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cheapest best head studs?

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Old 02-08-2009, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by CoolumConst
When do you need the 625 vs the 12mm studs?
Id start using 625 from around 750hp and up, b/c thats when it seems guys (not all) are starting to pop the MLS gasket and ARP 2000
Old 02-08-2009, 06:02 PM
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you dont need 625 studs ever its all hype, you look at some of the huge names in pulling "off constantly" they run h11s and if you, check out youtube you can see the drive shaft breaking going over 100 pounds boost and no issues. Any good stud will work as long as you tourque them right, and go back and retourque again after a few hot cycles. call around to a few shops like haisley schieds and talk to them they build motors in the 1800hp and can set you up with what you need. and im sure i will get flak for saying they are hype but for a street driven truck they are something you will never need.
Old 02-10-2009, 09:38 AM
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I went with ARP's have heard of many A-1's failing before you even get to the last torque sequence.
I also ran for a year at 680hp with stock headbolts never even been retorqued. Maybe it was luck but boost pressures were never over 55psi.
Old 02-10-2009, 01:18 PM
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You should see the pile of broken ARPs at my local shop, I went w/ A1s because they've had less of them fail and guess what>>>>>>>>>
cheapest best head studs?-head-stud.jpg

Go w/ 625s or A1 H-11s or don't bother. Both companies have the exact same product w/ different coatings.
Old 02-10-2009, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by tcr
You should see the pile of broken ARPs at my local shop, I went w/ A1s because they've had less of them fail and guess what>>>>>>>>>
Attachment 26199

Go w/ 625s or A1 H-11s or don't bother. Both companies have the exact same product w/ different coatings.
BS, those arent ARP 2000's those are A1's, Id get your studs right before you bash ARP

And Id love to see a pic of this pile, b/c Im not believing it.
Old 02-10-2009, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Hintz
BS, those arent ARP 2000's those are A1's, Id get your studs right before you bash ARP

And Id love to see a pic of this pile, b/c Im not believing it.
No shi! brainiac, it is the cheaper A1!!! I SAID I went w/ the A1s; out of the cheapos, 2 stretched and 1 broke; hence the reason I went w/ the H11s. You should have seen the pile of black studs
Old 02-10-2009, 05:42 PM
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Maybe you need to reread my post, I'm bashing the cheaper of BOTH companies.
Old 02-10-2009, 05:56 PM
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man what are you doing to snap a stud lol
Old 02-10-2009, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by tcr
No shi! brainiac, it is the cheaper A1!!! I SAID I went w/ the A1s; out of the cheapos, 2 stretched and 1 broke; hence the reason I went w/ the H11s. You should have seen the pile of black studs
, my bad im retarded. But Id still black to see the pile of black ones, b/c Ive only ever heard of one breaking and thats b/c it was torqued past spec.
Old 02-10-2009, 06:48 PM
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No, my bad, maybe I need to be more clear. I purchased the cheaper A1 studs based on a recommendation and due to about 7-8 damaged(broke, stretched, thread damaged ARPs). We got most of them installed and two stretched at under 125 ft lbs, but the amazing thing is, the stud that broke, broke w/ a digital Snap-on tq wrench set at 100 ft lbs, and it didn't get there before it broke. My point was, I went the cheaper route and this is what happened due to either poor quality control, bad material, whatever, I'm not sure, but I can tell you the A1 H11s seemed worth every penny more and I would recommend them from what I've seen w/ my own eyes. I would also not hesitate to recommend the people behind my purchase who took very good care of us through the entire purchase, and they are the good people at Haisley!!
Old 02-10-2009, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Hintz
, my bad im retarded. But Id still black to see the pile of black ones, b/c Ive only ever heard of one breaking and thats b/c it was torqued past spec.
I might go back real soon and I'll snap some pics for you, but I don't want to bash anymore than I already have.
Old 02-10-2009, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by tcr
I might go back real soon and I'll snap some pics for you, but I don't want to bash anymore than I already have.
Man..You loose fail in what you buy. Hell I have a NEW set of the black ARP's that I know don't know if they can be trusted.............BTW their still in the box. What does ARP say about them breaking BEFORE 125flbs of torque? And here we go... Its just a question...Are we being sold cheap
over sea's parts?????
Old 02-10-2009, 08:13 PM
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There are probably thousands and thousands of sets of ARPs to 10 sets of A1s that are just fine, I listened to my mechanic and went through a set of what he recommended and had a couple failures. THe bottom line is these two companies use the same type of tool steel for their studs, their prices are really close, flip a coin and pic a brand IMO. I just ended up with the better quality stud as a result of a bad batch of the cheaper set in the same brand. If your going through the trouble anyway why not spend 2-300.00 more.
Old 02-10-2009, 10:10 PM
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Carpenter is the only company I know of making stud alloys for manufacturers such as ARP & Haisley... no doubt there are differences in how the threads are formed & finished, coating, etc.

I know ARP's 625+s are the only ones I'm comfortable with taking to 160ft-lbs on a warm engine... a body could sure get hurt if one busted loose.
Old 02-11-2009, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by XLR8R
Carpenter is the only company I know of making stud alloys for manufacturers such as ARP & Haisley... no doubt there are differences in how the threads are formed & finished, coating, etc.

I know ARP's 625+s are the only ones I'm comfortable with taking to 160ft-lbs on a warm engine... a body could sure get hurt if one busted loose.
I assume when you say Haisley you mean A1. Why wouldn't you take an AI H-11 12mm to the rated specs???? I would trust a 14mm stud over any 12mm obviously but ???


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