compound turbo setup
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#62
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Hi guys
I am looking at getting a compound turbo setup. The truck will be used for towing heavy I want to keep my egts under control, and have all the power I need any given rpm at instantly(or pretty close to it)
I want setup that will provide very fast spoolup at any rpm and still be able to provide enough air for 700hp.
which setup/turbo sizes would you recomend?
thanks,
Andrew
I am looking at getting a compound turbo setup. The truck will be used for towing heavy I want to keep my egts under control, and have all the power I need any given rpm at instantly(or pretty close to it)
I want setup that will provide very fast spoolup at any rpm and still be able to provide enough air for 700hp.
which setup/turbo sizes would you recomend?
thanks,
Andrew
You are an idiot!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#66
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Addenda to my post #55 re: oil temps/flow/viscosity.
Keep in mind that diesel engines that work for a living at the power levels a bombed 5.9 can make usually have oil capacities 3-4 times greater.
Yes, you can make 450hp from a 5.9, and you can even tow with all the stuff on kill. But an ISX making those same power levels will have about 1200# more cast iron, and 8 more gallons of oil to spread the heat throughout the engine, a water pump flowing 3 times what the 5.9 does, and it will be installed in a truck with a far larger radiator.
Working an engine hard at elevator power levels-- FAR above the design-- can help you find the limits in a way you might regret.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
BTW-- I was talking to a guy at work and he was saying that the best engine Cummins ever made for reliability was that last years (01-02?) of the N14, especially the 375hp rating. Cummins pays just pennies per engine in warranty claims a year-- this thing is bulletproof. I suspect 14L making a mere 375 is partly why. How do you think that compares to a 5.9 making the same power level? Remember, you're making the same amount of heat in both cases-- the question is how you are managing it.
Sorry so long.
Keep in mind that diesel engines that work for a living at the power levels a bombed 5.9 can make usually have oil capacities 3-4 times greater.
Yes, you can make 450hp from a 5.9, and you can even tow with all the stuff on kill. But an ISX making those same power levels will have about 1200# more cast iron, and 8 more gallons of oil to spread the heat throughout the engine, a water pump flowing 3 times what the 5.9 does, and it will be installed in a truck with a far larger radiator.
Working an engine hard at elevator power levels-- FAR above the design-- can help you find the limits in a way you might regret.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
BTW-- I was talking to a guy at work and he was saying that the best engine Cummins ever made for reliability was that last years (01-02?) of the N14, especially the 375hp rating. Cummins pays just pennies per engine in warranty claims a year-- this thing is bulletproof. I suspect 14L making a mere 375 is partly why. How do you think that compares to a 5.9 making the same power level? Remember, you're making the same amount of heat in both cases-- the question is how you are managing it.
Sorry so long.
#67
Registered User
Addenda to my post #55 re: oil temps/flow/viscosity.
Keep in mind that diesel engines that work for a living at the power levels a bombed 5.9 can make usually have oil capacities 3-4 times greater.
Yes, you can make 450hp from a 5.9, and you can even tow with all the stuff on kill. But an ISX making those same power levels will have about 1200# more cast iron, and 8 more gallons of oil to spread the heat throughout the engine, a water pump flowing 3 times what the 5.9 does, and it will be installed in a truck with a far larger radiator.
Working an engine hard at elevator power levels-- FAR above the design-- can help you find the limits in a way you might regret.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
BTW-- I was talking to a guy at work and he was saying that the best engine Cummins ever made for reliability was that last years (01-02?) of the N14, especially the 375hp rating. Cummins pays just pennies per engine in warranty claims a year-- this thing is bulletproof. I suspect 14L making a mere 375 is partly why. How do you think that compares to a 5.9 making the same power level? Remember, you're making the same amount of heat in both cases-- the question is how you are managing it.
Sorry so long.
Keep in mind that diesel engines that work for a living at the power levels a bombed 5.9 can make usually have oil capacities 3-4 times greater.
Yes, you can make 450hp from a 5.9, and you can even tow with all the stuff on kill. But an ISX making those same power levels will have about 1200# more cast iron, and 8 more gallons of oil to spread the heat throughout the engine, a water pump flowing 3 times what the 5.9 does, and it will be installed in a truck with a far larger radiator.
Working an engine hard at elevator power levels-- FAR above the design-- can help you find the limits in a way you might regret.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
BTW-- I was talking to a guy at work and he was saying that the best engine Cummins ever made for reliability was that last years (01-02?) of the N14, especially the 375hp rating. Cummins pays just pennies per engine in warranty claims a year-- this thing is bulletproof. I suspect 14L making a mere 375 is partly why. How do you think that compares to a 5.9 making the same power level? Remember, you're making the same amount of heat in both cases-- the question is how you are managing it.
Sorry so long.
Excellent post Justin. But do you have a comment about bombers running their 5.9s at high (relatively) horsepower with their settings on kill....but light footing it when towing?
Even though, let's say in my case and according to the dyno, my engine is capable of making 532hp to the rear wheels.............it would only be making a fraction of that at 1/4 throttle. Therefore the heat would not be out of spec or overstressing it...correct?
My point is.......if you are disciplined enough to drive it sanely while towing............why detune?
..
#68
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Well, it all depends on how well you can control things, and on the load being controlled.
If someone is hopping up their truck because they want to tow double their rated weight, then it will go badly for them, imo.
But I think you could tow with things cranked up, if you stuck to light loads and sane speeds and downshifted early and often to protect the engine from really heavy loads. I'd also recommend that any devices which advance the timing be either turned off or minimized. A little timing is good-- but not much.
Load is ultimately the governing factor. You could tow with 800hp if it's a little tagalong U-haul.
For truly heavy hauling, I'd recommend using no more than 375hp. If you can pull the load, but need to use 400hp or so to do it, then you're overworking things. Back off and/or downshift.
JMO
If someone is hopping up their truck because they want to tow double their rated weight, then it will go badly for them, imo.
But I think you could tow with things cranked up, if you stuck to light loads and sane speeds and downshifted early and often to protect the engine from really heavy loads. I'd also recommend that any devices which advance the timing be either turned off or minimized. A little timing is good-- but not much.
Load is ultimately the governing factor. You could tow with 800hp if it's a little tagalong U-haul.
For truly heavy hauling, I'd recommend using no more than 375hp. If you can pull the load, but need to use 400hp or so to do it, then you're overworking things. Back off and/or downshift.
JMO
#71
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NOt much for pumps, but a custom rad can be had for enough $$ from fluidyne or Ron Davis.
Theoretically, the electic fans are shallow enough that maybe a thicker radiator could be mounted?
With the OEM fan, I don't think you have much room for a bigger rad. Better is your only choice (and it's not going to be a radical improvement).
jmo
Theoretically, the electic fans are shallow enough that maybe a thicker radiator could be mounted?
With the OEM fan, I don't think you have much room for a bigger rad. Better is your only choice (and it's not going to be a radical improvement).
jmo
#72
Hay Justin I changed my 12v to horton elec. clutch fan the blade is no longer available but was able to go with a cut down 10 blade it pulls 1/2 again as much as the oem.And you are the first one to talk about oil flow drop when adding compounds,when I put mine on I asked on this form if any one else had this problem and I got no replies.I also went to 5-40 syn and a amsoil bmk 13 bypass remote.when it got up to temp on a hot day oil pressure would drop bad. So I made a bypass like the bmk 11 and put 15-40 back in and its happy again.My primary is a T74 and it has the restrictor in it.I do still wonder what the oil pump is rated at.
#73
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Ummmmm....
Delo 400 is withing 5 or 7 degrees of the BEST synthetic's flash point.
Hot reasons are not worth it. Maybe one pan of it in the winter to enjoy quicker lubrication.
Delo 400 is withing 5 or 7 degrees of the BEST synthetic's flash point.
Hot reasons are not worth it. Maybe one pan of it in the winter to enjoy quicker lubrication.
#74