wap

I took the sample after driving the truck about 20 minutes so it was operating temp and it was middle of drain.

I may just go ahead and order the amsoil kit next time I order my oil and pull a sample (not the oil) at 5k and see what kinda diff it makes vs stock filtration and amsoil.

If the problem persists and or gets worse, yours truely will be lookin for an 06 to replace the 05.

Thanks again for all the help.

kuhkuhkyle

Wap: I'd send off another sample after 5000 and see where your iron levels are at. With it slowly getting to a growing number, i'd definitely keep checking on it. I haven't seen many 5.9's with iron levels that high. The only other time I've seen iron levels that high is on a loader at work running one of our 16V4000's. But the constant 1900 rpm idle and the in and out of load factor is really hard on bearings and rings. Since we're running a sputter bearing with part iron to absorb some of the load, we see higher levels. Keep us posted.

DBLR

Its sad that RP does not list the TBN for there diesel oil or much of anything else about there oil.

wap

Well I would like to check this oil at 5k, change it and check it again, to kinda see if there is any change from RP to amsoil, then amsoil to amsoil, but i think on my next change I will be installin a bypass filter reguardless.


Now I havent done much research on bypass systems but should that help with the iron level???

trik396

Nope.... but it will help keep damaging smaller particles from hurting your bearings etc. In theory, I guess this may help with your iron count, but it won't filter out the iron as it is extremely tiny particles in the ppm range.
So I guess.. I just don't really know...

sometimes I should think a little harder before I type...

Minwy

Another prime candidate to keep in mind for high iron wear is the timing gears. The cam is another one to keep in mind. The timing gears I believe are just splash lubed, the oil thickening is going to make that process less efficient and a possible cause for the slightly higher iron wear. I would drop the high dollar-long mileage oil and use a cheaper oil and change it more often and see if that brings the wear numbers down.

drolex

Do any of you know anything about using an inline cetrifuge to filter your oil? I believe there are kits available for purchase somewhere. I think it can work very well. It should keep your oil much cleaner, so for those that want to run their oil a little longer, I guess they can, and for those who want their stuff to last a long time, you can still change your oil at regular times and your stuff should last much longer.

Also, I read in this thread that big blue said the Mobile One filter is very good and that is good news for me, because I just finished an oil change 20 minutes ago and I am using that filter for the first time.

wap

That is a good idea but I like to run synthetic for the higher flash point. Though feel a higher grade sythetic is a better oil, the moin reason I run it is simply to for the flash point.

I looked last night and I have almost 4k on the oil in there now. So what I intent to do is order a case of amsoil (not sure what kind yet, the 15/40 or the HDD 5/30) and a bypass filter kit from amsoil. No, the bypass may not help get the iron down but cleaner oil is better oil and I really do think is SHOULD help with the iron. I will definately start another thread on how this oil turns out and also may do a write up on the bypass kit.

trik396

I should be getting my analysis back from Blackstone any day now. This was with Schaeffers9000 5w40 synthetic and TorcoMPZ additive. I feel Schaeffers is one of the best synthetics out there right now... and costs much less than Amsoil. JMHO.

wap

Keep us posted on how your sample turns out

trik396

I should have sent out the sample via UPS as it always arrives in a day or two. I sent it out last Monday. Of course I used USPS this time... and it still hasn't gotten there. Someday I'll learn.

dogger

From you auto-signature you are running 3 versions of ECM modifications, TST, MP-8, & Smarty, which is probably putting a lot of fuel into the cylinders. Add to that you mention "drive like a grandpa", probably should have said drive like a grandma as my grandpa drove like a scalded ape. That big turbo not spooling up adequately for the fuel to the engine when not running hard doesn't help either. Definitely go with a bypass filter as that will help with the soot. Change your filter more often even though you do not change the oil as there is a good possibly that the main filter due to the high soot is plugging up and bypassing the filter element. Hope things settle down to more reasonable numbers.

L8r,........dogger

DBLR

You say Schaeffer's 9000 is one of the best oil out right now, but you also say you use an oil additive TorcoMPZ. I guess I don't get it, if the oil is so good why do you add an oil additive to it or does the additive add what the oil lacks?

trik396

Because I'm an excessive person...

And because I feel I cannot do enough to protect my engine from the ravages of extreme power...

And because I have a virgin analysis of the Schaeffers9000, so I can't wait to see what the Torco stuff added to the mix since they don't tell exactly what's in the MPZ except for moly, zinc, and phos... I just want to know how much of a slug it provides.

I am trying to find the ultimate protection for my Cummins. I think this combination might be close. I've done too much reading on the subject. It's that excessive thing again.

I will post results.

cquestad

I don't think that one looks to bad...change the oil more often.