DRC axle truss.. where can i buy one?
#18
You could weld the truss to the axle tubes, but you might run into problems when you get to the pumpkin. Its a pain to weld cold rolled/hot rolled steel to cast. I thought I heard that Jason even prefers to weld the truss with the axle on a bench outside the truck.
I want one, especially for future plans.
I want one, especially for future plans.
#20
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#21
Its not the wire, per se. Its the pre- and post- heating that can make or break your welds. Its hard to heat up an axle located in the truck (especially with oil in it) up to 400 degrees and keep it there while welding it. After welding, you need to let the welds and steel cool slowly- usually by throwing some insulation blankets around it and occasionally applying a little heat.
If you know how to stick weld, 7018 welding rod works really well. I think the Fab Shops are welding the truss's with MIG, I dont know if they are doing anything different with their wire choice.
This is just my experience with cast steel and mild carbon steel. I would like to hear from someone who has actually installed and tested the truss.... Anyone know for sure?
If you know how to stick weld, 7018 welding rod works really well. I think the Fab Shops are welding the truss's with MIG, I dont know if they are doing anything different with their wire choice.
This is just my experience with cast steel and mild carbon steel. I would like to hear from someone who has actually installed and tested the truss.... Anyone know for sure?
#22
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A Dodge Cummins 10 ft in the air? whew...
I'll sign up for the video too.
I remember getting my old '72 Mach 1 a couple of feet in the air a long long time ago. The "crunch and sparks" during the landing were the least of my worries.... It was similar to that old "hold my beer and watch...."
I'll sign up for the video too.
I remember getting my old '72 Mach 1 a couple of feet in the air a long long time ago. The "crunch and sparks" during the landing were the least of my worries.... It was similar to that old "hold my beer and watch...."
#23
[quote]"I remember getting my old '72 Mach 1 a couple of feet in the air a long long time ago"[quote]
And they say life immitates art... watch Bullit much as a kid?
Where's Bob4x4? He's got a library of videos of him and his posse jumping their trucks all over So Cal!!!
And they say life immitates art... watch Bullit much as a kid?
Where's Bob4x4? He's got a library of videos of him and his posse jumping their trucks all over So Cal!!!
#24
you need to use nickel rod for welding cast with a stick welder...I have never heard of a mig wire that is for welding to cast???
people who weld to it with mig usually just burn it in REALLY hot. I always make sure to have a brace or something welded to the non cast part of the axle.
I would not trust anything that was just welded to cast...especially if your jumping it I speak from experience I mig welded a truss on my jeep to the cast pumpkin and it popped the weld on the test flex!!
stick is best but pre-heat and post heating is even better...just not very piratical for most
just my .02
people who weld to it with mig usually just burn it in REALLY hot. I always make sure to have a brace or something welded to the non cast part of the axle.
I would not trust anything that was just welded to cast...especially if your jumping it I speak from experience I mig welded a truss on my jeep to the cast pumpkin and it popped the weld on the test flex!!
stick is best but pre-heat and post heating is even better...just not very piratical for most
just my .02
#25
I thought the pumpkin was cast steel. If its cast steel, you can use above methods....
But maybe its cast iron?? Nodular iron? Then yeah your right, a nickel filler would be needed, also with pre/post heat. You can mig weld nodular iron with ER70S-6 wire. BUT: The heat is the key!!!
But maybe its cast iron?? Nodular iron? Then yeah your right, a nickel filler would be needed, also with pre/post heat. You can mig weld nodular iron with ER70S-6 wire. BUT: The heat is the key!!!
#27
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You do need one, I bent my front axle housing on the first trip to the Silver lake Sand dunes in Michigan. The dealer had a hard tme figuring out why the front spiders gears kept getting torn up. I got a call from them asking if I was ever jumping my truck. I just told them "I didn't do anything that my top of the line 45k truck shouldn't handle". They replaced it under warranty. I found out from DRC that the front diff is a known weak point for serious off roading. I thought they Quouted me around $800 for laser cut steel parts that you weld onto your axle tubes and center section. Have fun, Ten feet in the air sounds cool.
#28
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The front end of my truck has never left the ground and some how the axle is bent right at the tube into the pumpkin.
#29
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Its not the wire, per se. Its the pre- and post- heating that can make or break your welds. Its hard to heat up an axle located in the truck (especially with oil in it) up to 400 degrees and keep it there while welding it. After welding, you need to let the welds and steel cool slowly- usually by throwing some insulation blankets around it and occasionally applying a little heat.
If you know how to stick weld, 7018 welding rod works really well. I think the Fab Shops are welding the truss's with MIG, I dont know if they are doing anything different with their wire choice.
This is just my experience with cast steel and mild carbon steel. I would like to hear from someone who has actually installed and tested the truss.... Anyone know for sure?
If you know how to stick weld, 7018 welding rod works really well. I think the Fab Shops are welding the truss's with MIG, I dont know if they are doing anything different with their wire choice.
This is just my experience with cast steel and mild carbon steel. I would like to hear from someone who has actually installed and tested the truss.... Anyone know for sure?
You can get away with using .045 T9 mig wire with blue sheild 8 gas from Air Liquide for cast steels.
Nick.