DIY CP3 mod
03-14-2007, 05:32 PM
#122
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if u cut the bottom off completely, then doesnt the spring have to push further to get the base of the triangle open because the valve is shorter? so in a sense i would believe ur getting less fuel than b4. and thats y ur getting better mpg. because if anything this mod would worsen mpg because it allows the use of more fuel in the same amount of time.
idk maybe i have something confused
idk maybe i have something confused
03-14-2007, 07:53 PM
#123
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OOOOOO no its getting more fuel!!!!!! Flat foot it from a take off and its a smog cloud never done it befor. Fuel is there!! The spring pushes the valve open. The triangle points up so the valve pushes it closed. More pedal = more spring pressure and less pressure from the valve.
03-17-2007, 09:28 PM
#124
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today i did my CP3 mod.
tools needed to remove the pump parts are, T25 for the 3 FCA bolts. T30 for the 4 gear pump bolts. took about 1 1/2 hours.
I couldnt believe how small the valve is. less than 1/2" dia and 1"long. the triangles are tiny. I used some double side tape to hold some small pieces of maple to the vise jaws and to cushion the valve during modifications. i cut the 1st triangle just fine, and during deburring, i broke the bottom off. I was not happy until I remembered Marks post about cutting the entire bottom off. So i filed things smooth and reinstalled it. If it causes problems, I'll buy another.
I drilled the inlet port to 0.160", the outlet port was already slightly larger than .160. What surprised me was there was no gasket between the gear pump housing and cover plate. just the 2 machined surfaces as the seal.
So the results of the mod are good. THe SOP meter tells me there is more power. THe black smoke rolling out the pipe tells me there is definately more fuel. The turbo lights much quicker. I am happy with it, and will give some dyno results after the BD day in a month. It is the only mode i have done since I dyno'd last time.
tools needed to remove the pump parts are, T25 for the 3 FCA bolts. T30 for the 4 gear pump bolts. took about 1 1/2 hours.
I couldnt believe how small the valve is. less than 1/2" dia and 1"long. the triangles are tiny. I used some double side tape to hold some small pieces of maple to the vise jaws and to cushion the valve during modifications. i cut the 1st triangle just fine, and during deburring, i broke the bottom off. I was not happy until I remembered Marks post about cutting the entire bottom off. So i filed things smooth and reinstalled it. If it causes problems, I'll buy another.
I drilled the inlet port to 0.160", the outlet port was already slightly larger than .160. What surprised me was there was no gasket between the gear pump housing and cover plate. just the 2 machined surfaces as the seal.
So the results of the mod are good. THe SOP meter tells me there is more power. THe black smoke rolling out the pipe tells me there is definately more fuel. The turbo lights much quicker. I am happy with it, and will give some dyno results after the BD day in a month. It is the only mode i have done since I dyno'd last time.
03-17-2007, 09:49 PM
#125
today i did my CP3 mod.
tools needed to remove the pump parts are, T25 for the 3 FCA bolts. T30 for the 4 gear pump bolts. took about 1 1/2 hours.
I couldnt believe how small the valve is. less than 1/2" dia and 1"long. the triangles are tiny. I used some double side tape to hold some small pieces of maple to the vise jaws and to cushion the valve during modifications. i cut the 1st triangle just fine, and during deburring, i broke the bottom off. I was not happy until I remembered Marks post about cutting the entire bottom off. So i filed things smooth and reinstalled it. If it causes problems, I'll buy another.
I drilled the inlet port to 0.160", the outlet port was already slightly larger than .160. What surprised me was there was no gasket between the gear pump housing and cover plate. just the 2 machined surfaces as the seal.
So the results of the mod are good. THe SOP meter tells me there is more power. THe black smoke rolling out the pipe tells me there is definately more fuel. The turbo lights much quicker. I am happy with it, and will give some dyno results after the BD day in a month. It is the only mode i have done since I dyno'd last time.
tools needed to remove the pump parts are, T25 for the 3 FCA bolts. T30 for the 4 gear pump bolts. took about 1 1/2 hours.
I couldnt believe how small the valve is. less than 1/2" dia and 1"long. the triangles are tiny. I used some double side tape to hold some small pieces of maple to the vise jaws and to cushion the valve during modifications. i cut the 1st triangle just fine, and during deburring, i broke the bottom off. I was not happy until I remembered Marks post about cutting the entire bottom off. So i filed things smooth and reinstalled it. If it causes problems, I'll buy another.
I drilled the inlet port to 0.160", the outlet port was already slightly larger than .160. What surprised me was there was no gasket between the gear pump housing and cover plate. just the 2 machined surfaces as the seal.
So the results of the mod are good. THe SOP meter tells me there is more power. THe black smoke rolling out the pipe tells me there is definately more fuel. The turbo lights much quicker. I am happy with it, and will give some dyno results after the BD day in a month. It is the only mode i have done since I dyno'd last time.
please post your dyno when you do!
thanks for the report
03-17-2007, 10:38 PM
#127
03-17-2007, 11:43 PM
#129
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Doing a tone ring mod and this might help out a stock truck quite a bit. Ive yet to do mine but it sounds like it does add some to the butt o meter. I see you havent done the tone ring mod and that you would love to increase mileage. Just take half a day and do both.
03-17-2007, 11:56 PM
#130
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Will the Rocktech basically do the same thing as the tone ring mod? Been thinking about it for 2 reasons 1) better mileage and fairly cheap, 2) keep a spare crank sensor in the box, in case ? hangs out wide open in the front and all?
03-17-2007, 11:57 PM
#131
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tone ring mod is FREE and takes about 20 minutes. CP3 is FREE and takes about 90 minutes. Dont know how much a stock truck would see or even any benefit at all from a cp3 mod.
03-18-2007, 12:06 AM
#133
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Chris told me that this mod should let me use one more setting on the tst. But from what rich said it adds quite a bit of low end. I was expecting it to only help the top end. Maybe i read something wrong.
03-18-2007, 01:21 PM
#135
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mine didnt want to come out either, i was ruining the id of the plug. but since i was going to drill it out, i quit worrying about it. just use the short end of an allen wrench and apply some force. the plug is only 1/8" thick, so dont stick the wrench in too far.
the valve wall is only about 0.050" thick in the triangle area. that is how i broke the bottom of mine off when filing it smooth. i had some choice words, but it works fine.
if you guys get stuck or arent getting a quick enough reply here, call me. 360 649 0781
chris
the valve wall is only about 0.050" thick in the triangle area. that is how i broke the bottom of mine off when filing it smooth. i had some choice words, but it works fine.
if you guys get stuck or arent getting a quick enough reply here, call me. 360 649 0781
chris