was (for me anyway) 10 times easier than when I drilled the probe for the attitude on top of the manifold, near the hump.

The bottom location I was drilled/tapped, done with in 15minutes...
(remove the fender liner if you have one) and its real easy.


I didnt remove the turbo, or drop it down/block it off on either one, no problems. Just step up the bits slowly(small shavings), and vaccuumed it out every bit change.

WD40 worked great, just a little squirt, tap a 1/2 turn, back off 1/4, and keep on going, pull it out every 2-3 turns and clean off the crud and go back to it.