controlling 3-4 shift in tow/haul
#1
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controlling 3-4 shift in tow/haul
I have read the thead on the torque conveter lock switch but I don't know if that will do what I what.
I know in tow/haul it shifts 3 times, 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 or t/c lock.
I want to be able to control 3-4 or t/c lock, is this possible?
I know in tow/haul it shifts 3 times, 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 or t/c lock.
I want to be able to control 3-4 or t/c lock, is this possible?
#3
My 06 shifts like this is T/H 1-2,2-3,TC Lock,3-4(feels like it shifts with the TC locked but I dont know it does shift harder than the other shifts no T/H it shifts 1-2,2-3,3-4,TC Lock.In T/H the TC locks at about 35mph and not it T/H it locks at about 45mph.These are under normal driving conditions.
#4
Lockup is pulsed off on the 3-4 shift on all these trucks, no locked shifts. The TH mode ramps the TV pressure higher so the shifts are faster and firmer plus the lockup strategy is more aggressive.
Not quite sure what the OP is wanting to do yet or what year truck he has so its hard to tell.
Not quite sure what the OP is wanting to do yet or what year truck he has so its hard to tell.
#7
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#9
The OE solenoid is powered by 12 volts thru the harness but not normally grounded. Activation is accomplished by the ECU grounding the lockup sense wire.
What you want to do is take the OE lockup solenoid out of the equation and let the ECU ground the dummy solenoid. The ECU monitors the circuit for resistance between 5 ohms and 100 ohms and will throw codes and go to limp mode if it doesn't like what it sees. Plus, the ECU will not take the 30 amp load the solenoid draws if you try to wire directly to it. You need the spare solenoid or a resistor to cut the load.
You need something like a 3-way switch like what is used on residential lighting to have 2 sources to turn on a light. The switch needs to have two seperate input circuits and a common pole, or, a switch that has 2 circuits and it switches between them when flipped.
What you want to do is take the OE lockup solenoid out of the equation and let the ECU ground the dummy solenoid. The ECU monitors the circuit for resistance between 5 ohms and 100 ohms and will throw codes and go to limp mode if it doesn't like what it sees. Plus, the ECU will not take the 30 amp load the solenoid draws if you try to wire directly to it. You need the spare solenoid or a resistor to cut the load.
You need something like a 3-way switch like what is used on residential lighting to have 2 sources to turn on a light. The switch needs to have two seperate input circuits and a common pole, or, a switch that has 2 circuits and it switches between them when flipped.
#12
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