3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (5.9L Only) Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for third generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories. THIS IS FOR THE 5.9L ONLY!

DRC axle truss.. where can i buy one?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-01-2007, 03:34 PM
  #16  
Banned
 
Luvnacumns's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Twin Falls, Idaho
Posts: 5,194
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Cquestad, Check Pm's... Thanks Shane
Old 04-01-2007, 11:45 PM
  #17  
Registered User
 
gatf4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Lindenhurst IL
Posts: 372
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Could have been $600, but either way, to much for me to spend.
Old 04-26-2007, 09:28 AM
  #18  
Registered User
 
Halibrand's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
You could weld the truss to the axle tubes, but you might run into problems when you get to the pumpkin. Its a pain to weld cold rolled/hot rolled steel to cast. I thought I heard that Jason even prefers to weld the truss with the axle on a bench outside the truck.

I want one, especially for future plans.
Old 04-26-2007, 09:49 AM
  #19  
Registered User
 
cquestad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 5,540
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
It is not that hard...just use the right wire.
Old 04-26-2007, 09:55 AM
  #20  
Registered User
 
Dan Marino's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 874
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by cquestad
It is not that hard...just use the right wire.
So what is the right wire?? Going to be doing some reworking on the pumpkin where the grinding came through for locker.... and I need a better solution to patching this up than I had last time.
Old 04-26-2007, 10:07 AM
  #21  
Registered User
 
Halibrand's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Its not the wire, per se. Its the pre- and post- heating that can make or break your welds. Its hard to heat up an axle located in the truck (especially with oil in it) up to 400 degrees and keep it there while welding it. After welding, you need to let the welds and steel cool slowly- usually by throwing some insulation blankets around it and occasionally applying a little heat.

If you know how to stick weld, 7018 welding rod works really well. I think the Fab Shops are welding the truss's with MIG, I dont know if they are doing anything different with their wire choice.

This is just my experience with cast steel and mild carbon steel. I would like to hear from someone who has actually installed and tested the truss.... Anyone know for sure?
Old 04-26-2007, 10:24 AM
  #22  
Registered User
 
bulabula's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Eastern & Western Merryland
Posts: 2,239
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
A Dodge Cummins 10 ft in the air? whew...

I'll sign up for the video too.

I remember getting my old '72 Mach 1 a couple of feet in the air a long long time ago. The "crunch and sparks" during the landing were the least of my worries.... It was similar to that old "hold my beer and watch...."
Old 04-26-2007, 10:37 AM
  #23  
Registered User
 
Halibrand's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
[quote]"I remember getting my old '72 Mach 1 a couple of feet in the air a long long time ago"[quote]

And they say life immitates art... watch Bullit much as a kid?


Where's Bob4x4? He's got a library of videos of him and his posse jumping their trucks all over So Cal!!!
Old 04-26-2007, 10:47 AM
  #24  
Registered User
 
53 willys's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Utah
Posts: 6,259
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
you need to use nickel rod for welding cast with a stick welder...I have never heard of a mig wire that is for welding to cast???
people who weld to it with mig usually just burn it in REALLY hot. I always make sure to have a brace or something welded to the non cast part of the axle.
I would not trust anything that was just welded to cast...especially if your jumping it I speak from experience I mig welded a truss on my jeep to the cast pumpkin and it popped the weld on the test flex!!
stick is best but pre-heat and post heating is even better...just not very piratical for most
just my .02
Old 04-26-2007, 11:05 AM
  #25  
Registered User
 
Halibrand's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I thought the pumpkin was cast steel. If its cast steel, you can use above methods....

But maybe its cast iron?? Nodular iron? Then yeah your right, a nickel filler would be needed, also with pre/post heat. You can mig weld nodular iron with ER70S-6 wire. BUT: The heat is the key!!!
Old 04-26-2007, 11:35 AM
  #26  
Registered User
 
cquestad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 5,540
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
It is cast steel...and 7018 wire takes just fine. I have never welded to one with oil in it...

I would do it while it is drained.
Old 05-11-2007, 08:15 PM
  #27  
Registered User
 
PG4x4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Prince George, BC
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by gatf4
You do need one, I bent my front axle housing on the first trip to the Silver lake Sand dunes in Michigan. The dealer had a hard tme figuring out why the front spiders gears kept getting torn up. I got a call from them asking if I was ever jumping my truck. I just told them "I didn't do anything that my top of the line 45k truck shouldn't handle". They replaced it under warranty. I found out from DRC that the front diff is a known weak point for serious off roading. I thought they Quouted me around $800 for laser cut steel parts that you weld onto your axle tubes and center section. Have fun, Ten feet in the air sounds cool.
What dealer do u goto? The front end of my truck has never left the ground and some how the axle is bent right at the tube into the pumpkin. The wont warrenty it and told me it will be 4k to fix it. I was thinking about getting an alignment shop to try and straighten it and reinforce it.
Old 01-28-2008, 11:17 PM
  #28  
Registered User
 
Big J's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Toronto, On
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
The front end of my truck has never left the ground and some how the axle is bent right at the tube into the pumpkin.
Same here. my tires are almost gone from the severe change in camber. I was going to go to a wreckers and find a new one, then reinforce it so it doesnt happen again. Is there any bolt-on trusses for the front end? Preferably above the axle versions?
Old 01-28-2008, 11:45 PM
  #29  
Registered User
 
Little03's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Fort St John B.C
Posts: 348
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Halibrand
Its not the wire, per se. Its the pre- and post- heating that can make or break your welds. Its hard to heat up an axle located in the truck (especially with oil in it) up to 400 degrees and keep it there while welding it. After welding, you need to let the welds and steel cool slowly- usually by throwing some insulation blankets around it and occasionally applying a little heat.

If you know how to stick weld, 7018 welding rod works really well. I think the Fab Shops are welding the truss's with MIG, I dont know if they are doing anything different with their wire choice.

This is just my experience with cast steel and mild carbon steel. I would like to hear from someone who has actually installed and tested the truss.... Anyone know for sure?

You can get away with using .045 T9 mig wire with blue sheild 8 gas from Air Liquide for cast steels.

Nick.
Old 01-29-2008, 10:40 AM
  #30  
Registered User
 
lowboy18011's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 154
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Last time I looked at Lorenz Industry's web site he was advertising a bolt on axle truss.


Quick Reply: DRC axle truss.. where can i buy one?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:34 PM.